59 AB Pan Removal
- Thread starter RKS.PA
- Start date
rockfla
Well-known member
I would imagine that your 47 is similar to our 39 Merc. I was wanting to do the similar job in dropping the oil pan and was looking at that task this weekend. It for sure (for me and the 39) would be removing the exhaust from the muffler forward (stock style exhaust with cross-over pipe), and at minimum removing all the bolts to the engine tins (IF equipped) and then "possibly" removing the steering bell crank to removing the left engine tin out of the way "maybe". Then it appeared "possible" to drop the pan and remove it??? I still wasn't sure "IF" there was enough room at the front of the pan to drop far enough and still clear the steering tie rods and crank at the same time? Maybe someone can confirm that aspect.
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41ford1
Well-known member
I've done it on the 40/41 pickup. I did not need to disconnect any steering gear. Jack it up high enough to let the front end hangs. The crank may need to be turned so the front crank pin is down. Otherwise the the pan will not clear the counter weight. The pickup has dual exhaust so there was no need to remove that.
FortyNiner
Well-known member
I am at best a mechanical hack so take this as you will.
I doubt it. The bell housing and the oil pan don't play together nicely. When reassembling my 59 AB, I tried to install the bell housing after the pan was on - didn't work.
Your mileage may vary.
I doubt it. The bell housing and the oil pan don't play together nicely. When reassembling my 59 AB, I tried to install the bell housing after the pan was on - didn't work.
Your mileage may vary.
RKS.PA
Well-known member
FortyNiner, my bell housing is cast as part of the block, so I don't think I should have that issue. It looks to me like I should be able to pull the starter, loosen all the pan bolts, including the transmission attachment to the pan extension, and bring the whole thing down to expose the bottom end.
I guess what I'm looking for here is "yes, you can do it this way" or "no, you can't and will have to pull the engine or the trans."
I did this rear seal replacement on my '39 59AB, with the crank lowered enough to do the top and bottom seal replacement, but I pulled the engine and worked on it with the block upside down on my stand. It was a total leak stop success.
I'm trying for something like that here.
Thanks for responding.
WBrown
Junior Member
I dropped the tie rod, pulled the starter and removed the crossover pipe. Straight uneventful drop. Lifting that sucker back into place was the difficult part.
If you're by yourself, you might consider some Felpro "snap ups" they screw into the block and allow one to seat the pan until bolts are installed. Come 4 to a kit, plastic and pretty durable. Best of luck.
If you're by yourself, you might consider some Felpro "snap ups" they screw into the block and allow one to seat the pan until bolts are installed. Come 4 to a kit, plastic and pretty durable. Best of luck.
RKS.PA
Well-known member
Thank you for confirming that I can do this with the engine in the car. Thanks, too, for the the Felpro snap up kits tip....didn't know about them. I have Red's headers, so the crossover pipe won't be an issue, but I was wondering about the tie rod.
dwick01
Senior Member
I just did this a few months ago on my '47 fordor. Get it sitting on jack stands on the frame. As what WBrown says and you have to take the front motor mounts loose and jack the front of the motor up a few inches for added clearance. I was leaking lots of oil, and not so any more. Also cleaned out the sludge from the pan and replaced the oil pump screen. Mine was completely clogged up. Very pleased with the outcome and glad I did it. My younger brother came over and helped which made it much easier on the old man.