56 ford carb swap

A

atlucchetti

Junior Member
If I install a modern Holley 480cfm carb on my 292 ci engine will I be able to use the original oil bath air cleaner. I converted the oil bath to a dry type air cleaner. Does anyone know if the 1957 Thunderbird air cleaner will work on a new Holley.
 
Because the original carb (Teapot style) is tall and the original oil bath air cleaner drops down below the 5" neck of the carb, it will not work with a more modern Holley. Not sure about the T-Bird air cleaner, but probably the same issue.


Sal
 
My 55 bird had the original carb and a reproduction dry element air cleaner. As Sal described, it didn’t clear a modern carb. I modified the base and was able to use it.
 
The carb the OP is describing will be the same as the 1957 BIRD H4150 install, so the '57 BIRD ACL should fit with no problem (even retro-fit an earlier year H4150 install).

It is the H4000 ACL types (as mentioned) that will give fitment problems (taller).

I have often wondered ( :rolleyes: ) why those dressing a Y-BLOCK never use the '57 BIRD ACL instead of aftermarket.
 
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atlucchetti said:
If I install a modern Holley 480cfm carb on my ('56) 292 ci engine . . . .
Click to expand...
Do you still have the original Loadomatic distributor on the engine? .. photos 1 & 2
(It may have a single or dual vacuum advance canister.)
If you do the chances are very good the timing won't advance correctly. .. photo 3
.
 

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KULTULZ said:
...
I have often wondered ( :rolleyes: ) why those dressing a Y-BLOCK never use the '57 BIRD ACL instead of aftermarket.
Click to expand...
The stock style '57 T-bird air cleaner sits quite low around the carb and often interferes with the primary fuel bowl inlet of later carbs unless special fittings are used. The oem '57 T-bird carbs have a lowered inlet.
With a stock air filter in place the distance between the top and bottom of the ACL housing is maybe 5/8 inch, not much for air flow. The 3 raised spots in the lower piece are to keep the carb vacuum from sucking the top down and blocking the air altogether. In photo 4 the double nuts on the air cleaner center hold-down stud are substituting for the 3 raised spots that aren't on the earlier(?) air cleaner base.

In very good condition they are also quite expensive.
https://www.classictbird.com/Air-Cleaner-Assembly-57-Reproduction-1-Per-car/productinfo/9600%2D57/

<edit>
The large cork front lip would be unnecessary in anything but a '55/'57 T-Bird. It touches the underside of the hood and helps block hot air coming off of the radiator, in preference to cooler air from the hood scoop.
The size and shape of the housing likely contributes to additional heat soak of the carburetor.
.
 

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dmsfrr said:
The stock style '57 T-bird air cleaner sits quite low around the carb and often interferes with the primary fuel bowl inlet of later carbs unless special fittings are used. The oem T-bird carbs have a lowered inlet.

With a stock air filter in place the distance between the top and bottom of the housing is maybe 5/8 inch, not much for air flow. The 3 lumps in the lower piece were to keep the carb vacuum from sucking the top down and blocking the air altogether.
Click to expand...

... hmmpf ...

THANKS for the education. I keep forgetting about the low BIRD hood line.

So you are saying the BIRD specific H4150 has a lowered fuel inlet on the front bowl? I did know know that.
 
KULTULZ said:
...
So you are saying the BIRD specific H4150 has a lowered fuel inlet on the front bowl? I did know know that.
Click to expand...
The Holley List number for the '57 T-bird carbs was #1272 manual trans or #1273 auto trans.
Yes, the fuel inlet is 1/2 to 1 inch lower, compared to most newer Holley carbs.
 

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The 57 Bird air cleaner will fit the later Holley's. As noted, there may be interference with the fuel inlet, but a kit is available(from CASCO) to overcome that.
 
Thanks guys for all the good info. I am also replacing my 1956 loadomatic distributor with a distributor from a 1957 292ci. I am outfitting the distributor with the pertronix #1281 ignitor and a pertronix flame thrower coil. My question is, do I now get rid of the resistor and if so what do I do with the red and black wires that were connected to it? Thanks again.
 
Assuming you have the coil matched to the pertronix, you send 12V directly to the "+" side of the coil through the ignition switch. The red wire from the Pertronix connects to the same "+" side of the coil and the black wire connects to the "-" side of the coil.
 
Kultulz. I get a kick out of your sayings. About the wife. I especially like the one about going from 0 to 150 in 3 seconds.yikes.....
 
reddog565 said:
Kultulz. I get a kick out of your sayings. About the wife. I especially like the one about going from 0 to 150 in 3 seconds.yikes.....
Click to expand...

As long as she doesn't break my SUPER SECRET PASSWORD here, I should be OK. She swings a mean iron skillet ... :eek:
 
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