Tudor Value

You can go to Italy for 3 weeks and it will cost you about 5k a week; you can take that car and put 10k or 15k in it and drive it on a tour of 3-4 weeks and enjoy it as much and make some life long Model A friends while your doing it.

I have done that with my coupe and my tudor. I would not give up either trip.
John
 
mreman said:
You can go to Italy for 3 weeks and it will cost you about 5k a week; you can take that car and put 10k or 15k in it and drive it on a tour of 3-4 weeks and enjoy it as much and make some life long Model A friends while your doing it.

I have done that with my coupe and my tudor. I would not give up either trip.
John
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Well said, well said. I don't care about losing a little money, especially with all of the experiences that come with these cars which are priceless. At this point, it is very hard to make money from buying a car and restoring it. Most of the times you either break even or are in the red. But if it is from the heart, I guess it does not matter.
 
funny how you guys love to be debbie downers over 1000. bucks........


play a few rounds of golf or go see a shrink and tell me how much that set you back?


whether the car is 4k or 7k- who cares?


are you having fun yet????????????
 
If the wood is bad then it would probably costs more to restore, if you belong to a model a club I bet the members would allow you to check out their cars and you can judge better what might car would better suit your needs
 
Chris I believe if you can be a little patient the right car will find you. But if this car is talking keep listening best of luck to you Joe
 
Fordors and Tudors are both sedans but they are different kind of cars.


Fordors are usually more formal and upscale.


Tudors were the entry level sedan and they sold a ton of them.


Fordors usually have a lot of wood that can be a problem and difficult to deal with.


Tudors are mostly steel with most of the wood in the upper part of the body where it is not as subject to rot. Replacing wood in a Tudor soes not require disassemble of the body itself.


Fordors are a little heavier so for the same horsepower, the performance is not quite as good as a Tudor.


Tudors have big front doors and are easier to get into and out of.


The seats in a Tudor can be easily moved back to give you more leg room.


Fordor seats are more comfortable than Tudor seats.


If you are going to use a Tudor for long distance touring, it is easy to retrofit more modern seats that are more comfortable.


Tudors make very good tour cars. They are lighter, have big front doors, the seats can be easily moved back or replaced (upgraded) and the rear seat area is very spacious so you have lots of room to carry all your stuff.


A Tudor is usually not as valuable that a Fordor in the same condition.


Both body styles have their advantages. You have to decide for yourself what you are looking for and how you are going to use the car.


I think the most important thing is to buy a car that is basically sound with minimal or no rot or rust issues. You have to factor in how much of the needed work you can do and what your expectations are for the car. Beings you already have a Model A, you have an understanding what these cars are all about.


About 5 years ago, I bought a Vicky. It looked decent from 20 feet and was basically sound with very little rust and rot issues. However the brakes were bad, the cooling system was a mess, the rear end leaked very bad, the windows would not work very well, the shocks had been replaced with some old aftermarket friction units, it had some terrible rattles in it. and the engine itself was marginal and it would hardly run.


I have picked at the car over the past five years and have taken care of all the mechanical issues except the engine (which I have the new one all finished and ready to install). I have too much money in the car but I like it and have enjoyed fixing all the stuff that needed attention. To me, that is what is important. I like the looks of the car and it draws a lot of attention when I take it out for a drive. It has even bigger front doors than my Tudor.

Again, these are just my opinions.

Chris W.
 
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If the engine does not have a knock and doesn't drip too much oil you are in the ball park. Take a ride in it and verify that first and second gear are pleasingly quiet. Make sure you have a title if you are in a title state and have the owner sign the bill of sale. Then it is a case of buying what you like. Don't be afraid to offer less, have a maximum amount not to exceed and be prepared to say thank you for your time and walk away. Remember, you are the one who has the power, you are the one with the money! Have fun with it and don't look back. Over the years, I have purchased four antique cars and love everyone of them. Ed
 
I must repeat something a friend told me years ago. “Buy what you want, but keep in mind that there are a lot of A’s out there.” No reason to buy the first one you come across. Have fun with whatever you get. Overall, this is a low cost hobby.
 
As described sounds like an $8Kish vehicle on today's market. Of course, the right price is one that works for both the seller and buyer. Really rough non-running barn finds often go for at least $6K. If it is complete, running, and has no rust throughs it could be a good core to start with. If you can do all the work it is worth considering. Good Luck.
 
Depending on where you live and who you talk to the price can vary a lot. Pay what you feel comfortable with. You don't have to justify it with anybody. After you buy it you will get the question from just about everybody "what did you pay for it?" and you don't have to tell them. I never do. If you do, it will probably be all around town within days and half the comments will be "he paid too much for it" and it really is nobody's business. Save yourself a lot of hassle.
 
The low end for cars like that around here are set by the street rodders.I sold one for a woman a few years ago.They bought it in 1972,and the babbit was knocky.He used it around town until 2014,then it sat in his garage.Early 31 Tudor,lazer straight body and fenders,interior was just indian blankets on the springs.A lot of A guys looked at it and whined and tried to chisel,but that wasn't going to work for her.I sold it to a street rod guy for $6500.I winched it on my trailer and delivered it to him.The same day he sold the fenders and aprons to an original A guy for $1500.He tried to sell the original chassis for a year or so,but got disgusted with some of the offers from the A guys and he gave it to me.
 
Brent, I think most people are able to get a reasonable grip on the cost of Start, Stop and Steer whether it be do it yourself plus some minor machine work or professionally accomplished. The real question of value of a car is the engine, trans. and rear end and the chance of finding that out for certain is after the purchase and at no small cost to the new owner. I don't know about a big time worn out engine that runs good or the same for the trans. & diff. These are potential costs that a buyer should be aware of. What would a person be looking at $ wise if any one (or all) of these were near their end?

John
 
John,
a couple schools of thought on your question to Brent...........


Is the car going to see much mileage on a yearly basis, or sit in the garage and get driven 2k miles a yr in summer?


Guys on here have easily spent 10k on their engines. For the driving I do, Im a firm believer in buying an engine for 250-400. from a rodder, who doesnt want it, install it and drive it into the ground. You can see where Im going with this from a cost basis..........
so everything isnt always black and white and if you dont spend a million on your A, it is going to be a piece of junk.
Showcars, yes, that's a diff story and not most guys here looking for 1000 points.
 
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