Head/Stud Removal with Head on!

Joop

Joop

Well-known member
Head/Stud Removal. It Worked Thanks

Got an answer from our Model A guru already but like to know if someone had the same problem.
.

I want to remove one stud from the engine (with the head on) to install an original stud for a steering column Red Ball Temperature Gauge from the Boyce Motometer Co.
I have tried to remove it with a double nut but it will not move.

It Worked! Thanks for all your help.


Joop.



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Last edited:
Joop, do you have a picture of the end of the Red Ball Temperature guage? The only ones I've seen had a bulb that was mounted in the top radiator hose.
 
Here you go Tom


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Have you tried a stud removal tool?
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I'm not 100% sure you'd be able to get a good purchase on the stud with the tool since the head is still in place but it'd be worth a try.
 
Snap on Tools makes a set of stud removers of four different sizes that will work on every stud on a Model A. We have used them many times.
 
Joop,

Very nice looking gauge !

Not trying to be a wise-guy, but have you tested that gauge / sending unit ?

Seems we only hear about guys guys trying to find repair on dead ones...

As for the stud removal, is another stud location an option ?
 
I have a working Red Ball like you show with the special stud but declined to use the stud as I believe the sensor would be to far removed from the actual water to provide an acurate AND timely reading. What I did was, had a friend make a new sensor socket to replace the stud on a lathe. It will accept the sensor and screw into a standard temp. sensor fitting that screws into the block or the radiator hose fitting. It didn't seem to hard to turn one out of hex material. As a poor college student alterative a long time ago, I took a lug stud (same threads as the top of the special stud), drilled it out to allow the sensor bulb to slip in. Then drilled 2 head nuts the same. I then cut the lug stud off it's base and welded the stud, 2 drilled nuts and a third nut together in a stack. This ,in effect, duplicated the top of the special stud and can just be screwed on the stock stud of your choice, it worked but still did not address the remoteness of the sensor to the water. Good luck.
 
Special Coupe Frank said:
Joop,

Very nice looking gauge !

Not trying to be a wise-guy, but have you tested that gauge / sending unit ?

Seems we only hear about guys guys trying to find repair on dead ones...

As for the stud removal, is another stud location an option ?
Click to expand...

Hi Frank

I want to put it where it was originally done (the left rear stud)

The gauge works perfect.
 
What about welding a nut to the stud, using the quality six point, long, closed end wrench, instead of muscling the wrench, tap it with a sizable hammer. Alternating tapping loose and tapping tight while applying penetrating oil. I have 100% success using this technique on rusted brake bleeders.

GW
 
What you need is a collet type stud remover...Snap-on sells an excellent set, expensive but not prohibitive. This grips the actual threads with its own threads and then tightens like a regular collet, resulting in an unbelievably strong grip.
Ford also supplied its own version of this.
This is the absolute unquestioned best known stud puller.
 
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