32 rear trans support/torque tube cap bolts

36and63

36and63

Senior Member
The 32 transmission support requires t-bolts to fasten the torque tube cap. I see that the support has the rubber cut out where these are but not sure what keeps the bolt from turning since you cannot hold them with a wrench and they are sort of L shaped. I need to purchase some so I'm just curious how these keep from turning when you tighten them.

Thanks,
Pat
 
Be aware that you must use 7/16-20 castle nuts that are only 5/8" across the flats. There isn't enough room for even a thin wall socket if typical 7/16-20 nuts 11/16" in width are used.
 
DavidG said:
Be aware that you must use 7/16-20 castle nuts that are only 5/8" across the flats. There isn't enough room for even a thin wall socket if typical 7/16-20 nuts 11/16" in width are used.
Click to expand...

Good point..............let's hope Michael D. can bring these 5/8" hex size back after Roy's inventory depleted.
 
Also ,make sure that the bolts are NOT loose in the mount, these keep the driveshaft concentric with the trans output shaft,
Many years and two owners to find this as the vibration cause in our 33.
Lawrie
 
Fellas,

Could someone post a picture comparing the two nuts? I have a bunch of the "L" bolts that I've removed and I've just chucked the nuts into my parts bucket.

I'm having a hard time visualizing the difference between the two. Like they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

Reason I ask, I'm going to be putting my '32 chassis together real soon.

Thanks,
 
I agree with Tim, I’m putting mine together from parts and never seen it assembled so pics would really be helpful. I was thinking the L headed bolts protrude towards the rear and they attach to the cap.
Thanks, Pat
 
The two different sizes of 7/16 castle nuts look identical in overall appearance but one is 1/16" wider across the flats. A reasonably accurate ruler or calipers will reveal the difference instantly.


The U-joint cap attaches to the L-headed bolts, not the other way around.
 
Unfortunately Vanpelt does not have of the original L bolts for this after checking this morning, using a 7/16 fine thread bolt I’m thinking I could modify and weld some material to shape or hold in the rubber- anyone doing this or are you just using a regular fine thread bolt without issue?
Thanks,
Pat
 
36and63 said:
Unfortunately Vanpelt does not have of the original L bolts for this after checking this morning, using a 7/16 fine thread bolt I’m thinking I could modify and weld some material to shape or hold in the rubber- anyone doing this or are you just using a regular fine thread bolt without issue?
Thanks,
Pat
Click to expand...

Pat, let me go through my stash. You really need that "L" bolt or machine/make one. It's the "L" portion that holds it from spinning in the rubber mount.

I'd like to have two spare sets in my stash. If I do, I'll have some extras for you.
 
Be aware that there are two different lengths of those bolts with the L-shaped heads depending on the version of the cap. The original '32-'34 version used with a stamped steel cap is 1.29" long. The version of the bolt used with the two-piece cast iron caps is longer and not suitable for use with either a one or two piece stamped steel cap.
 
DavidG said:
Be aware that there are two different lengths of those bolts with the L-shaped heads depending on the version of the cap. The original '32-'34 version used with a stamped steel cap is 1.29" long. The version of the bolt used with the two-piece cast iron caps is longer and not suitable for use with either a one or two piece stamped steel cap.
Click to expand...

Thank you. Yes, I have both from different trans mounts I've picked up along the way. I wondered why some where longer.
 
DavidG said:
Be aware that there are two different lengths of those bolts with the L-shaped heads depending on the version of the cap. The original '32-'34 version used with a stamped steel cap is 1.29" long. The version of the bolt used with the two-piece cast iron caps is longer and not suitable for use with either a one or two piece stamped steel cap.
Click to expand...

So, if one is not worried about being correct, could one use the cast cap verses the stamped one in a '32 chassis?
 
DavidG said:
The two different sizes of 7/16 castle nuts look identical in overall appearance but one is 1/16" wider across the flats. A reasonably accurate ruler or calipers will reveal the difference instantly.


The U-joint cap attaches to the L-headed bolts, not the other way around.
Click to expand...


David,
Castle nuts? I thought they were slotted hex nuts? I ask as I am out and am trying to source some or have them made..
 
'32 and early '33 were castle nuts transitioning to slotted hex nuts for the rest of '33 and beyond. The same for all nuts used with drilled shank bolts throughout the '32-early '33 chassis except for the drag link/tie rod studs which used special low crown slotted hex nuts throughout '32-'34.
 
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