High Oil Pressure?

If the hoses are hooked up wrong the anti drainback valve in the filter will block all oil to your engine except the rear main. Do not even crank it over until you are sure it is hooked up ok.

John
 
I still think it is best to remove the filter and just connect the hoses together until you figure out what is going on. You should also move the oil pressure sender to the post nearest the center line of the engine. It needs to be reading the input to the engine oil galley, not the output of the oil pump.

This is just a side note and not that big an issue, but that is not a 100% remote oil filter system, the oil to the rear main is still by-passing the filter. Not a good or bad thing, just how this approach works.
 
I checked the hookup on the filter against the diagram (thank you Talkwrench) and it was hooked up correctly. Too be on the safe side, I connected the hoses together as you suggested, JSeery and then started it up. Shut it off when it started heading towards 80#'s. Unless you have any other ideas, I guess I'll go talk to the machinist tomorrow. At least I know everything else works. :o Thanks for the help.
 
One last thing is to move the oil sensor to the input to the oil galley so you know what is going into the engine. That would be the inlet nearest the center line. Another way to totally eliminate the modification is to remove the grub from the original oil passage and plug the outlet and inlets in the block to the remote filter (per the figure in post #19). That would convert it back to stock. Then it would about have to be internal if there is still an issue.
 
Brian said:
As the 'machinist' if he stretched the pressure relief valve spring on the pump
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I put in the pressure relief valve and it was new. I also traded out for the old one and still have the problem. Bound to figure it out someday.
 
JSeery said:
One last thing is to move the oil sensor to the input to the oil galley so you know what is going into the engine. That would be the inlet nearest the center line. Another way to totally eliminate the modification is to remove the grub from the original oil passage and plug the outlet and inlets in the block to the remote filter (per the figure in post #19). That would convert it back to stock. Then it would about have to be internal if there is still an issue.
Click to expand...

I'm really leaning towards converting back to stock. I'm going to talk to my mechanic this week and see what we can do, as he did the conversion. I'll let you know what we come up with. Thanks for all the advice.
 
I'm talking about the relief valve that forms part of the oil pump, not the one situated at front of valve chamber...
 
All it takes to revert it back would be to remove the grub in the oil passage and cap off the oil port closest to the centerline on the bellhousing. Should be simple and quick.
 
Here’s what we’ve done. Pulled the intake and plugs and the pressure relief valve (wasn’t stuck). Turned over the engine with the starter and you could see oil going into the cavity for the relief valve. Put the cap on the cavity, cranked the engine and the pressure built up to 6#’s and held. Pulled off the cap and saw that the drain hole was functioning properly. Installed the valve, cranked the engine and the pressure pushed 80#’s before I stopped.
General consensus is that the springs - I have 2 - are too strong. They both stickup 1/2” above the lip of the cavity, but I don’t know if that’s normal. Machinist suggested trim a couple of coils of of the weaker one to see if we could get the pressure to stabilize. That’s this weekends project.
Is there a source to purchase light spring, or is trimming the best option? Also , if the procedure and results above suggest any other problem, please let me know.
 
I suggest you try to borrow a relieve spring set up from a used engine someone may have in your area and try that . You could also remove the oil filter set up and plug the block where the lines were connected and see what the results are. That should narrow the possible problem down. JMS. kerk.
 
Kerk said:
I suggest you try to borrow a relieve spring set up from a used engine someone may have in your area and try that . You could also remove the oil filter set up and plug the block where the lines were connected and see what the results are. That should narrow the possible problem down. JMS. kerk.
Click to expand...

Just be sure to remove the grub in the passage way as well or there will only be oil to the rear main!!!!
 
To me, his picture in post #12 and the drawing in post #19, look like the lines aren’t run the same. His pic looks like the out to the filter is got his sender in it...Mark
Or, maybe it doesn’t matter.
 
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I had a similar experience to 37Flat with oil pressure on my '54 Ford NAA tractor. If I remember correctly, (it was several years ago) I had just finished changing the oil and filter. Upon re-starting, the oil pressure gauge went full-scale in a few seconds and stuck there. I didn't resolve the issue, but continued to use the tractor on a limited basis for several years now. It does burn considerable oil, which might be attributable to too much oil pressure? I'm sure it needs an overhaul, but I wonder about the oil pump relief valve. Does anyone think excessive oil usage can be attributed to too much oil pressure?

I have never serviced the oil pump, and the engine has only been apart once, in the 1972 time frame, to replace a stuck and damaged valve. I also renewed the rings and rod bearings. It ran fine for years, using it mostly for gardening and bush-hogging several acres. I need to rebuild it, but have a later tractor that I use mostly, a '76 Ford 5000 diesel.
 
Well, turns out it was the relief valve (front of engine, my oil pump doesn't have one). Decided to trim the spring down, put it back together, cranked it up and the pressure is good and steady. No idea why, but glad it works. Thanks to everyone for all the great information and ideas.
 
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