Bolt inside water pump

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Bill S

Senior Member
On a 50 Ford when installing a new water pump when the engine is in the car what is the trick to get the bolt that is inside the pump in place since you can not see inside to align it where the thread hole in the block is? I am almost to the point of putting a stud in there.

Thanks again
 
I've watched uncle do it several times, he puts the bolt in a socket, using a short extention and threads it right in there, and with the other bolts in place that one is already lined up.
 
The bolt goes thru the un-threaded hole in the pump that aligns it to the threaded hole in the block, you don't have to see anything.
 
I am having a problem trying to locate the unthreaded hole in the pump once it the pump is mounted on the engine.
 
One solution would be to use a dab of contact cement or silicone in the socket, let it dry over night and then use a short extension to insert the socket with bolt by hand without using the ratchet handle. Put that bolt in last before you tighten down the other bolts..

It's difficult to insert that bolt if you don't keep the bolt angle perpendicular to the block surface. Having to bend over the car makes this a little more difficult if you have never done it.

You could also hold the bolt in a drill chuck and file a tapered point on it so it would be easier to insert.

Be sure to use anti seize on that bolt and use a stainless bolt if you have 2. Don't over tighten. I used a bronze bolt i found somewhere.
 

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Some folks like myself just like the satisfaction and feel of initially threading a bolt with a bare hand. But then are disappointed to find that a meaty-fingered hand just won't fit inside that pump inlet. What's a meaty-fingered tactile bolt-threading person to do? Well, I guess you could bite the bullet and use a socket with an extension like I did. Or you could get some tactile satisfaction by using a 3/8" shoulder bolt from HomeDepot or an old lawnmower wheel. 8^) Jack E/NJ
 
Do not tighten the external bolts prior to inserting the concealed bolt. Use a six point socket with a 3"-4" extension, use a small piece of paper torn from a shopping bag, hold the paper over the socket, press the bolt head into the socket, bolt is now locked into the socket without the use of glue, therefore it is easily removed.
Use anti-seize on the bolt threads. Don't over tighten, a short 3/8 ratchet is all the torque needed.
 
blucar said:
Do not tighten the external bolts prior to inserting the concealed bolt. Use a six point socket with a 3"-4" extension, use a small piece of paper torn from a shopping bag, hold the paper over the socket, press the bolt head into the socket, bolt is now locked into the socket without the use of glue, therefore it is easily removed.
Use anti-seize on the bolt threads. Don't over tighten, a short 3/8 ratchet is all the torque needed.
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I concur as I've used that tactic often, in other unreachable spots. As there is a possibility of the paper hanging with the bolt head, then getting out of reach of a tweezer, etc, I think an inch and a half of masking tape applied sticky side to a clean socket, might be an even better choice.
 
Did you check the threads in the block with he pump off. I tried to install a Champion spark plug in a truck at work until I finally noticds they forgot to install the threads on the plug!

You should be able to easily install the bolt by hand with a socket and extension on it. If not, glue the gasket to the pump with Gasgacinch so it cannot slip out of place. Hold the pump away from the block a little so you can see the bolt line up with the threads in the block and start it in few turns. Then install the other bolts and tighten them all up evenly.
 
My problem is trying to locate the hole in the water pump. If it means anything the radiator is still in the car.
 
For the inside bolt, I use a 14mm 6-point metric socket because it fits the bolt head more snuggly.
 
Hi; On the quality of those hardware Stainless bolts. I have an example I show, of two yrs corrosion on a "Stainless" bolt, 9/16th" head became a 1/2" head. Fastenal has Marine grade Stainless bolts, a better alloy than the Hardware stores. Brass is an option, but I wonder about strength. Newc
 
Newc said:
Hi; On the quality of those hardware Stainless bolts. I have an example I show, of two yrs corrosion on a "Stainless" bolt, 9/16th" head became a 1/2" head. Fastenal has Marine grade Stainless bolts, a better alloy than the Hardware stores. Brass is an option, but I wonder about strength. Newc
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I wonder is that wear on your stainless bolt wasn't from electrolysis? Even the regular bolt heads don't seem to rust away inside there. I've taken a part about twenty flatheads so far and all of the internal water pump bolt heads looked pretty good, even when the water jackets were plugged with rust I had no problem getting those bolts out. It could be some kind of galvanic action between the cast iron block, water pumps and the stainless bolt?
 
A while back there was a thread on this topic, stainless steel used for the inter water pump bolt. Dissimilar metals was considered a reason to not use stainless inside the block. Another reason would be a stainless bolt is weaker that the original bolt.
 
JSeery said:
A while back there was a thread on this topic, stainless steel used for the inter water pump bolt. Dissimilar metals was considered a reason to not use stainless inside the block. Another reason would be a stainless bolt is weaker that the original bolt.
Click to expand...
Yes, this was caused by the SS lock washer under the steel bolt.
 

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Is there an alloy of stainless bolts that would be ok to use?
Seems like maintaining your coolant at the correct Ph is very important too.
 
There is really no reason to not use a quality standard steel bolt, I see no advantage to using stainless and some disadvantages. And yes there are different stainless alloys.
 
it’s not as hard as you are making it regular grade 5 bolts work just fine and the thing you have to remember is lots of patience
 
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