interesting cutoff switch

Am I correct in thinking this is probably rated at 100 amps at 24 volts, ...or about 50 amps at 12 volts which is equivalent to about 25 amps on a 6 volt system??
 
SeaSlugs said:
found this while looking for work related stuff:
https://www.mpja.com/Battery-Cutoff-Switch-100A-12_24VDC/productinfo/34780+SW/
cant say ive ever seen one with a lever. Might make for a hidden rod operated one, easier to kick on off with a foot, might be easier to operate in a push pull fashon for people with arthritis.

$15 and flat rate $6.95 shipping... they sell all sorts of electrical stuff for cheap.
Click to expand...

Just don't use it in California! As soon as you cross the state line, this device will give you cancer! The official know-it-all State of California says so!!
 
This is what I am using.. It was given to me by an Auto-electrician friend of mine.. Turn left to isolate battery, turn right to connect.. Very discrete and hidden.

Steve:)
 

Attachments

  • Battery.jpg
    Battery.jpg
    40.5 KB · Views: 178
Steve: I used one of those and have a friend who did as well. We both had a real power loss due to the tiny contact area when switch was on. At 6 volts you can't stand much loss. Got worse over time too. Hope yours works for you. Bill
 
It is bulkier than the usual switch. As far as the capacity, fwiw, it says it is for heavy duty and it only has to cut off the full current once to do its job!
 
I do not like the idea of an overall cutoff switch because of the added electrical resistance. The key to a successful 6 volt electrical system is to use the heavier gauge wire as originally prescribed and ensure the connections are tight and the insulation is good.

Because the ignition switch carries only the ignition current, the concern may be (if the electrical system is properly maintained) to have a separate "accessories" switch to ensure there is no current drain when the car is parked. I refrain from using an accessory switch and just ensure the wiper and lights are off.

My biggest concern was the reluctance in early automotive days to use separate lower amperage fuses for lights, wiper and horn. Two or three 15 amp fuses would suffice. I ended buying and installing in my '29 Tudor an early Volkswagen Beetle bakelite fuse box because it looked "period". I use it to separately insert fuses for the lights, horn and wiper much like a later car.

Because a reliable electrical system is essential for enjoyment of the car, I am curious as to your thoughts on this?
 
"Because a reliable electrical system is essential for enjoyment of the car,"


Avoiding burning your car to the ground because of an electrical short qualifies in my book for "essential for enjoyment of the car".



In any case, the cut-off MUST be placed in the GROUND line, and it MUST be placed so that it is easily accessible, not hidden under the floor or inside the hood or some-such.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top