32 Model B spark then no spark ?

T

tiger.1000

Well-known member
Having difficulty starting my 32 Model B 4 cylinder.
Removed distributor car and flicked the points...a very weak and barely visible spark.
Had a spare coil so replaced it. Not much difference.
Replaced contact breakers and condenser....no improvement.


Removed HT lead from spark plug to distributor car and cranked engine. Very weak spark....would not start.


Tried again. a big fat spark and engine started and ran, idled and ran sweetly. Turned ignition off and tried to start it.
Nothing......!


Is it likely there is a break in the HT lead from coil to distributor and something simple???


Any clues ?
 

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If you put the high tension lead across an ohmmeter it should read zero ohms if it is good. any other wires on the coil have to have good connection plus the ground wire on the coil has to have a good ground. The ignition switch is part of the system so check for loose wires there and the switch has zero ohms when in the "ON" position. The wires on the rear of the ammeter also need to have a good connection. and if you have the starter switch on the starter there is an additional wire there, beside the battery cable, that has to have a good connection. Check wires with your fingers to make sure the wire has not come loose from the wire terminations. A jumper wire is a good way to connect a known good ground to a wire that is supposed to be grounded for testing.
 
First of all, I agree with the above; very nice car. I once had a similar problem with an "off-topic" car (a Corvair of all things). Sometimes it would start and run sometimes nothing. It turned out to be a hairline crack in the coil tower where the lead from the distributor plugged in. I think it had something to do with the weather, as it usually failed when it rained. I finally found it by trying to start the car in a pitch black garage and seeing the spark going to ground on one of the primary terminals. It may not be he exact problem, but it may allow you to see what is really going on.
 
Do you think there might be a problem with the ignition switch? I wonder if providing a hot wire straight to the coil (or ballast) would help in diagnosing the issue.

Or the ballast, maybe. It could be something to do with that.

Mart.
 
I'm not sure if this applies since it a different type of switch but

I had the same problem with my '32 Plymouth.
It turned out that the ignition switch would go from good to intermittent
to bad then back to good again. I bypassed the switch and found the problem.
 
Looking back, I too, had a problem with an intermittent ignition switch in a '36 Ford I owned.
 
Thanks Barners,


At present I am suffering from a debilitating disease which is affecting my capacity to function both mentally and physically. Hopefully there is and will be a cure but at present I can barely put one foot in front of the other. Anyhow I need to fix the car and if possible would need step by step guidance on all of the advice that barners have offered, as in what meter to put where, which wire to connect to what and so on. Pictures would help please.


Regarding the ignition switch; is it easily removable or serviceable with major work ?


Thanks in advance.....worry ye not, I will soon be back to creating lots of Ford related junk !
 
David,


An original '32 ignition switch on the back of the steering column support is easily dismantled as it is held both together and in place with two flat head slotted screws. Possible faults within include, a worn brush either on the contact points or excessive wear in the slot in the plastic on the back of the brush where the pin from the lever shaft inserts and worn or corroded contact points on the plastic switch back (on the side opposite where the threaded wire terminals are located).


Wishing you a speedy recovery.
 
Thank David,


We have nearly 100 degrees here at present so when it's cooler I will tackle that first!
Good wishes appreciated.


David
 
Thanks Pete....


Mustered up enough energy this morning to crawl under the dash. Interestingly one of the cables at the back of the ignition switch was loose. Tightened and started first time.
Got my pal to drive it for 7 miles and so far, so good !
 
tiger.1000 said:
Thanks Pete....


Mustered up enough energy this morning to crawl under the dash. Interestingly one of the cables at the back of the ignition switch was loose. Tightened and started first time.
Got my pal to drive it for 7 miles and so far, so good !
Click to expand...


Can I be your Pal? ;)
 
Glad to hear the problem is solved. This shows the value of a forum like this. When I had the faulty ignition switch on my '36, I chased the problem for weeks.
 
Interestingly; at the end of May I started a thread about the car backfiring and popping through the exhaust. Last night whilst feeling sorry for myself I recalled when as a teenager back in the sixties that in order to anny the neighbours; whilst cruising along we would often turn off the ignition for ten seconds or so. When switched on again there would be an almighty "BANG".....this memory brought me to look at the ignition switch and find the loose cable.
 
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