35 Steering Column Drop Break-off Bolt Removal

Use vise grips on the threaded shank and twist it out little by little until you get a good grip on it. Slot idea works good too.
 
"Kube" - I also respect your opinion. I really wish we could all afford to expend the time and money to do restorations to the standards that you ascribe to. Alas, for most of us mere mortals that are just trying to get our vehicles down the road, that's just not possible. My goal for the next summer is to get my '51 in shape to leave Minnesota, visit some friends in Iowa, stop by the Auburn meet, and continue east for several weeks to visit friends in Maine, Massachusetts, and New Jersey. A real "Dream Trip", in the tradition of "Old Henry". I just wish I can be as good a photographer as he is.

Hopefully, I will run into you somewhere along the way and we can continue this banter.:)

Sly Stone said it best - "Different strokes for different folks"
Sly Stone? NOW you've given away your age!

Good song, good message...
 
Guys....please keep this post on track with suggestions for Jeff (VeryTangled) on how he might attack removing that break-off bolt holding the column drop/steering column to the dash. If you want to "banter" on other subjects, you could always use PM's.

The damaged column drop, that I posted pictures of in an earlier reply, will be properly repaired to be as good as original....but NOT by using JB Weld.
 
I bought this at a swap meet 30-year's ago, not having a clue what it was used for? It said K.R. Wilson on it so I was hoping it was some kind of Ford tool? I'm pretty sure its for taking out the anti-theft bolt. If I turn the outer nut it pushes those teeth forward and they would bite into the broken bolt. Then the bigger nut rotates the teeth which would back the bolt out. I've never tried it. I've never seen another tool like it.
 

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This KRW tool BV-40 is the ignition lock tamper proof stud remover as shown in the 1936 KRW catalog. There is a notation stating it does not fit 1935 models and recommend using an easy-out-tap on them. A rare KRW tool.
 
This KRW tool BV-40 is the ignition lock tamper proof stud remover as shown in the 1936 KRW catalog. There is a notation stating it does not fit 1935 models and recommend using an easy-out-tap on them. A rare KRW tool.

Hey Gary, thanks for identifying the tool. Its a shame it just sits here and will never get used.

A left handed drill bit might take one of those bolts out? We used them for taking broken bolts out at work. You had to drill them out anyway for the easy-out. A lot of times the counter clockwise drilling unscrews the broken bolt right out and you never need the easy-out. Except, this is not a broken thread but a tightened bolt so its not coming loose as easily.

We also welded nuts to the broken bolts if they were broke off in cast iron. A MIG weld will not stick to the cast iron and the heat helps break loose stuck threads.

I smear anti-seize on everything so the next guy will be able to get it a part.
 
So, did you get it out yet?

I think tomorrow is the day for the serious attempts. I don't want to start off on the wrong foot on this job.

It's one more day that I wish I had all the KRW tools to work on these cars! That one flathead fever posted looks like it would do the job lickety split!

Edit to add 24 hours later: After closer reading (thanks for the tip JM) I realize this tool is for another part of the drop, not the mounting bolt I'm after. Alas, still a very cool piece of engineering!
 
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I think I would try the slot idea first and if that does not work I'd use an easy-out. I've had good success cutting screwdriver slots with one of those real narrow Dremal cutoff wheels. You need to definitely where goggles because the cutoff wheels are pretty fragile and easily turn into eyeball shrapnel. Get a tight fitting flat bladed screwdriver that has the built in spot on the shank to put a wrench on so you have some twisting leverage. One hand can forces the blade tight into the slot so it doesn't strip it out the slot. The other hand turns the wrench which reals it loose.

When you buy your screwdrivers make sure they have the spot to put a box wrench on them. Snap-On screwdrivers are the best, they will take out screws others screwdrivers will not but at $20.00 to $30.00 "each" its pretty hard to justify buying them for occasional home use. The ones I have I bought used. Here is a photo of some William brand screwdrivers on Amazon. They have the spot to put a box wrench on the shank next to the handle. It makes a big difference having that wrench on there doing the twisting. They also have the rough finish on their tips which make them grab better.

The other thing you can try is an impact driver to break the bolt loose. The problem with them is half the time they work and the other half they strip out the slot. It depends on the hardness of the screw or bolt.
 

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Hi Everyone. Problem solved, it really wasn't that hard. Once I got a grip that I was happy with, I turned it a little both ways. It felt as if the tool was slipping on the bolt, but it was actually turning! Yippee.

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions!

The penny turned out to be 1948.
 

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Way to go Jeff!! That's a nice collection of Vise Grips!!
I'm thinking the date of that wheatback penny could have been a significant date for the previous owner; i.e. birthday, anniversary, etc. We did things like that for good luck. Sorta like we did as kids by putting pennies in our loafers.
 
Just for purposes of posterity here is a photo of a small nut tig welded to the original column drop bolt to remove the bolt.
 

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since you got it out, cut a slot in it with a hacksaw, then re-use it, get it tight put some puddy in slot; and don't tell anyone
 
Here’s how it’s done.
 

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