First Flathead Build
- Thread starter sharp21
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Ol' Ron
Well-known member
A word of caution, have the rods cleaned and the wrist pin bushing checked for ware. If over .0015" have them replaced. Now this can be a problem because some shops don't have the proper tools to do this because the bushing have to be waged into the rods. before honing. Fortunately most of the time they don't have to be replaced. Some people just do it because they think it a good idea.
kegmon
Member
If you were able to get that oil pump out without much effort, consider yourself lucky! The real fun comes when you start taking the valves out, but yours may be easy. I had to rent a special tool to remove the cam bearings but that wasn't difficult. Highly recommend thermal cleaning the bare block once you get it all torn down. Good Luck!
Great to know. The pump came out very easily. Unbolted it, a little persuasion with the rubber mallet, and it wiggles right out.
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Roger that, thanks.
I’m on a job in Cali right now but hope to get home for the weekend and keep wrenching
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If in California, try to contact Vern Tardel or San Fran Flatheads.
They were selling NOS french rods for real reasonable money. They are cheaper than getting them reconditioned.
Even if you don't use them, they are good to have. I believe I bought them many years ago when they were selling them for $125 a set. I'm sure the price has gone up since.
JSeery
Member Emeritus
A lot of checking for straightness, twist, proper sizing, that type of thing.
Ol' Ron
Well-known member
The good news is: You very rarely find a bad one. When disassembling an engine i keep the rod sets together along with the crank. This way there is no need to have the assembly re balanced for just a piston replacement. Also if you change cranks the rebalancing is much cheaper. The rods come in balanced sets.
I’ve been keeping track of which cylinder they each cane from so I’ll make sure not to mix them up!
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Got the drivetrain freed up! Crank is spinning easily by hand and some of the valves are moving. The other appear to be stuck open.
Question. I’m not gonna reuse those valves am I? Any problem with given the open ones a tap with the hammer to free them up?
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Question. I’m not gonna reuse those valves am I? Any problem with given the open ones a tap with the hammer to free them up?
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kegmon
Member
There's several ways to get the old valves out and there's lots of threads to search on this forum regarding valve removal. Spray the stuck valves with e 50/50 mix of acetone & transmissions fluid and they might free up. I think most of the time folks end up replacing the valve assemblies (Egge is a good source for these).
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GOSFAST
Well-known member
Hi "sharp", try to find a shop who will use a block-plate to finish-hone the bores, it's fairly important on these Flathead castings!
Also, make certain you have it pressure-tested, do not rely on "magging" only!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Would also strongly recommend some stainless valves and some bronze-lined guides so there will be no valves "hanging" down the road.
Also, make certain you have it pressure-tested, do not rely on "magging" only!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Would also strongly recommend some stainless valves and some bronze-lined guides so there will be no valves "hanging" down the road.
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Copy that Gary, thanks. It’s gonna be a mild build with a focus on longevity, so it’s tips like that I’m looking for.
Sean
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