Interest in new restoration project thread?

19Fordy said:
I think it's really cool that "Kube" is willing to share his knowledge and show the results with others. Lots of folks take it all with them on their last ride.
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Is this my last ride? Oh my gosh! I didn't realize that. ARGGGHHHH!
 
A Nason paint system was mentioned previously. I think they are now under the Axalta banner along with Dupont coatings by brand names. Dupont coatings was spun off some years ago to Axalta. I was around Nason way back when I worked in a NAPA warehouse while going to aviation school but I've not used any of there stuff. It's been a while since I used Imron Elite but it and Chromabase are also Axalta products now days.

I sort of avoid painting the helicopters now days because it's so much work with a million rivets to block around. Because of this, I'm well aware how much fun the frames and interior pieces would be to refinish. My hat is off to those that make the attempt.
 
Larry said:
Hi Mike, I just found your thread on the restoration. Count me in. Thanks Larry
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I haven't had too much to "show" lately. I've been working on the doors which were very nice to begin with as well as building up the differential / Columbia.
I probably should have photographed the process of replacing the torque tube bearing but once I was immersed in that project, I didn't "look up" until I was done. I am so happy I relieved my wallet years ago when offered the KR Wilson tools dedicated for this task.
 
I'll bet it's cool to use tools specifically made for the task.
I search and search for a good deal on them. I completely understand what u mean when u say "relieve your wallet"
I ended up making some of the tools I used in rebuilding my Columbia. It's been a few years now since the rebuild and I've never had an issue with it since. Of course with the info from the guys on here it makes it a bit easier to achieve.
 
I have my torque tubes powder coated on the outside and since they have been sandblasted inside and out, I Glyptol the inside of the tube so it won't rust. It is really effortless to pull in the new center bearing with the KRW tool. I sight down and line up the arrow on the tool with the hole for the grease fitting, wipe a little liquid soap on the outer rubber donut and it slides in up to the stop very easily, dead on the grease hole in the T tube with the grease hole in the rubber donut.
 
deuce_roadster said:
I have my torque tubes powder coated on the outside and since they have been sandblasted inside and out, I Glyptol the inside of the tube so it won't rust. It is really effortless to pull in the new center bearing with the KRW tool. I sight down and line up the arrow on the tool with the hole for the grease fitting, wipe a little liquid soap on the outer rubber donut and it slides in up to the stop very easily, dead on the grease hole in the T tube with the grease hole in the rubber donut.
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Spoken by a man that (obviously) has the KRW tool :)
 
Pictures of KRW Torque Tube center bearing tool.
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Note the end the bearing goes on is solid with the shaft and has a square notch that a square rubber protrusion (which is in line with grease hole in the rubber) from the rubber the bearing is encased in locks the bearing so it cannot spin on the shaft.
At the transmission bell end note that the disk has an arrow to line up the tool with the grease fitting hole, I temporarily install a new grease fitting to more easily sight down and line up the tool. Also notice the groove in the shaft and the pin in the disk that prohibits the disk from turning on the shaft and prevents the shaft from turning relative to the disk. These things are what makes the tool so easy to use and accurate.
 
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There is also a similar KRW tool for removing the old center bearing. This tool will allow you to remove the bearing without damaging it. Usually they are beyond reusing but occasionally one is still nice enough to use over.
 
40larry said:
There is also a similar KRW tool for removing the old center bearing. This tool will allow you to remove the bearing without damaging it. Usually they are beyond reusing but occasionally one is still nice enough to use over.
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I've got that tool as well. It looks pretty much like the installer but different dimensions. I can post photos if so desired.
I've never considered reusing that bearing as it's too much work to R&R after the car is restored and assembled.
 
Rubber in it's natural form, doesn't have a very long life span even if kept in controlled environments. Neoprene lasts longer but is still life limited and vulnerable to ozone and some solvents. The fluorocarbon and fluorosilicon elastomers have the longest shelf and working life but they are more expensive to produce. Both were developed in the mid 50s due to a need for low and high temp seals for aerospace applications with good swell resistance to lubricants and solvents. If they could use more modern elastomers, to reproduce stuff like this then it would last a very long time. I'm not sure what is used on the ones Skip sells but it is likely neoprene.
 
Skip Haney sent me instructions along with the center bearing on how to install the bearing with a tool fabricated from PVC pipe. Worked great and was cheap to make! used it on my '40 pickup.
 
Is Skip's bearing a sealed bearing or is the grease fitting on the TT still in play?
Good use of this thread while waiting for the next installment of pictures from Kube!
 
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