1948 ford convertible top cylinders

skidmarks

skidmarks

Well-known member
Helping out a friend with a project that was torn down 30 plus years ago.

1948 ford convertible.

Were the hydraulic top cylinders mount to the floor. Is there a spacer or bushing on each side of the iron bracket in the floor that the cylinder is anchored to.

With just a pin , the cylinder is pretty loose.
 
Skid marks, all mine had was two pins, I guess there is a little movement at the anchors because of the movement in the top assembly when you are traveling on the road.just a guess but I have owned mine since 1955 so I am assuming that was original.
 
My guess was it needs some slop being aluminum and the top frame being all steel that if it got out of alignment and in a bind the weakest point would be the aluminum base of the cylinder.

The iron mounting bracket has a slight counter bore that gave the impression like it could of had some kind of a bushing or spacer
 
skidmarks said:
Helping out a friend with a project that was torn down 30 plus years ago.

1948 ford convertible.

Were the hydraulic top cylinders mount to the floor. Is there a spacer or bushing on each side of the iron bracket in the floor that the cylinder is anchored to.

With just a pin , the cylinder is pretty loose.
Click to expand...

In 1940 they had a rubber bushing in there. Nearly every car I've restored those bushings were long gone or only a slight fragment remained.
 
Kube,is much more knowledgeable than I am, but I did look at a Ford bulletin showing the hydraulic system for 46-48 and it only showed pin but there still could have been a bushing of some sort.
The play is very slight so I doubt it would be a concern.
 
flathead48 said:
Kube,is much more knowledgeable than I am, but I did look at a Ford bulletin showing the hydraulic system for 46-48 and it only showed pin but there still could have been a bushing of some sort.
The play is very slight so I doubt it would be a concern.
Click to expand...
I was careful to state 1940. I know little about post war cars. I could only hazard a guess there would be some type of bushing there. If not, it (canister) would rattle.
Of course common sense did not always apply to how these cars were designed and built.
 
What size pin is in a 40 vacuum cylinder?

On the floor iron bracket, it does have a slight counter bore on the hole so it might have had some kind of insulator.

With the hydraulic cylinder centered, there is about a 3/16 space on both sides
 
skidmarks said:
What size pin is in a 40 vacuum cylinder?

On the floor iron bracket, it does have a slight counter bore on the hole so it might have had some kind of insulator.

With the hydraulic cylinder centered, there is about a 3/16 space on both sides
Click to expand...

Gosh, without looking, I seem to recall 3/8"???
 
For detailed drawings of the convertible top mechanism, order a 44-52 Ford parts catalog. It is V-44 at C&G (800)266-0470, $56.I used my copy to help restore my '47 ragtop. While the cylinders were there, they were lying on the floor when I bought the car. Close inspection showed that time and the corrosive effects of the fluid made replacement necessary. I ordered mine from a place called Hydro E Lectric.at 800/343-4261. They furnished the cylinders, pump, piping, and a new pump.
 
The 47 that I am currently working on had no bushings either. That being said I had a couple of aluminum bushings made at a local machine shop and the fit is perfect. To me taking up the slack just makes sense.
 
I was thinking that maybe they are loose because the aluminum base on the cylinder would be the weakest point versus the top irons that if it got in a bind the bottom of the cylinder would break.

Might just be over thinking it
 
supereal said:
For detailed drawings of the convertible top mechanism, order a 44-52 Ford parts catalog. It is V-44 at C&G (800)266-0470, $56.I used my copy to help restore my '47 ragtop. While the cylinders were there, they were lying on the floor when I bought the car. Close inspection showed that time and the corrosive effects of the fluid made replacement necessary. I ordered mine from a place called Hydro E Lectric.at 800/343-4261. They furnished the cylinders, pump, piping, and a new pump.
Click to expand...

Second the recommendation for Hydro E Lectric. I got new cylinders from them as well as the parts to rebuild my original pump. A note of caution. My system still had the original brake fluid as the "hydraulics" for this system. If yours does too, be very careful you don't get any on your paint!:eek: I'm using ATF as a substitute and it works great and won't spoil you paint job.:)
 
RKS.PA said:
Second the recommendation for Hydro E Lectric. I got new cylinders from them as well as the parts to rebuild my original pump. A note of caution. My system still had the original brake fluid as the "hydraulics" for this system. If yours does too, be very careful you don't get any on your paint!:eek: I'm using ATF as a substitute and it works great and won't spoil you paint job.:)
Click to expand...

Aren't there rubber parts in those cylinders?
 
Kube said:
Aren't there rubber parts in those cylinders?
Click to expand...


I don't think there are in the replacement cylinders, Mike, but you do need to replace the hoses as part of the rebuild. At least that's Hydro E Lectric says for pre-1953 cars who want to convert to ATF.


Rebuilt mine about four years ago and so far so good!! But, you raise a good point if you're only doing the cylinders.
 
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