Splash aprons need replacement

31Cabriolet68-C

31Cabriolet68-C

Senior Member
Which one of the vendors has the best?
It's such a complex shape there can't be that many suppliers.
Seems to me all (at least on my 31) the aprons have the same design flaw:
The bottom outside edges of the S/As have small curved gutters that ride underneath the inboard edge of the running boards. Dispite a number of drain/weep holes, those 'gutters' are inevitably going to be nothing but tiny rust farms...
Finding a solid original set seems unlikely.
Since my body specialist doesn't have greedy bone in his body, he told me he could fix mine, but I'd be way better off putting my money elsewhere...
I'm going to take a hit on shipping, but....
Thanks in advance for any input/advice.
John
 
John, even the best available body aprons are only 'fair' at best. There is much work that must be done for the reproduction aprons to mimic originals in fit and form. The lip in the bottom is incorrectly shaped, the mounting holes must be punched, and the ends must be fit to the fenders which involves quite a bit of metalwork.
 
John, I bought my 31 splash aprons from Howell's in Beaumont, TX. They seemed to be okay as I never heard any complaints about their fit from my body guy. If there was a problem with fit or correctness of form I would have heard about it.
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
John, even the best available body aprons are only 'fair' at best. There is much work that must be done for the reproduction aprons to mimic originals in fit and form. The lip in the bottom is incorrectly shaped, the mounting holes must be punched, and the ends must be fit to the fenders which involves quite a bit of metalwork.
Click to expand...



I know you have studied the originals in detail....but at least one more recent reproduction has the offset flange at the rear...without that flange, it was almost impossible to get a good fit with the rear fender.
 
ericr said:
I know you have studied the originals in detail....but at least one more recent reproduction has the offset flange at the rear...without that flange, it was almost impossible to get a good fit with the rear fender.
Click to expand...

Fortunately I have been able to find good original aprons to use as samples to modify the reproductions. Also having a Pullmax with custom dies to reshape the lip helps save time also. One area that I think has drastically changed the hobby is the apparent lack of desire for aesthetically authentic items when a car is being restored. Most restorers just excuse it as "I am only building a driver..." and are ok with it not being accurate in form & function.
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
Fortunately I have been able to find good original aprons to use as samples to modify the reproductions. Also having a Pullmax with custom dies to reshape the lip helps save time also. One area that I think has drastically changed the hobby is the apparent lack of desire for aesthetically authentic items when a car is being restored. Most restorers just excuse it as "I am only building a driver..." and are ok with it not being accurate in form & function.
Click to expand...


not to quibble but I see gobs of complaints here about repro parts not fitting well, sometimes not at all.....


out of curiosity, how is the original apron slot where the running board drops in different from a repro?
 
ericr said:
not to quibble but I see gobs of complaints here about repro parts not fitting well, sometimes not at all.....


out of curiosity, how is the original apron slot where the running board drops in different from a repro?
Click to expand...

The lower lip is a U channel on the original and a V groove on the reproduction.
 
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