Electric Gas cut off

I installed one from Snyders and I had problems with not enough flow to keep the car running. I was trying to stop gas from leaking when the car sat overnight. It turns out my real problem was a faulty shutoff valve which was less than a year old. After the car kept stalling I gave up and removed the solenoid - it was a total was of over $80 in my opinion. I now close the manual shutoff valve when ever I stop the car for any period if time and I have had problems (after installing a new shutoff valve).
 
lorenallen said:
I installed one from Snyders and I had problems with not enough flow to keep the car running. I was trying to stop gas from leaking when the car sat overnight. It turns out my real problem was a faulty shutoff valve which was less than a year old. After the car kept stalling I gave up and removed the solenoid - it was a total was of over $80 in my opinion. I now close the manual shutoff valve when ever I stop the car for any period if time and I have had problems (after installing a new shutoff valve).
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New shutoffs can be bad out of box, I have had very good luck ordering from Brattons, made in the U.S. guaranteed for 3 years. If not currently using, recommend using the pencil type gas filter that mounts into the inlet of the Shutoff valve. #1 issue that ruins good shutoffs is debris/grit/rust from the tank getting into and ruining the valve.


https://www.brattons.com/fuel-tank-filter-screen.html
https://www.brattons.com/fuel-shut-off-valve-under-the-gas-tank.html
 
The other issue you have is the carb float valve is not seating properly. I have had good luck with the Viton tip, and adding Marvel Mystery oil to the gas on every tank to counteract gasohol damaging the Viton tip.


Also inspect the float where the float valve rests/pushes on the float to seat the float valve. After a long period of time the float valve can wear into the float, stick, and the valve will not close/seat properly.


Get eh shutoff working properly. Then leave it on overnight and then concentrate on the float valve.


Either way it is a good idea to turn off the shutoff If both shutoff and float valve are working properly, should not have an issue.


Additionally some like to run the carb dry after turning off the shutoff.
 
Jim in S.C. said:
I use one on my pickup. I couldn't just wire it to the ignition switch. It would kill the current going to distributor. I had to put a toggle switch to operate the valve. If there is a way to hook it up to the ignition switch would someone please share the wiring diagram with me.
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Could be done with a horn relay, but the ignition switch provides only intermittent ground through the points. Stick with your toggle switch.
 
Jim in S.C. said:
I use one on my pickup. I couldn't just wire it to the ignition switch. It would kill the current going to distributor. I had to put a toggle switch to operate the valve. If there is a way to hook it up to the ignition switch would someone please share the wiring diagram with me.
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This is the instruction sheet that came with my cut-off. It simply changes the switched wire on the coil from the ground (points) to the hot and then you can add the solenoid on that same switched lead. Took me about 15 minutes.
Ignition3.jpg
 
We have a couple. One has been on a Slant since the mid 90's no problems.
Wired to main cut off switch circuit so on when you turn on switch and off... well ya know.
 
I have an electric shut off in my late 160A and it has float-a-Motors in it( to which I do NOT like). the gas line broke three times. I was very lucky I caught it and carried a spare stock gas line. I redid the gas line and ran a stainless braided hose from the switch to the Carburetor. I have ran it for over 10,000 miles without any problems.
 
About eight years ago I filled my Roadster gas tank, then hurried home to park it in my three car garage before going for dinner. I always shut off the fuel valve when parking but was in a hurry this time and forgot. Came back a few hours later and had a full tank of gas on my garage floor. The float had a pin hole in it and leaked the gas. I called our local rural fire department for help and they came to my rescue, but not before some very anxious moments.
I immediately installed an electric shut-off valve. I don't remember who I bought it from (probably Snyders) and installed it in the passenger compartment between the tank and the firewall. Whenever I turn the key on I hear it click telling me it is still working fine. Not a moments trouble and great peace of mind. I still shut off the manual valve and have still not forgotten my earlier experience.
Be safe,
George
 
Never tried one All my A's have been 1930 or earlier so when I stop the car I just turn off the gas valve which conveniently is under the steering wheel on a RHD. However if I ever has an indented firewall A then I think I would be sorely tempted to install an electric shut off rather than lifting the hood every time I parked the car
 
I wanted the electric shutoff so I could eliminate going around to the right side, lift the hood and open or close the gas valve on my S/W Town Sedan. I purchased one from Snyder's last year and installed it on the S/W in prep for a road trip we took early this year along the east coast down to the Keys and back up the Gulf side. The solenoid heated up and caused a dead short on a busy street in downtown Key West. A bit of confusion and commotion but the issue was soon found as it was so hot I burned my hand when I gave it the "how hot is it" test. I removed it and made the assumption that they were just junk. I did purchase the "economy" one they offer but it was still about $80.00.
From all the positive trouble free posts on this thread about these valves, I should give it another try. Maybe I will spend the extra $45 and get the more expensive one.
Good Day!
 
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Dave in MN said:
I wanted the electric shutoff so I could eliminate going around to the right side, lift the hood and open or close the gas valve on my S/W Town Sedan. I purchased one from Snyder's last year and installed it on the S/W in prep for a road trip we took early this year along the east coast down to the Keys and back up the Gulf side. The solenoid heated up and caused a dead short on a busy street in downtown Key West. A bit of confusion and commotion but the issue was soon found as it was so hot I burned my hand when I gave it the "how hot is it" test. I removed it and made the assumption that they were just junk. I did purchase the "economy" one they offer but it was still about $80.00.
From all the positive trouble free posts on this thread about these valves, I should give it another try. Maybe I will spend the extra $45 and get the more expensive one.
Good Day!
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Buy 2, keep a spare in the car?
 
I had one on my indent Tudor for 9 years. The only problem I had was a couple times in the past couple of years it had to be disassembled (on the car) because the sol would stick, gummed up from the crap gas even though I always used MMO and StaBil or SeaFoam. FWIW
Paul in CT
 
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