First Flathead Build

A little progress. Got the mushroom off
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Then got the two sheared bolts drilled out. Damned if I can find my extractor set though...
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Next problem. I don’t have a socket that can get onto these cam gear bolts! The small gear is interfering...
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And finally, it just occurred to me that I have no idea where to hook the engine lift to, now that it is stripped down!


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Extractor is not the way to go on a head bolt. Not finding it is most likely a blessing! You break off an extractor and you just complicate the problem and it is highly unlikely it would work anyway. Best method is to weld a nut to it and turn it out that way. The cast iron in the block will not be bothered by the weld and the heat will break the rust bond.
 
There is a lock plate with tabs that bend up to the flats on those bolts. Must tap those down flat. I use a 1/2" 1/4 drive socket to remove those bolts.
 
I'm no expert, but get along real well. Try different sockets, you'll find one that gets in there on those bolts. And if you don't have a little MIG welder, well you need one and that broken bolt is your justification.
 
JSeery said:
Extractor is not the way to go on a head bolt. Not finding it is most likely a blessing! You break off an extractor and you just complicate the problem and it is highly unlikely it would work anyway. Best method is to weld a nut to it and turn it out that way. The cast iron in the block will not be bothered by the weld and the heat will break the rust bond.
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That is great thanks. I don’t have a mig so maybe time to get a little unit... I’ve got a big stick welder but the new garage isn’t wired for it yet.


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About welders; I had a 250 AMP Miller "buzzbox" for years and used it a lot. It was great for building frames, etc., but there was a lot it couldn't do. I eventually ended up buying 220 volt Hobart MIG. I was never particularly enamored with it, but it got me through. A couple of years ago, I became intrigued with the newer, smaller stick welders using Inverter technology, rather than transformer. I ended up buying an Everlast unit from Amazon, so I could have regular arc capabilities, as well as being able to upgrade it to a TIG. What I found was that "regular" arc welders have a lot more capability these days than the old "buzzboxes" did. The main thing is you are able to use both straight and reverse polarity on DC and regular AC. That, and a thorough knowledge of the welding rods available and their properties and intended purposes opened up a whole new world for me. Do you know you can "stickweld" aluminum? You can with the proper welder and rod. The welder, though made in China, is of high quality and quite reasonably priced. I am going to update it to a TIG someday, but the tank, etc. will cost almost as much as the welder did. I hardly use my Hobart at all lately.
 
You should be able to get to the cam bolts with a small offset ring spanner. Don't know what it would be called there in the usa. Like said above, make sure you've knocked the tabs back first.

I've lifted a bare block before now by bolting an open end spanner (wrench) between the most central inlet manifold bolt holes. big washers under the bolt heads, just bolt the spanner down and lift on the central part of the spanner.



Mart.
 
Mart said:
You should be able to get to the cam bolts with a small offset ring spanner. Don't know what it would be called there in the usa. Like said above, make sure you've knocked the tabs back first.

I've lifted a bare block before now by bolting an open end spanner (wrench) between the most central inlet manifold bolt holes. big washers under the bolt heads, just bolt the spanner down and lift on the central part of the spanner.



Mart.
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Great tip, thanks! I’ll probably do just that.

For the record I’m from the colonies so am well aware of spammers, shifters, and the like


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Progress!

Did someone recommend a 12” x 3/16 drill bit? Because that made short work of drilling out the lifter bores!
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I also got the cam gear off (using the box spanner).
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Next up I’m going to strip the heads. It’s interesting to note the differences between the two sides.
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Oh and trying to extract the sheared bolts definitely didn’t work. Broke my extractor in two.
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This is the kick in the pants I need to get a 220 outlet installed for my welder.


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Question; the machine shop I’m going to use does a back/shot blast process. I’m going to have them do the block, heads, etc. Should I break down the water pumps and have them do those too?


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What did we say? Don't use an extractor!

Now the machine shop will have to get the stud and half an extractor out.

Unless you got lucky and it came out.

Good luck with the rest of it.

Mart.
 
Water pumps will have to be rebuilt so no reason to blast those. If you send them to a rebuilder they will take care of all that.

Heads are built differently because the distributor bolts to the right head front and the oil filter bolts on to the left head on rear.

Do a search there are several Rebuilders of water pumps on the Ford Barn.
 
Mart said:
What did we say? Don't use an extractor!

Now the machine shop will have to get the stud and half an extractor out.

Unless you got lucky and it came out.

Good luck with the rest of it.

Mart.
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I know I know.... I’d already drilled the hole so thought I’d give it a try


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sharp21 said:
Oh and trying to extract the sheared bolts definitely didn’t work. Broke my extractor in two.
983e174281f6ecb4f3dba70ebbdf5684.jpg


This is the kick in the pants I need to get a 220 outlet installed for my welder.

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Click to expand...

I told you! :) you didn't lesson did you.
 
Finally got this bolt that was in the head to break loose. Turns out all it needed was a gallon of 50/50 and 200 hammer strikes.
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And with that the only thing left to remove is the oil pump idler gear in the back of the block. I don’t have a slide hammer so am gonna see if the shop will do that for me.

And now for my next problem: what do I hook my hoist to in order to lift the block?


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Intake manifold bolts (more than one), bolt holes on the front of the block, etc. Depends on the orientation you want the block in. There are two sets of holes on either side of the timing cover that are not used for anything that can be used if you are wanting to pick it up from the front end. Bellhousing bolt holes in the back if you want to pick it up from than end. So, just depends on how you want it to end up.
 
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