Speaking of shocks . .

They all came from the factory with shocks. Many people pull them off when they failed and did not get them repaired. They were originally filled with glycerin which attracted moisture and they rusted internally. That is why finding serviceable ones that can be rebuilt is so difficult now. There are new ones being made now.
 
Yup, new shocks are pricy but you can install modern shocks the vendors sell or modify Armstrong shocks from an MGB. There are also friction shocks. This all depends on how correct you want your car to be.
 
I substituted my tourer shocks for MGB shocks, they go okay. For my ute I purchased post manufacture shocks, more of a modern shock, and they were hard and uncomfortable to ride on. I removed the front set and the ride improved. I think I will now remove the rear set for I feel it would ride better again.
 
And speaking of shocks, I just blew out my tubular shock link on my new to me 30 Town Sedan. I hit a manhole cover that had been damage by probably a large truck. I hit it so hard that I thought the front wheel would have been bent but the only thing I can find so far is the shock link went by bye. Possibly the shock is also history.
The odd thing about it, I don't think the "missing link" makes much difference in how it rides. Only thing I have noticed is that when I hit some ruts just right, I get a little wobble in the front end.
I am going to file a claim with the City of Tehachapi for damage to an antique automobile. Wish me luck!
Tom L.
 

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I have set up car gas shocks at a 45 degree angle to reduce the amount of dampening and put a set of friction shocks on the front. about 100 worth of shocks and links. I made the brackets.
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We are fooling our selves here.

You need shocks on you car, end of story.

If you can afford the cost of correct style shocks, they really help the ride. You need to have good springs also.

Your car does not need to be a show winner to ride and drive correctly. It does need good brakes, rebuilt front end, good springs, and good shocks. Otherwise, I would leave it home.
 
WHN said:
We are fooling our selves here.

You need shocks on you car, end of story.
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Plus 2 on that. Friction shocks have a lot to recommend. Not 60-40 like the system was originally designed to be, but can provide consistent-repeatable critical dampening to a system that cries for dampening as an augment to control.



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Joe K
 
Had to fab up mounts to correctly align friction shocks for the rear,they bolt right up on the front.Takes the 'jar' out if the initial shock,dampens rebound..
 

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Yes, like the others said. You need to drive with shocks. Mine didn't have them, when I got it and I once tried to drive without them. Don't do that. You don't wanna hit a bump on a little higher speeds then. The whole car wobbles like hell.

I put Delco shocks from a 1939 chevy truck in mine. They're little harder than the original Houdaille and it keeps the Model A stiff and nicely on the road.

I built a mount for the front to put them on the top of the frame rails and connected them with the wishbones (as i can't use my original shock balls on the perches, cause I customized them to fit the original brakes with a dropped axle). The back ones mount on the side of the frame and go to the axle.
 

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With rusty springs on my '31 shocks aren't needed for dampening, the springs hardly flex.
 
Even if the springs are rusty and hardly flex , you can still get a lot of bounce from the spring shackel movement . Friction shocks may not soften the bumps much better but stabilize the ride as well as any other shocks that I have used .
 
katy said:
With rusty springs on my '31 shocks aren't needed for dampening, the springs hardly flex.
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X2. Most of my shock absorbing for the truck/occupants on my late 30 CCPU is in the seat cushion/springs. :) Am thinking of adding a few of those home improvement store 40 lb sandbags in the truck bed.
 
Drove my roadster for Over 5 years without them.
Finally put some on and there is no difference. It has always handled well
 
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