Replacing Wood In a '30 Blindback

Cape Codder

Cape Codder

Well-known member
I would like to hear from any amateur who has successfully installed the wood in a '30 Fordor Blindback or maybe even any '30 Fordor although I don't know if they are comparable.

I would also like to know if you used a kit and if so where did you purchase it OR did you cut all your own wood?

As a side note to this post, does anyone know if there is any difference between a '30 Tudor Sedan header and a '30 Fordor Sedan Blindback header?

As usual thanks for your time!
 
Ford Dearborn and Ford assembly plants built near all the tudor sedans. The design used minimal wood for the era. Briggs and Murray built most of the fordor sedans and they used a lot of wood. I can't help much with any install or fabrication questions since I haven't done any fordors yet. Yours is likely a Briggs steel back type. This outfit fabricates wood for them but I have no idea of their quality or fit. The site may give you some needed info though. https://fordwood.com/index.html

The Model A Restoration series of books likely has some good info about the fordor cars if you get the right book of the series. Maybe another Ford Barn Member can help you more than I.
 
rotorwrench - thanks for your response!

I'm sure disappointed that I have had two responses to this thread (one via PM and the above one) with a total of 173 views with no one that has done this job. Or are several of the ones that viewed this thread have the same body style AND in the say position I am in?
 
I do not think this site is a hotbed of full on restorers & a blindback or even the 3W Fordors are not that common now. The expense of full restoration is now off putting. I would say someone who can work with wood would be into fabricating their own pieces for a Fordor. Maybe someone in your local Model A Club has had some experience in this. They are a practical & nice looking style & worth the effort. I had an early '31 Canadian Fordor once & would like another one now! Good luck. -Tom.
 
I've done a '28.
It's rather frustrating unless you pull it down to the frame.
Made my own wood, and the 'pro's' on the internet dissed me for using tools wielded by mortals rather than whatever they use.
Claim that doing joinery with a saw & chisel isn't 'correct' and that where i removed wood by drilling & then cleared with a chisel is "Oh so bad, such cheating".
Hah. Too bad, for them.

I don't know any difference in the headers, all i know, is be prepared for many hours work & fine tuning the fit.
 
I would sure think that Brent would weigh in. You might try sending him a message. I am sure he has had some experience with that model.
 
TerryH said:
I would sure think that Brent would weigh in. You might try sending him a message. I am sure he has had some experience with that model.
Click to expand...

I don't mind, but I was kinda thinking the first sentence of his post was put there to disqualify me from commenting. :D
 
dumb person said:
I've done a '28.
It's rather frustrating unless you pull it down to the frame.
Made my own wood, and the 'pro's' on the internet dissed me for using tools wielded by mortals rather than whatever they use.
Claim that doing joinery with a saw & chisel isn't 'correct' and that where i removed wood by drilling & then cleared with a chisel is "Oh so bad, such cheating".
Hah. Too bad, for them.

I don't know any difference in the headers, all i know, is be prepared for many hours work & fine tuning the fit.
Click to expand...

Dont know model a wood, but I do know woodwork. Have been building fine furniture for more years than I can count. I can assure you that there is nothing wrong with drilling a hole then squaring it up with a good chisel!! Nothing wrong with cutting a tenon with a saw either. Both of these methods have been in use for centuries.
 
Many years ago i was able to look closely at the wood frame of a '35 chevy pu. For someone that is not a woodworker I would say to stay away from this job. If you have above average to master woodworking skills then it can be accomplished. In the case of the afformentioned chevy, the wood was complete but rotted. Original pieces were used as patterns. IF you have that priviledge then all the better. The wood is rather cheap. I am assuming that ash or oak or similar is used. I can buy that kind of stuff rough sawn all day long for pennies. Then again i have a full shop of planers, moulders, joiners, bandsaw, etc. etc. What you are paying for in a kit is the persons knowledge and patterns basically. I believe there is still a bit of work involved in making things fit properly. I wish you were closer and would love to help you out. I would love the challenge of rebuilding one of these.
 
I did the rear header over the back window the bows and front header. I used North Carolina wood. The rear piece was difficult due to fasteners being covered by sheetmetal. I used small metal plates bent to fit and wood screws to secure the wood the best I could. ⅞
 
This forum has amateurs and professionals alike. I wouldn't turn down info from anyone myself. Info is freely given so try not to limit who it comes from or you will miss out. Many of the professionals can and do give a lot wider variety of information. We are all lovers of old Fords here.
 
There are three wood providers listed in the "sticky" at the top of our forum. I am sure they would be willing to answer kit/ cost/ questions with you. Not for a 4 door, but I have worked with Classic Wood and have had great results.
 
FIRST, I want to thank you all for responding to my post with your ideas and suggestions!

To BRENT I want to say I'm sorry for the way I worded the post but what I was trying to do is to get ideas/suggestions from people like myself that have never done this job. There are so many questions I have i.e. door post dimensions between each or do I use whats there although doors don't open as they should? Removing CENTER door post required if just removing rails on top of doors?

Again, thanks to you all.
 
Cape Codder said:
FIRST, I want to thank you all for responding to my post with your ideas and suggestions!

To BRENT I want to say I'm sorry for the way I worded the post but what I was trying to do is to get ideas/suggestions from people like myself that have never done this job. There are so many questions I have i.e. door post dimensions between each or do I use whats there although doors don't open as they should? Removing CENTER door post required if just removing rails on top of doors?

Again, thanks to you all.
Click to expand...


It is definitely not a problem. You and I have chatted several times off-line so I feel certain that you know that if you have a question that you are more than welcome to call or write.


Since there are always people lurking in the background with similar questions & thoughts, let me say this. It has often been said that the ONLY difference between an amateur and a professional craftsman is the professional knows how to cover up his mistakes. :D I highly encourage anyone unsure whether they are capable of repairing or replacing the wood themselves to understand it is not that difficult to do. It is just very time-consuming. Mistakes will be made requiring a 'do-over', but that is not the end of the world. Slow & steady is the key to success in this.
 
My nephew and I installed new wood in my '29 Briggs Town Sedan a few years back. Like so many other tasks associated with rebuilding one of these old gentlemen, replacing the wood is probably the most time consuming and frustrating tasks that you will encounter - but it is not without its rewards either. If you do not have basic wood-working skills, or if the wood in your car is severely rotten or missing altogether, then it would probably be best to obtain a new wood kit. In the alternative, many of the more basic wood components are fairly straight-forward to re-make, but the door posts and some of the door frame pieces have a number of "extra" opportunities. Even with a kit, it will still more than likely be necessary to fit each piece as you go, and to make modifications, then re-fit, and go through this same process for possibly two or three more times before you are able to get a solid fit for everything. I was amazed at how flimsy the metal and the wooden sub-frame each seemed, until the two were mated - then it became amazingly solid! Replacing the wood is not a weekend task, but by the same token, it is one that I think could be undertaken by most anyone with patience and at least minimal woodworking skills. Good luck to you whatever route you decide to take.
 
When I last checked, the only difference in wood kits would be the Standard has a center mounted interior light (same as coupe). There is a special wood block that attaches to the center roof stays. The Deluxe has the regular interior light over the rear window.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top