45B Body Alignment

bobmc

Member
All suggestions welcome!

I have spent two days now attempting to put the coupe body back on the frame. Before removal of the body the door alignment was ok. I took the body off for two reasons. 1st was to check the serial number on the frame, (not a match to the motor) and 2nd to assist in the body work needed. I figured that with the body off frame the job of chassis rebuild and sheet metal/ paint could happen at the same time.

I have learned manny things about the coupe in this restoration. First is that not all repairs made durring its life were made correctly, or even by someone that new what they were doing, mis match parts, parts missing etc.

This brings me to the reason for the post. When the body was removed there were no bolts in the first hole at the cow on either side. Didn't take any out, didn't think to put any back! But when I opend the body bolt kit that I purchased along with the new wood blocks and rubber shims we had front body bolts.

Since there were no bolts in the hole prior to dissassemble I started at the rear of the cow. Figured i could add the front bolts after all others were in. Followed Less Andrews book to a tee. Was able to insert all wood blocks and shims with ease. Crawled out from under the car as was shocked at the alignment of the doors. That is where the majority of the two days have been spent. Adding and removing shimms to make the door fit accecpitable. Nothing's working

Ok when the body was off I checked the frame with a 4 foot level, All I had. The frame had a slight bow at the motor mount, less than 1/16 of an inch. figured that was less than a shimm, and I didn't have the tools to straighten it anyhow. so I let it go.

Now the passenger door is a little above the belt line and the rear of the door, however the drivers side is a 1/4 to 3/8's of an inch higher than the belt line at the rear of the door.

So evey thing I read leads me to believe that I should have started at the cow, since closed body cars shift like a parallelogram the front of the cow needs to come up, so the rear of the doors will come down.

NOW Is the cow supposed to be at a right angle to the frame, or should I use a level to plumb the rear of the cow,door opening or just shimm until the body lines are acceptable?????

If I am having this much trouble with the body I can't wait to put the hood on, and its not even painted yet !!!

Thanks
 
Have you looked at Marco's excellent tutorial?
http://abarnyard.com/workshop/door-1.htm

You need to put bolts in those front body bolt holes, along with shims. There were rubber pads in that location originally and they need to be there now if you're going to get the doors to line up. Start at the very front and work back.

Can you post pics?
 
Luke

I did look at and print off a copy of that post. Thats how I learned about the parallelogram shift.

I understand that I need to start at the cow now, but is there something to say that my beginning starting point is correct? Plumb? right angle to frame? or just shimm until I get the results I am satisified with?

thanks
 
I've been playing with the cowl on my coupe and wondered the same thing about the cowl being at the correct angle to the frame.
My solution was to move even FURTHER forward....install the radiator and shell. Now you can lay the hood between rad shell and cowl and by tilting the shell forward and back you can watch the hood gaps and know when the cowl is right.
I understand the cowl holes at the very front have a round pack of shims which I have to try and get at Portland this year. It would seem that adding and removing from this round pack would give your best adjustment for the tilt. Below is an tattered original shim pack on a 30 roadster.
I'd like to see a NOS original pack, but doubt any exist and so far no luck finding even a picture.
 

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I start at the radiator shell and hood too. I'm not particularly happy with the repro rubber pads as they are soft and not re-enforced with cloth inside. They compress so much they give little support as shims when you pile them up. They look like they will rot in due time too. The original Ford pads get stiff, but they have held up for 80 years. I found fabric re-enforced rubber sheeting at Orchard Supply; I assume most hardware stores carry it. It is neoprene, which is grease and oil resistant, compresses very little and is obviously much tougher than the rubber pads we get as reproductions. I have not seen a NOS Ford pad, but they were fabric re-enforced and I bet they were more like the neoprene sheets I found than the soft pads.
 
Your picture doesn't look like shim packs, looks like 2-3 layers of chassis anti squeak material? JMO
Paul in CT

You're probably right Paul. The shim picture was from the original 30 roadster at the Vancouver 2010 convention. The material you see is actually several layers of cloth re-enforced rubber. I got down close and saw that it appeared to be "circles"...at one time...
The rubber was quite swollen and split all around.
I shouldn't assume everything OLD is original... ;)
 

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