Fuel gage question

bmwillia

bmwillia

Senior Member
I have the original hydrostatic gauge for my 33 but the small tube between the reservoir and glass tube is clogged. I am currently soaking it in phosphoric acid, but if I cannot get it unclogged, what are my options for a fuel gauge?

I know I could try to find one that is operational for sale.

I have a newish Drake tank with the same hole as original for the original style pickup/sending unit.

If I wanted to go to an electric gauge do i have to change the tank or is there a sending unit/ pickup combo that will fit in the original size hole of the gas tank?

Would I have to change the tank to use an electric gauge?
 
If you have a wire feed welder and some .023 wire, take a piece of it and probe from both ends. You may have a friend who has some if you don't. I use lacquer thinner and have about a 75-80% success rate after soaking overnight. WEAR GOGGLES and use compressed air from the metal end after you have emptied any liquid best you can. Repeat a few of times before you give up.
With liquid in the glass, tap the brass end with your finger quickly and if the liquid rises you have opened it up.
 
Thanks Deuce.

I saw your post on another thread and I am trying what you suggest. I'm just thinking ahead and as I am about to pull the body to put on body to frame webbing and if I need to change out the tank, now is the time to do it.
 
Also,

I have no cap on the glass tube of my gauge. I am assuming it should be a rubber cap or something like that. Do you know where to get the cap for the glass tube? The gauge repair kits I see only have the brass fittings for the airline from the tank.
 
Originally it had a thick piece of felt looking stuff holding the top of the glass tube in the middle. But it was always open, the end must be open for the gauge to work. There also was a brass clip like thing that was in the hole in the metal body above the open glass tube, to keep dirt out of the gauge.
If you get it opened up, I wish you lived close by, as I have a Ford Script bottle of Ford red gauge liquid, still as red as the day it was made. This stuff might as well be radioactive as there is no safe way for me to send anybody some, it is really quite nasty. It has eaten up many a gauge.
 
Above the glass tube on the outer housing is a cover it is metal, oblong and snaps in position so it can be pried out to allow access to the open top of the glass tube. Good luck finding one. Could use a rope caulk to fill the hole until you do find the cover.
 
Thanks everyone.

I messed around with it today. I think I am making progress. I'll let y'all know if I get it unclogged.
 
Hi,

I've been working on my 1932 fuel gauge today. I have it disassembled and all is going well except for the fuel face-plate, the black insert with the graduation marks. The right side is poor. I have been searching and can't locate this as an available part. The number on it is 4483. Renner's web page shows a rebuild kit but this is not part of it. I also don't need any other parts. This is the item:
 

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Not all gauges have the oblong opening (and cover) at the top of the steel gauge housing.
 
I am making slow progress on mine. I've used mig wire and phone wire. Lacquer thinner and Phosphoric acid.

I used compressed air in the reservoir today and saw some bubbles for the first time in the glass. Its still not open enough to work, but progress.
 
bmwillia said:
I am making slow progress on mine. I've used mig wire and phone wire. Lacquer thinner and Phosphoric acid.

I used compressed air in the reservoir today and saw some bubbles for the first time in the glass. Its still not open enough to work, but progress.
Click to expand...


I have restored many many over the yrs. I now use Brake Clean ,acetone sometimes works.The wire thing only goes in so far and from the glass tube side.Some are so plugged(in the small copper line) that I have to cut the line and clear them with wire that way.I then make a collar(from next size up copper tube)slip it on and solder back together.I use the small paint gun cleaner brushes from Harbor Freight to scrub inside the glass tube and brass hex on back.
 
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Hi David and all,

Any tips for the first fill of the red fluid? Perhaps have two gallons of fuel in tank then add the fluid to the zero mark? Alternatively add fluid so it is 1/8 inch below the zero mark, then close the air line on top and then see if it comes at or above the zero mark?

Thanks,
Glenn
 
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I found out the hard way that the angle of the dash affects where the fluid sits on the zero line. I now check with a Starrett gauge and then hold the gas gauge at the same angle while dripping fluid in until it is at the zero line. (I zeroed a gauge out of the car, installed in the dash and before I hooked up the airline, the fluid was nowhere in sight.)
Then hook up the air line, doesn't matter how much gas is in the tank as it will create pressure after the air line is hooked up and the gas sloshes around a little. That is how the tank unit works.
 
Thanks Duece Roadster for your help,


Yeah I've run into the angle changing the reading when I last added fluid a couple of years back. I measured the angle a few days ago, planning ahead. The angle is 25° lean away from driver for "line of site" I assume.


Glenn
 
a little more progress. After soaking in Phosphoric Acid, Lacquer Thinner, and Brake Cleaner, I am now getting some air bubbles when I put compressed air in the reservoir. Its still not open enough to work, but at least its progress.
 
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