KRW shock absorber wrench

Brewsterbuff said:
Can any body show a picture of this wrench. Measurements would also be helpful. Might there be one for sale????
Click to expand...

Which wrench? Please show photo. Most who have them don’t let them go. I have most of them except one and could supply a photo , although they are in the 31 catalog
Larry shepard
 
Catalog pics
 

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larrys40 said:
Which wrench? Please show photo. Most who have them don’t let them go. I have most of them except one and could supply a photo , although they are in the 31 catalog
Larry shepard
Click to expand...


just curious, did that long tool to remove the outside cover work for you? there is a lot written about how difficult original shocks are to open.....
 
Way back when I did my shocks I used a strap wrench to remove the covers, only had a propane torch for heat, had just built a garage, when pouring the floor I sunk 2 anchor bolts for a metal plate that a shock could be mounted on, found a truck lug wrench that fit the hex, that and a 10 foot bar was good enough to take apart enough shocks to find "good ones" ---ones with no internal wear or rust
 
Eric,
It works ok I put a little heat in the cover before I try and take them off. I don’t like doing shocks so don’t mess with them too often. I have the Krw fixture took to hold them along with the orher wrenches. The tools definitely help.
Larry
 
anyone thinking of rebuilding your shocks. should get the DVD by the Diablo A`s with the late Alex Janke, Alex did a wonderful job on putting it out there so the average person can understand. it give you a whole lot of insight on rebuilding shocks. I use to heat them up with my big torch one at a time. now I do six at a time using Alex`s way.

the big problem finding good rebuild-able cores.
 
The cover is best taken off with a hammer.

First you need to burn off the hardened rubber seal. You are not trying to heat the cover.

Then you want to use a small ball peen hammer to to gentle taps around the shell. What your doing it hitting it just hard enough to stretch the metal a little and break it free from the base. You can then use a strap wrench to take it off.

BUT

You need the treads to be tight for a better seal. You just made it loose. Now you do a bunch of small heat spots around the open area of the cover. This will shrink the cover for a snug fit. When you start out (after the threads have been fully cleaned) the will be some play back and forth in the threads. As you shrink it this will go away. As always with shrinking, do some then let it come all the way down in temp and do a test fit. Repeat till snug.

Now getting the big nut off holding the chamber cover is another story. I borrowed a 3/4" air impact and bought a deep socket. I have a very large heavy vice. You need something VERY firmly hold the base. Slight movement will take away the force of the impact and could make it impossible to unscrew.

I am cautious in using heat in the shocks. They are precision built things and they likely use some special metal. The valve needs to be heated. The packing needs to be burned o up some to allow the valve to come out. The valve head is fragile and needs to be treated gently.
 
I use a bbq grill with Kingford charcoal You cook the bone in ribeye and potatoes when done toss the shocks on. Heat them hot then let them cool will loosen up the old gals..
 
This bought back memories. At our old home in Detroit (1964) you will find two 1/2" holes drilled into the concrete driveway that just happen to align with the bolt holes of a Model A shock... what a coincidence :D

Joe B
 
Ha ha ha JoeCB that’s awesome. My 5x6 set up bench wasn’t bolted to the floor and figured made with 1/2 inch steel plate with 250# anvil, 3 vices and a handful of pexto goodies would be enough weight . Nope not with out bolting it to the floor to break the old gals
 
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