1954 Ford overdrive control cable connection

J

JimNNN

Well-known member
I'm putting a new wiring harness on the O/D on the Ranch Wagon to complete the rewire project I did last winter. Also putting in a new kickdown switch, gas pedal and Overdrive control cable (The old cable was broke so the car was essentially in o/d all the time....of course the car is taken out of o/d by the governor at low speeds.)



That's all well and good, and it should be a straightforward process, BUT when disconnecting the old original (broken) overdrive cable, I've come upon sort of a clamp that secures the cable to the housing of the ******/overdrive unit right before the inner wire of the control cable connects to the "actuater arm" (or whatever it's called) on the o/d unit. The clamp is right about where the outer coil of the control cable ends.



For the life of me I can't find where or how that clamp attaches to the housing. I see no screws or bolts attaching it to the housing. I'm using ramps rather than a lift so I can't see as well as I would if the car was on a lift. The clamp is for securing the cable and it's attached to the cable tight.



I thought maybe the clamp was some sort of spring clip and the cable would come right out, but the clamp is really tight on the cable and the cable won't budge from it at a all. Just a simple little mounting issue, but I can't see how it's supposed to work. Any help appreciated.



Any other suggestions welcome too.
 
UPDATE: Because of limited access (I presume), I was never able to find the mounting screw/bolt for that clamp. For anyone else who finds themselves in the same situation, the workable solution I found was to abandon in place a relatively short length of the original cable sheath (coiled wire housing) at the existing clamp, then clamp the new cable sheath to the original sheath. Not ideal but it works.



You have to clamp the new cable where the original clamp attaches to the existing cable to keep the mounting situation solid and rigid, and I used two new clamps instead of one to further ensure a secure mounting. I've used the overdrive like this for a few weeks and everything seems pretty solid.
 
JimNNN said:
UPDATE: Because of limited access (I presume), I was never able to find the mounting screw/bolt for that clamp. For anyone else who finds themselves in the same situation, the workable solution I found was to abandon the car ramp in place a relatively short length of the original cable sheath (coiled wire housing) at the existing clamp, then clamp the new cable sheath to the original sheath. Not ideal but it works.

You have to clamp the new cable where the original car ramp attaches to the existing cable to keep the mounting situation solid and rigid, and I used two new clamps instead of one to further ensure a secure mounting. I've used the overdrive like this for a few weeks and everything seems pretty solid.
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That seems like the best solution.
 
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Here you go for further inquiries -
 

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Thanks much for the diagrams, Kultulz. I have the solenoid off right now, so it would probably be a good opportunity to access that clamp and bolt.



One question: I bought the BW Overdrive guide from Randy Rundle. I haven't read through all of it yet, but he makes several references to an electric "lockout switch" that's wired between the governor and kick down switch, I think. My car doesn't seem to have one, I don't see it mentioned or diagrammed in the shop manual, my new wiring harness made no accommodation for it and Kultulz' diagram doesn't show it.



Looks like Ford's of my era didn't have it. Is that for an electrically operated lockout control (as opposed to a cable) or is there some other reason for it? Thanks for your help.
 
JimNNN said:
One question: I bought the BW Overdrive guide from Randy Rundle. I haven't read through all of it yet, but he makes several references to an electric "lockout switch" that's wired between the governor and kick down switch, I think. My car doesn't seem to have one, I don't see it mentioned or diagrammed in the shop manual, my new wiring harness made no accommodation for it and Kultulz' diagram doesn't show it.

Looks like Ford's of my era didn't have it. Is that for an electrically operated lockout control (as opposed to a cable) or is there some other reason for it? Thanks for your help.
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The author is referencing all car makers installs? If you come across a definition of the reference, please post it in this thread.
 
JimNNN said:
One question: I bought the BW Overdrive guide from Randy Rundle. I haven't read through all of it yet, but he makes several references to an electric "lockout switch" that's wired between the governor and kick down switch, I think.
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... :confused: ...

- pondering ...
sad2.gif



Here are two different BW diagrams, one showing a seperate switch and one not.



411293




411292
 

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OK, Kultulz, I found a partial answer to my question by reading further. In this reference, however, it's called the "REVERSE lockout switch."The book says:


"If your reverse lockout switch fails there are no new ones available so your best bet is to remove the defective switch and connect the two wires that were connected to each end of the switch. Reverse lockout switches were discontinued on BW od trans. beginning in the early 1950's... your [unit] will work fine without one."



I knew my car didn't have one and that's verified by the book, but I still don't quite understand the function or purpose of the sw. My understanding is the OD was locked out via the governor under speeds of 27mph or so.
 
JimNNN said:
OK, Kultulz, I found a partial answer to my question by reading further. In this reference, however, it's called the "REVERSE lockout switch."The book says:

"If your reverse lockout switch fails there are no new ones available so your best bet is to remove the defective switch and connect the two wires that were connected to each end of the switch. Reverse lockout switches were discontinued on BW od trans. beginning in the early 1950's... your [unit] will work fine without one."

I knew my car didn't have one and that's verified by the book, but I still don't quite understand the function or purpose of the sw. My understanding is the OD was locked out via the governor under speeds of 27mph or so.
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THANX! for finding that. I learned something today ...
 
It's likely the reverse lockout switch was a throwback to the earlier BW ODs. On later models there is an internal shift rail that moves the planetaries out of engagement with the sun gear when reverse is selected. The early ones lacked that feature so the normally closed switch was opened by movement of the 1st/reverse shift arm on the trans. Opening the switch cut the current to the solenoid, disengaging the OD. At some point BW realized the switch was not needed on the later models so it was deleted. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
 
Dobie Gillis said:
It's likely the reverse lockout switch was a throwback to the earlier BW ODs. On later models there is an internal shift rail that moves the planetaries out of engagement with the sun gear when reverse is selected. The early ones lacked that feature so the normally closed switch was opened by movement of the 1st/reverse shift arm on the trans. Opening the switch cut the current to the solenoid, disengaging the OD. At some point BW realized the switch was not needed on the later models so it was deleted. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
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Give the correct answer poster a CUPIE DOLL!!!
 
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