Intake port repair

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khschs

Member
Well, I've really did it this time. While porting the #7 intake I went through the top of the port. I understand that you can reshape intake ports with some kind of epoxy. If this is true it stands to reason that it could stop a small leak. Has anyone ever experienced this problem? What material and technique was used to satisfactorily fix the problem? All help appreciated
Keith
 
How could it be anything other than cast-iron, were talking the block here correct? Intake port.
 
khschs said:
Well, I've really did it this time. While porting the #7 intake I went through the top of the port. I understand that you can reshape intake ports with some kind of epoxy. If this is true it stands to reason that it could stop a small leak. Has anyone ever experienced this problem? What material and technique was used to satisfactorily fix the problem? All help appreciated
Keith
Click to expand...

You can try epoxy but it very seldom works.
I have gone through on many blocks and I was always able to fix them with silver solder. Practice on a junk block.
As you discovered, there is not much meat on the top. The sides and bottom can go out quite away. An ultrasonic test gauge is very helpful for porting but probes that will go in the ports are quite expensive.
 
It is the block which is cast iron (59a). I don't think I'll be able to get a tig torch in there. I can't really see it, just feel it with my finger. I'm hoping that some kind of epoxy applied by hand might solve the problem. Keith
 
I would try Devcon as this stuff hardens like steel. I have used it several times and it really works. The last time I got it from Graingers. It does. have a shelf life so avoid using any that's not fresh.
 
I agree with marko39 I have used Devcon products for over fifty years and it works. You must clean the area thoroughly and read the instructions. JMHO
 
Maybe this will help or at least help a future porter.

This is a 1935 intake port. I doubt if any thing changed over the years but, I'm not sure of that.
417311
 
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I was doing a valve job on a different flathead, there's evidence of "porting"attempts, in the #1 intake there's epoxy, didn't have coolant leaking problems ---- been glued for at least 15 years, I stayed away from that area, mane of the guides were cracked from improperly installed, runs good now, even though it has adjustable tappets I ground the stems for clearance, easier than playing with 3 wrenches,(the final adjustment is done running , hot anyway -
 

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It takes mucho cleaning before applying any epoxy type material. This means the outside area(in water jacket) needs attention just like the port interior. I would use the original, slow cure, JB Weld. The puddle will be self-leveling so there will be a need to put a "dam" in place to prevent all the JB from dripping thru the hole. I suggest looking for the hole at the water-jacket side and applying your material from there with the block sitting approximately level at the hole. You can stuff the surrounding area with paper towels to control excess spillage into unwanted areas. Next day clear out the paper towels and touchup the port interior and prepare to run it. Good Luck.
 
I've been hearing about Devcon and how good it is for years now. When I go to look for some, there are literally dozens of different types. Which type do any of you recommend?
 
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One time when porting a French Flathead block a hole developed in the top area of a port. This hole was not small so prior to using JB weld epoxy to cover the port surface I first took a piece of scrap aluminum flat stock about 1/4 inch thick that I slowly filed to a shape that fit snugly into that new hole. Once I was happy with the fit I then covered the now partially plugged hole with the epoxy. The repair worked perfectly.
Ronnieroadster
 
Ronnie used Belzona 1212 for a hole that appeared in the outside of the water jacket on my block after it was baked and cleaned. They have two popular products: 1111 & 1212. 1111 can only be used for "surgical-level" cleaned areas. 1212 was recommended by their field rep for it tolerates less than surgically cleaned areas.

The hole in the block must have been filled by some other type of epoxy that was stripped away in the cleaning process. I did a ton of research and it kept coming back to Belzona as being the best epoxy out there.

It is the only epoxy approved by Caterpillar for repairs on their equipment, so that tells you something.
 
The last time I used Devcon it was to repair a rust hole on the bottom of a 80 gallon air compressor tank. Could only clean up the outside but repair was successful and tank holds 175 psi. I think it was called Liquid Steel.
 
Without seeing the hole , I have been known to use either Devcon ,marine Tex or J.B.weld , I done a repair in my new chev. powered 454 motor home many years ago.
I used a small shop vac. and applied vacuum to the water jacket, I took the Cold weld compound and fed some in the cracked area to get penetration then smoothed the top area off. This got me to the dealership for warranty about a thousand miles away , also about 30 years ago I repaired an 8 B.A. block with a small freeze crack over an inch long using the same method , it is still running fine to this day. I also patched a damaged radiator in a D12 Cat Dozer and continued to work it for another 10 years, Just a suggestion as to what can be done. it depends on the location of the crack and to what degree of damage sometimes dictate the method most suitable .
 
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