40 banjo case damage, how much is too much?

rehpotsirhcj

rehpotsirhcj

Member
Another banjo newbie question..
I noticed when pulling my banjo apart that it has been handled roughly at some point. It has some vice marks on the gasket surfaces, and a small area of galling, maybe where a bar was used or something. Not sure what they would have been reefing on. Anyway, I’d appreciate any thoughts. Am I overthinking this, or should I be looking for a new center section?
Thanks much.
-Chris
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I wouldn’t be afraid of it as long as there aren’t any cracks. Rub a flat file over the affected areas to make sure there’s nothing protruding above the flat gasket surface.
 
I also agree, do not machine the surface, only run a file over the high spots, however, the one area that shows damage from a hammer? is likely to leak if left like that. I'd suggest some filler of some kind... Bondo, solder, whatever, followed by the file again to level it off. Also, do not run a tap through the threads, as they are meant to be tight to prevent leaks.
When setting the backlash, it's helpful to use two sets of gaskets, the first as a dummy to be sacrificed to the setup by splitting, thereby negating the complete removal/install/removal/install of the bolts for each trial. No sealer is required of the final assembly other than the thread sealer for the bolts.
 
Flat file it and use a bit of gasket sealer and you should be fine. The gaskets will probably seal it just fine (without sealer), but it would not hurt to put a bit of thin sealer on those areas. Truth be told, I use a bit of sealer on all my rear-end rebuilds - and definitely on the threads of each bolt.
 
Bored&Stroked said:
Flat file it and use a bit of gasket sealer and you should be fine. The gaskets will probably seal it just fine (without sealer), but it would not hurt to put a bit of thin sealer on those areas. Truth be told, I use a bit of sealer on all my rear-end rebuilds - and definitely on the threads of each bolt.
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x2 !
 
Due to the "quality" of previous work, make sure the pinion race hasn't spun in the banjo. That should be a pretty tight fit, should have been hard to remove. I usually use a lot of bridging and do it in my press but there is a KRW tool that removes this race.
IF you find more issues, a good banjo should be very easy to come by. Most of us have several sitting around in our shops.
 
Thanks guys, great information. Happy to hear it might be salvageable, I was already checking out shipping rates for replacements :).
I’ll soak it and look closely for cracks and then use a flat file as suggested.
Points taken also on the test vs final set of gaskets and the light use is silicone.
Thanks again, I learn something new every time I open this forum.


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I'm guilty of having way too many good useable banjo rear housings sitting around in my shop. I'm planning to make some lights/lamps out of some, but will hold on to a small quantity incase someone needs them more than I do.
 
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rehpotsirhcj said:
Thanks guys, great information. Happy to hear it might be salvageable, I was already checking out shipping rates for replacements :).
I’ll soak it and look closely for cracks and then use a flat file as suggested.
Points taken also on the test vs final set of gaskets and the light use is silicone.
Thanks again, I learn something new every time I open this forum.


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Silicone is not your friend.
 
JM 35 Sedan said:
I'm guilty of having way too many good useable banjo rear housings sitting around in my shop. I'm planning to make some lights/lamps out of some, but will hold on to a small quantity incase someone needs them more than I do.
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Lamps are overrated. :) if this goes south you should sell me one.


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all of the above is good advice. Also use the original bolts. Just clean them up with a wire brush , paint them and you are good to go.
 
rehpotsirhcj said:
So, I’m not clear on this. When I think sealer, I generally think blue rtv. Seems reasonable insurance against weeping or other small leaks. What am I missing?


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Locktite PST 592 is a good all purpose automotive thread sealant. There are others, of course, with other characteristics, this one has what you need for differential bolts, water jacket head studs, brake, oil & gas lines. All temperature, stays pliable. Also, I see no reason why this wouldn't work for the damaged spot on your diff. Importantly, I think, only on that one spot, not all over, as that would change the effective thickness of the gaskets, which are shims as much as they are gaskets.
 
rehpotsirhcj said:
Lamps are overrated. :) if this goes south you should sell me one.


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You got it! Who knows when I'll get to those lamps/lights. They've been on the "nice thing to do" list for years now :D. One has your name on it.... if/when you need it.
 
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