First Flathead Build

Men in Alaska just pick them up off the floor and throw them in the back of the truck!
Yes, I’ve done it before. :)
 
Block upside down. Run a fan belt (cushion it with a rag) through the center main cap and hook it to your hoist hook.



Terry
 
Not to hijack my own thread, but I’m planning ahead. When the engine is done I’m planning to get a T5, rebuild it, and mate them up. Then I’m thinking of rear end.

Question: should I do an s10 rear for ease of use? Or should I pick up the banjo rear that is available right now locally for $150?

I’m worried that the banjo Rebuild will be more than I want to spend.

Input appreciated


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An open later model rear end takes some work just to install. Have to have spring mounts and everything (there are bolt in kits). Or you can convert the banjo to open drive, but that requires addition of radius rods. Or you can modify the T5 to bolt up to the torque tube on a banjo. Any way you go requires some work and modification.
 
I’m kind of leaning towards an early s10 ******, driveshaft and rear. Keep it as simple as possible.


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What exactly is this but on the intake for? I’m having a hell of a time getting it off.
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I’m aiming to drop everything off at the machine shop on Friday. Going to get a 3/8” threaded rod with some nuts and washers after work today. Then get the block off the stand and remove the idler gear. That’s the final piece before it’s game time.


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That stud at the front is where the generator bolts on. There's not normally any reason to remove it. The nut should come off, though, of course.

Mart.
 
I’ll keep working on that nut.

In the meantime, time for liftoff!
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Got it on a temporary bench
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And put together a makeshift slide hammer
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That didn’t work, so tried to turn it out using a little bucket
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Let’s just say that the bucket list this round. Back to the drawing board
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The oil pump idler pulley setup is different on the 8BA from the earlier 32-48 engines. Frank Oddo in, "Ford Flathead V-8 Builder's Handbook 1932-1953," recommends using a drift punch to drive the shaft out from inside the block. George McNicholl in, "How to Build Ford Flathead V-8 Horsepower," recommends using a 3/8 UNC bolt 1 1/2" long and a thick flat washer to pull against using a slide hammer with jaws to pull against the flat washer. Good luck with your project.
 
Zeke3 said:
The oil pump idler pulley setup is different on the 8BA from the earlier 32-48 engines. Frank Oddo in, "Ford Flathead V-8 Builder's Handbook 1932-1953," recommends using a drift punch to drive the shaft out from inside the block. George McNicholl in, "How to Build Ford Flathead V-8 Horsepower," recommends using a 3/8 UNC bolt 1 1/2" long and a thick flat washer to pull against using a slide hammer with jaws to pull against the flat washer. Good luck with your project.
Click to expand...



I’m worried about punching it out as I’d hate to damage it. Is this a part that should be replaced every time?

I’m planning next to make a puller out of a piece of strapping with a few bolts, thread the bolt I have up the middle, and screw it out.

If that doesn’t work I’ll get drastic.


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I don't think you necessarily need to remove it. If it rotates freely with no discernable wobble, and the teeth are in good condition you could leave it in place.

Just my take on it.

Mart.
 
Mart said:
I don't think you necessarily need to remove it. If it rotates freely with no discernable wobble, and the teeth are in good condition you could leave it in place.

Just my take on it.

Mart.
Click to expand...



The machine shop is going to bake the block so I’m not sure that leaving it in is ideal.


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Big day! Got the works dropped off at the shop. I’ll know next week what the actual condition is.

Billy (the son) owns it now, but Ted is still there and he cut his teeth on flatheads. Very happy having them so close to the house

Stay tuned!

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