Early 30 Pickup questions

Hello,
Just catching up on messages after the Christmas holidays.
Thank you for the link. Very detailed and easy to follow. I have some birch plywood that should work well for this.
Tal
 
Hello,
Just catching up on messages after the Christmas holidays.
Thank you for the link. Very detailed and easy to follow. I have some birch plywood that should work well for this.
Tal
 
Initial photos of the pickup. Been in storage since October 1968. Was in mid-repair/renovation (not quite restoration) and I rode in it one time when I was 7. Other than a general going-over it shouldn't take much to get her going again. Will post others as it transforms.
 

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The early brake drums are not compatible with the 19 inch rims. The drum profile under the studs does not adequately support the wheel hub and stress cracks form.
 
Brentwood Bob said:
The early brake drums are not compatible with the 19 inch rims. The drum profile under the studs does not adequately support the wheel hub and stress cracks form.
Click to expand...
Bob,

I am not sure why you posted this or what you are trying to say. Am I missing something? Did you mean to say 16 inch rims (as shown in Post #23) instead of 19, if so it makes sense. All Model A drums are compatible with both the 19 and 21 inch rims except the early (which his is not) '28 drums and wheels which are not compatible (interchangeable) with any of the later ones. If I am wrong someone please correct me.

Were you trying to say the later rims shown in Post #23 ('40-'48) and not compatible with the mechanical brake drums? They definitely are not compatible and this is a serious safety issue. The bolt pattern is the same and they will appear to bolt on but the humps on the Model A mechanical brake drums will keep the rim from seating correctly and could potentially cause the wheel to fail and come off. The problem with running the wire wheels on '40-'48 drums/hubs is discussed here: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1286293&posted=1#post1286293 You will need to visualize what will happen running the later rims on the mechanical brake drums.

Charlie Stephens
 
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Hello,
For clarity the wheels shown were only used to roll the pickup out of the shed, onto a trailer and unload into a shop. It will have a set of proper spoke wheels on it very shortly.

It is good to point out the safety concern and I appreciate it.

Thank you
 
I remember seeing a comparison showing that the early brake drum profile (21) is not the same as the later (19) and stress cracks can form in the inner hub of the 21 inch rims.
 
Good Morning...You might want to consider dropping the pan and cleaning it out and checking to make sure the oil pump is not clogged. Put some Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinders a couple of days before you try to turn the engine over with a crank with the plugs out...many a good engine has been damaged by someone attempting to start it without doing a basic cleaning...You might also wish to re-pack the wheel bearings as they will be dry and full of sludge...Enjoy...Ernie in Arizona
 
Happy New Year Ernie!
Good advice. Engine had about a half gallon of oil poured in it when parked in '68 and has been turned over at least annually ever since. It has compression so no stuck valves which is a good thing. Pulling pan Friday morning. I'm sure it was running non-detergent oil and needs cleaning out prior to switching over. Marvel Mystery Oil is good stuff! I expect turning it over with plugs out to sling new oil around is also a healthy move.
Thank you for the post.
 
Brentwood Bob said:
Service Bulletins, pg. 328.
Click to expand...

The bulletin on page 328 is from March, 1929, when they were warning dealers not to mix the mid-1928 and later wheels (from cars that had a separate parking brake band in the rear wheels) with an early-1928 car that has the parking brake actuate the service brake shoes on all 4 wheels. And not to mix the other way around either.

Remember, the extra step was added to the rear drums so that the parking brake has a place to rub against? That made the drum a bit wider. So the center part of the wheels had to be made a bit deeper to fit right. This happened around mid-1928 to late-1928. (These are all 21" wheels we are talking about.)

Once you have the late-1928-and-later brake drums, with the separate parking brake and the deeper wheel centers to accommodate them, then any 1929-1931 or later wheel works just fine.

Luckily the number of early-1928 cars and trucks produced was a bit limited, so you don't see these early wheels and drums very often. But when you do, don't mix brake parts with parts from later cars.
 
Good morning to those who are following this thread.

IT'S ALIVE!!!

The past two days have been very productive. Engine pan was pulled and cleaned (baffle removed thanks to a 6 second YouTube video). Side plate removed and cleaned, all the while soaking pistons in Marvel Mystery Oil. Will post some pictures shortly. Cleaned points and plugs, installed new condenser and points cam as old one was rusty. Installed distributor and set timing. Carburetor that was rebuilt by my friend was installed next, along with choke rod, etc. Spun the engine over to pick up some oil. Used a temporary gas tank and after locating a short from the coil wire to another, she fired right up! It blew 51 years of acorns, dust and rust from the exhaust pipe and after maybe 10 seconds of fast idle, ran perfectly at idle. After marveling at this for a minute we shut her down and my friend said "see if she will start with the crank", so with spark retarded one quarter turn of the crank was all it took to start her again! Once the Marvel Mystery Oil burned off there was no smoke or noise. I think we're in business. I have to admit wiping a tear when she started. Remember the last I hear her run I was 7 and my Dad 35, in 1968. He's going to be so surprised!

By the way, this engine has less than 500 miles since new. Serial number is A4849079. I believe I located the pickup's original engine in the barn, if correct it places this pickup at February 1930. Will confirm with my dad later. Might also lift the cab when gas tank is removed to see number on frame.

Now come the brakes. This will include getting cast iron drums and getting my brake arcing machine going. (which at the time of acquisition my wife questioned "why do you want that?, to which I replied "I might need it someday." Guess that day is coming soon.)

Safety Note

As many of you post notes pertaining to safety, here's my tip of the day. There was at least a quarter turn of play in the steering wheel. While working under the engine it was noticed that the drag link plug was missing its cotter pin and the plug was backed out significantly. This must have been in this state during my one and only ride in '68. Glad it didn't come lose then or you might not be reading this now. We tightened it up and now have less than 1/8 of a turn of play. Big improvement and I'm sure there's more to be gained. The moral of the story, don't assume and check out everything before hitting the road.

Thanks again to all who have provided tips and inspiration.
 
installed new condenser and points cam as old one was rusty
Click to expand...

I'd suggest that you check the surface of the new points cam to be sure that it's as smooth as glass. 2 years ago I put a new points cam in and didn't inspect it, expecting it to be smooth, it wasn't. It wore down the rubbing block on the points in about 25 miles.
YMMV
 
That pickup body is beautiful the way it is! Heck just make sure it is safe to drive and then start enjoying all the time you get with your father and that pickup cruising around.


Denny
 
I see in How to Restore Your Model A, Volume 2, page 23, a fixture for painting wheels.

Is this the latest and greatest idea to date? If not, would someone please send information on what that is.

If so, would someone please send information on construction?

Thank you
 
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