36 fuel pump flare fittings leaking...

[cajunfirehawk]

Have a new fuel pump w/the glass bowl on my 36 flatty, both the inlet and outlet fuel fittings are leaking a little, both are flare fittings, should I use Teflon tape or some other sealant on the threads, I always thought no for flare fittings and I don't want to over tighten them?

 

[TerryOH]

The early glass bowl fuel pumps used fittings with brass ferrells as did all the early V8 Ford pumps prior to the war. The later style have NPT threads. I am not aware of any flare fittings

 

[Charlie ny]

What Terry says.
Charlie ny

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

Not a good idea to use Teflon tape on any gas fittings on these old Ford's, from gas tank to carburator. Any minute pieces of Teflon that might make their way into the carburator will cause problems.
Also, the gas line you speak of relies on compression of ferrules for sealing, not flares, as the other guys have already mentioned.

 

[tjh6x6@aol.com]

For whatever it is worth, I have used a pipe thread sealer for all fuel lines (yellow, comes in a can with an applicator) that helps seal the line connection threads. It stands up to gas and oil, only use a little bit. No leaks, easier to disconnect later on.

 

[Don Rogers]

Here's an old article on the correct fittings along with some images.

 

[uncle buck]

NAPA Weatherhead part number 59 x 4 is what I have been using

 

[cajunfirehawk]

Wow, great info so that weatherhead fitting goes over copper fuel line and guessing there is no brass fitting for hose barbs for these pumps?

 

[30-9]

For whatever it is worth, I have used a pipe thread sealer for all fuel lines (yellow, comes in a can with an applicator) that helps seal the line connection threads. It stands up to gas and oil, only use a little bit. No leaks, easier to disconnect later on.

Seals all also

 

[Mart]

The fitting shown has the ferrule already fitted into the nut. In my experience they are not as good as a separate nut and conventional olive. (Olive = ferrule). You can remove the captive ferrule and use a conventional separate olive with that type of nut.

I would agree with those that say no sealant of any kind is needed.

Mart.

 

[uncle buck]

Weatherhead 10004-B304 has worked for me in the past too

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

Mart, I agree with you on the cross sectional view of that fitting, shown in Don's posted picture, as not being as good as the separate ferrule design. I've worked on and owned a few of these Early Ford's and don't actually recall ever having one quite like that on any of these cars that I have worked on. I only recall the separate ferrule design, but I have a bunch of old original carb to fuel pump lines that I'll go and check now. Maybe it's just another case of CRS on my part. ��

The fitting shown has the ferrule already fitted into the nut. In my experience they are not as good as a separate nut and conventional olive. (Olive = ferrule). You can remove the captive ferrule and use a conventional separate olive with that type of nut.

I would agree with those that say no sealant of any kind is needed.

Mart.

 

[uncle buck]

Mart, I agree with you on the cross sectional view of that fitting, shown in Don's posted picture, as not being as good as the separate ferrule design. I've worked on and owned a few of these Early Ford's and don't actually recall ever having one quite like that on any of these cars that I have worked on. I only recall the separate ferrule design, but I have a bunch of old original carb to fuel pump lines that I'll go and check now. Maybe it's just another case of CRS on my part. ��

I just shined a light into the Weatherhead 59 X 4 and it looks very close to the drawing Don posted. The ferrule looks to be pressed into the nut but it is hard to confirm that.

 

[Mart]

Yeah, it's pressed in, but you can pull them out and use conventional separate ferrules. I found they worked better with the conventional ferrule.

 

[tubman]

I to have had problems with the fittings with integral ferrules, but never with the separate ones.