1956 Ford fairlane 4-dr rocker panel install

M

markoxpollo

Junior Member
Ok, I need to replace all rocker panels - inner and outer on both sides. Bought all replacements from EMS. The car body is currently OFF the frame and on a support stand. My question is, does the body have to be on the frame for strength and support to replace the rockers, or will it hold up on a support stand? I’m worried it might bend or twist once I remove the bad panels. See photos... Thank you all!
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The car body is currently OFF the frame and on a support stand. My question is, does the body have to be on the frame for strength and support to replace the rockers, or will it hold up on a support stand? I’m worried it might bend or twist once I remove the bad panels.
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OK, TOWN SEDAN.

On your stand, is the body supported on the mounting pads? The reason I'm asking is that to properly align the body, the actual mounting points on the body and frame supports have to be in good condition to arrive at square without having to excessively shim the mounts to plumb the repaired body on the frame mounts. Do you have a SHOP MANUAL having the diagram showing tram specs?
 
no, Im planning on moving the body onto jack stands on those key areas you mentioned. I do have a shop manual to reference too. I will then weld in some cross braces for support. Sound right?
 
I will then weld in some cross braces for support. Sound right?
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Cross bracing on door openings is a must. Do you have a tram gauge or good quality tape to measure door openings before cutting out and checking twice before/after tacking in?

Does it look as if their was any body collision damage before?

Do you have a SHOP MANUAL to give you the measurements?
 
Yes, I have a good tape measure and manual. Here is what I'm planning to do for cross braces... see photo... any other brace recommendations?IMG_8362.jpg
 
Ideally, the body should be on the frame when replacing panels like rockers in order to maintain body alignment. Since yours is already off, do one rocker at a time. The thing in your favor is it is a sedan with a steel top and subject to less flex than a convertible or even a hardtop
 
I do them one side at a time with the body on the frame. I've not done a 56 but the 51Mercury has inner and outer rockers that form a good bit of the structure of the car. The outers had to come off first then the inners could be removed. As long as the cowl and the rear quarters are supported there is usually no need for braces. If the floor is severely compromised with corrosion then it has to be completely cross braced with the body still on the frame and doors still fitting correctly.

Unless the car had been in a previous accident or more, the B pillar will usually remain where it is supposed to be. I won't tell you not to cross brace but too many braces will just get in the way of the work. I only brace when I know I have to and even then, I brace it so I can get to the work. A single brace from A to C pillar and from B pillar right to left will usually get the job done unless the body has been hit hard before. In that event, the doors will have to be used to get the fit correct on the body.
 
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When I did mine, I had sent the body off to be plastic bead blasted. While it was gone, I sandblasted, cleaned and painted the frame. By the time the body came back, I had the finished frame on wheels again and was ready to drop the body back down on the frame to replace both inner and outer rockers (using all new body mounting rubber pads).
After all the welding of the floor-pans and rockers, I pulled the body up off the frame again and rolled the frame out of the garage so I could paint the undercarriage of the body.
If you are using a home-made frame out of lumber, you would need to make sure all four corners of your frame are perfectly level and have intermediate supports with wood blocks and wedges under every floor mounting hole before beginning cutting out the old rockers. And it would need to be high enough off the floor to enable you to crawl under the car to cut and weld on the inner rockers.
 
Daves55Sedan said:
When I did mine, I had sent the body off to be plastic bead blasted. While it was gone, I sandblasted, cleaned and painted the frame. By the time the body came back, I had the finished frame on wheels again and was ready to drop the body back down on the frame to replace both inner and outer rockers (using all new body mounting rubber pads).
After all the welding of the floor-pans and rockers, I pulled the body up off the frame again and rolled the frame out of the garage so I could paint the undercarriage of the body.
If you are using a home-made frame out of lumber, you would need to make sure all four corners of your frame are perfectly level and have intermediate supports with wood blocks and wedges under every floor mounting hole before beginning cutting out the old rockers. And it would need to be high enough off the floor to enable you to crawl under the car to cut and weld on the inner rockers.
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thanks
 
rotorwrench said:
I do them one side at a time with the body on the frame. I've not done a 56 but the 51Mercury has inner and outer rockers that form a good bit of the structure of the car. The outers had to come off first then the inners could be removed. As long as the cowl and the rear quarters are supported there is usually no need for braces. If the floor is severely compromised with corrosion then it has to be completely cross braced with the body still on the frame and doors still fitting correctly.

Unless the car had been in a previous accident or more, the B pillar will usually remain where it is supposed to be. I won't tell you not to cross brace but too many braces will just get in the way of the work. I only brace when I know I have to and even then, I brace it so I can get to the work. A single brace from A to C pillar and from B pillar right to left will usually get the job done unless the body has been hit hard before. In that event, the doors will have to be used to get the fit correct on the body.
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Like this?And then one inside forming an "x"
View attachment 418772
 
Let's try this one more time -

The OP has the body off the frame. It is not on a chassis plate or frame machine. Hopefully the body is square.

Being on a wooden support will in no way ensure body integrity, especially when components are cut out. At the minimum it has to be braced and then trammed for square. After the repair work is done, it needs to be set onto the frame (set on stands squared and level), mounts shimmed properly and again checked for square/integrity before the bracing(s) is removed. Either this or set it back on the frame before cutting.

Anything else is a crap shoot.

EDIT -

Similar Situation - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1609919-1956-f100-door-opening.html
 

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If things get out of whack, It's a good idea to put the body on a correct frame and start fitting doors & deck lids as many times needed to get every thing in the right place before completely welding everything up. It's a good idea to check the frame for square before putting the body on it. This way the cowl will be in the right place and everything else will fall in line with it. It always depends on how much is rotted out and how much is still holding the basic structure square. If the whole floor is gone then the body had to be squared up while adding braces & cross braces. After it is square, the floor can then be tacked in place then it has to be checked again. Something will be off if everything doesn't fit right to start with. Everything has to fit before major weld up takes place.
 
As long as the body is still attached to the frame and not sagging I'm hoping mine will be square. Brace diagonally door openings and cross brace, cut out rockers and inner rockers, replace from inside out is my plan for my '56 Meteor Rideau Victoria.
 
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