30 or 31? Or?

3

31atheway

Junior Member
Hello.. I am new to model A restoration.. bought what I was told was a 1931 5 window coupe. No title.. For sure it is a coupe but the year is suspect. trying to figure out what I really have. I am finding a few conflicts .. to mention a couple. ... FORD emblem on radiator shell has a blue background. Stop light switch seems to be a 30 design .. emergency brake cross shaft mount to frame design seems to be 30.. engine number indicates aug 1930 production date. But I understand engines were obviously made ahead of time or could of been swapped out later.. Body number and engine number do not match..

Engine number = *A3792643*
Body number = *A225115 * I thing there is another number to left of last * but can’t make it out .. there is a big gap between 115 and last *. Appears to be a 2 Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you..

Art
 
CC-MO, I have a 1930 Ford Coupe and it was a barn find. I am in the process of restoring it and I have found different year parts throughout the car. Back in the day I am sure many Model A owners used whatever parts they could find to save them money, so you might find different year parts on it. Just for information. Take care and enjoy you A. Hugh
 
Hi Brian.. it is stamped on the frame Left side Near rear motor mount. I have car totally disassembled .. I have also looked on firewall.. find no number. I have a pic of it.. let me see if I can figure out how to post the pic if it is helpful Thanks !
 
31atheway said:
Hi Brian.. it is stamped on the frame Left side Near rear motor mount. I have car totally disassembled .. I have also looked on firewall.. find no number. I have a pic of it.. let me see if I can figure out how to post the pic if it is helpful Thanks !
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Quick note on terminology, the body and the frame are separate things. The body rests on top of the frame. A number stamped on the frame is much more authoritative than a number stamped on the body.
 
The instrument panels won't interchange . If the model A has a 30=31 style gas tank with a 28-29 instrument panel , it is more than likely before june 1930 production unless the gas tank has been swapped for a before June production gas tank .
 
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Something else I was wondering. I read somewhere where engine is stamped with sn at time of production.. Of course. then at time engine is put on frame the same engine number is stamped on frame.. if that true, then reverse thinking would say the engine was replaced at some point during cars lifetime.. And if you look on the engine number cross reference I found on mikeafordabe blog A2251152 is a 1929? Oh man!

https://www.mikes-afordable.com/blog/?cat=5
 
Thanks everyone. I learning a lot here. Body vs frame num etc. also note I have most of the car but missing things like instrument panel unfortunately.. I have also been looking at url that were posted here Good stuff! Will investigate
 
Ok.. my bad.. I did say body number in the original post.. not body number. The A2251152 is stamped on frame of car. Sorry for confusion
 
Seems you may have entered the Twilight Zone.:)


The frame is what you should use to date your A.


The engine if not the same can be anything/any year. During the life of a 90 year old Model A, a lot of things could have happened. Not uncommon for there to be Frankenstein cars. People were a lot more resourceful, lots of used parts used on Backyard and 3rd party mechanic repairs to the point were you can have all kinds of parts/aftermarket parts/etc, even from different years mixed in. This is why restoring to original A can be so difficult, and why it is rare to find an original/untouched car, or at least a car with all original or period correct parts.
 
Lol! Yes I am starting come to reality. All you say is very true I sure. Even my dads 1949 Plymouth used 1950 51 parts. Although by that time cars had become a bit more distinguishable .. Seems like I do have a Frankie. Haha. I need to Persue the number on the frame I guess. Thank you everyone ! Accepting all ideas and suggestions.
 
My ‘31 Budd cab pickup had all sorts of mix-match parts on it. Most notable was the light bar (which was 28-29) and the earlier narrow bed. Also has the radiator shell for a ‘30 passenger car. My theory is that the guy that “restored” it back in the ‘80s just used whatever he could lay his hands on in order to get a “complete” vehicle.
 
You didn't include your general location (which I suggest that you do, you can never tell when it will pay off) so I am going to make a generic comment which probably applies to most locations. Absolutely the first thing you should do is get the title straightened out. In doing so there is a remote chance the vehicle will turn up stolen, you want to find this out as soon as possible while you can still find the seller and before you have invested time and money in the vehicle. The second reason is that taxes are frequently based on the value of the vehicle which you want to be as low as possible, that means before you start fixing it up.

Charlie Stephens
 
Thanks Charlie The car is in Cleburne Texas. I bought it from a friend of mine who had it for decades in McKinney Texas. The car actually belonged to my friends dad. Reaching out to my friend for more history on car if possible . He actually remembers riding in it.. yes sir. I have read that car thieves were fairly common in those days. I have some money in it to date, but mostly a lot of grunt work on frame and frame type items, steering, brakes, rust removal, primer, paint, etc.

At a point where bigger bucks are gonna be required. Shocks, tires, engine/trans. Haven’t started on body yet.. tons to do.

Another Frankenstein item on this car are the wheels. Came with 17 inch metal spoke wheels... Correct me if wrong but 29 had wooden wheels? 30 and 31 had 19 inch? And I read that 17 inch wheels were introduced in 1932 and only lasted a year? 5 bolt pattern same on all as I understand. Not 100% sure on all this but did read it. Thanks Charlie.
 
31atheway said:
Thanks Charlie The car is in Cleburne Texas. I bought it from a friend of mine who had it for decades in McKinney Texas. The car actually belonged to my friends dad. Reaching out to my friend for more history on car if possible . He actually remembers riding in it.. yes sir. I have read that car thieves were fairly common in those days. I have some money in it to date, but mostly a lot of grunt work on frame and frame type items, steering, brakes, rust removal, primer, paint, etc.

At a point where bigger bucks are gonna be required. Shocks, tires, engine/trans. Haven’t started on body yet.. tons to do.

Another Frankenstein item on this car are the wheels. Came with 17 inch metal spoke wheels... Correct me if wrong but 29 had wooden wheels? 30 and 31 had 19 inch? And I read that 17 inch wheels were introduced in 1932 and only lasted a year? 5 bolt pattern same on all as I understand. Not 100% sure on all this but did read it. Thanks Charlie.
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The '28-'29 had 21 inch wire wheels.
The 17 inch wire wheels came on the 1933-34.
The 1932 used 18 inch wire wheels.
All same bolt pattern, 5 on 5 1/2.

Charlie Stephens
 
If the body is still off, take pictures, do a tracing of the frame serial #. Get the title straightened out which usually requires a police officer inspection signature. If the body is off easier if the cop can see it. Explain to the cop your engine # and frame #s do not match, sometimes in some places they will note both #s in the paperwork.
 
30 Closed Cab PU said:
If the body is still off, take pictures, do a tracing of the frame serial #. Get the title straightened out which usually requires a police officer inspection signature. If the body is off easier if the cop can see it. Explain to the cop your engine # and frame #s do not match, sometimes in some places they will note both #s in the paperwork.
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If it is like California they will then attach an identification plate to the door jam to be used in the future.

Charlie Stephens
 
I'm in Texas and all I needed was a tracing of the engine #, shows 29, registered as 30 model. Had owner with me and went to DMV personally. No problem. Never had frame # available.
 
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