how to remove coil 1941 merc

G

grouchyandugly

Member
I have those screws out, but it appears the Condenser is holding it in.
do not want to force it. what needs to be done?? my COIL is cracked
bad, likely why it shut down on me. will have to buy a new one. any suggestions?? stay safe
thanks
G&U
 
I believe that the 41 is the same as back to 37...IF so there should be just two machine screws on either side of the coil and the condenser should come off with the coil. Some times they do get a little tight so once the machine screws are out just give it a little bump to one side with the palm of your hand and it should pop loose. Being that it is cracked is probably got it fitting extra tight. ALSO watch for the little spring and carbon tip on the end of the coil. Skip Haney down in Punta Gorda FL is the go to man for coils....his ad is in the V8 TImes if you're a member of the EFV8 Club. IF you still have trouble getting your coil off PM me and I will come over and help you!!! Once you have the coil off, put a small rag or paper towel in the the coil opening and take a scotch-brite pad and rub the inside lip of the coil and clean that surface real good and the coil will fit back in smoothly!!!
 
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thanks. the dumb coil (including me) is loose. but. it does seem to have the Condenser holding it in place. I placed a screwdriver under and pried EASY, but no go. will hustle out and see if I can get it off. I DO need a new coil. if you pass that ph number I will order one today. the coil body is not co-operating with coming loose (I KNEW I WAS UGLY!!).
just rechecked it. the Condenser is being held in place by a flat piece of
metal that is held in place by a bolt (with also a screw head), some 1/2in
bolt. in a almost inaccessible location behind the dumb coil. looks like I
will have to loosen that freaking bolt before I can pull the coil out. but... will
wait and see if anyone knows about this dumb dirtyword booger. stay safe
thanks
 
On no V8 coil does the condenser help hold the coil on! So your condenser should come off with the coil. As I mentioned, being yours in "cracked" "most likely" is causing it to be "extra" tight fitting. Gently bump it on the sides, from the front, back and forth and it should pop loose!!
 
rockfla said:
On no V8 coil does the condenser help hold the coil on! So your condenser should come off with the coil. As I mentioned, being yours in "cracked" "most likely" is causing it to be "extra" tight fitting. Gently bump it on the sides, from the front, back and forth and it should pop loose!!
Click to expand...

I don't know about this statement; your're gonna break something unless you remove the distributor mounting bolt the condenser strap is mounted under. The condenser has to be connected to the coil and to ground.
 
tubman said:
I don't know about this statement; your're gonna break something unless you remove the distributor mounting bolt the condenser strap is mounted under. The condenser has to be connected to the coil and to ground.
Click to expand...
He has already stated that the coil screw are out of the coil..The condenser ground strap fits under the "Coil" screws, not the distributor bolts, right? NOT to be "smart" BUT I've just had the distributor, coil and such off and on our 39 Merc probably 6 times here in the last month and a half.....that's how its been every time I have performed my work. The condenser screw bolts it to the brass forked tab on the coil, the ground strap curls around "under" the left distributor mounting screw and the ignition wire screws to the top of the coil via knurled thumb screw nut....Right?
 
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Big Surprise! Here comes the electronic ignition, as I said.

Great advice to help him hot wire it ... 12 volts to the 6 volt coil.

(Seriously, you guys did not see this coming?)

Shame is that this was a beautiful, low-mile car. I've know it for years owned by one of my best friends. He bought it many years ago from the original owners, an affluent family who purchased it new here in Jacksonville. He drove it regularly around North Florida, to Daytona, Ormond, etc. Sold it with 40k original miles on it with no modifications.

You will have to excuse me for expressing my disappointment, but I genuinely like old cars ... especially flatheads.
 
the coil is loose, I can move it around easily...but... that dirtyword condenser is holding it in place (well, not actually in place because it allows me to move the coil)…. the coil will not move Vertical, and when I do pull it up the condenser holds that side down. and there is a strap of some type, flat metal, that apparently is secured with a freaking bolt. may I have Skips' number so I can at lease order a new one today?? wait about 5 mins or so and I will take a photo of it and see iffen I can insert in here (had trouble putting my 41 on here). stay safe. thanks
 
??? I have not said anything about converting it to electronic ignition. satisfied with it being like it is (whups, not with the cracked coil that is). stay safe. thanks
 
Most times its easier to remove the distribuor and coil complete.
Then you can actually see that when refitting the coil all is sitting correct, ie the carbon brush and coil contact. As its possible to have these not fitting correct when coil changing with distributor on engine. The mounting screw holding your condenser is also securing distributor to engine.
All the best.
Phil NZ
 
The ground strap for the condenser is held by a 5/16 cap screw that mounts the distributor - remove that cap screw, the two cap screws on the sides of the coil, and the wire terminal nut and that will allow the removal of the coil.
 
What Tubman posted is correct unless Merc. Is different. You need to remove one Dist.bolt to remove condenser. 1/2 " open end is needed. When installing condenser, notch the mounting hole so next time you only need to losten it to remove.
 
Is this what you have? >
iu


Or this? >

iu

Flathead_Distributor_1937to41.jpg
 
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You'll need to remove the bolt at the top of the distributor housing (right side) to the timing gear cover. That bolt serves to fasten the timing gear cover AND the condenser.
I have found the easiest way is to use a 1/4" drive ratchet, a 6'" extension and a dedicated 1/2" swivel.
 
petehoovie said:
Is this what you have? >
iu


Or this? >

iu

Flathead_Distributor_1937to41.jpg
Click to expand...

First of all, I am not trying to start anything here; I just want to expand my knowledge. Again, I am an 8BA guy, and most of my experience (I did have a bunch) with the early V8's was over 40 years ago.

Most of you know that I am making "Trash Can" condensers for use with high performance ignition systems. This endeavor is going quite well, and recently, I have received several requests to see if I could come up with quality replacements for currently available pre-war Ford condensers. to this end, I have obtained a good quantity of "dead" pre-war Ford condensers, both the '32-'36 variety, as well as the '37-'41 units.

My question in here is about the '37-'41 variety. EVERY example of these that are original Ford with script (however faint) cases is of the second variety shown in this post. I currently believe that the first type is strictly non-contemporary (witness the part number on the box), which I of course, have no interest in duplicating. Can any of you experts on pre-war units confirm this?.
 
Tubman, The type with the strap that goes to the coil body is a service replacement part and not concourse correct for any year. While easier to R&R, again, they are not correct.
The type with the loop that the timing cover bolt goes through is proper.

And, actually there are very good replacement condensers available for those that are willing to spend a few bucks.
Joe Hunt Magnetos sells them. About $30 each. Wonderful quality. Not correct in appearance but as you of all folks know, not difficult to disguise.
 
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