water pump bolt

1931 flamingo

1931 flamingo

Well-known member
Before I try to change the waterpump on the 59AB engine in my 40, what is the size (thread pitch and length) of the "hidden" bolt??
Had the driver's side let out a horrendous noise while coming back from a ride y/day, lots of leakage :eek::mad:. New pumps ordered.
Thanks in advance
Paul in CT
 
Init1 said:
Use a stainless allen head. No washer.
Click to expand...
And make a note with a yellow junkyard paint pen that there's an allen head in there. Since I can't see crap anymore I would be goin' at it with a 9/16 and eventually drill it out.
 
1931 flamingo said:
Before I try to change the waterpump on the 59AB engine in my 40, what is the size (thread pitch and length) of the "hidden" bolt??
Had the driver's side let out a horrendous noise while coming back from a ride y/day, lots of leakage :eek::mad:. New pumps ordered.
Thanks in advance
Paul in CT
Click to expand...



Paul you should have no problem removing the original bolt as mentioned earlier use a six point socket. No need for the stainless bolts or allens a good quality bolt will work perfectly if you find the one you remove is in need of replacement. The size of the bolt is identical to the three exposed you remove
Ronnieroadster
 
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Just curious why the allen head would be better? When I pulled my motor the second time to do a frame off, I replaced the allen head bolts with stainless hex heads. I don't like 12 point sockets. (not sure why they make them)



Certainly anti-seize on that one, be kind to the next guy :). Well... I do it on most engine bolts, just because it doesn't hurt anything. (note*** torque settings change with anti-seize applied, it acts like a lubricate, heads more notable but probably not that significant for the average bear).




You can fix most stuff on the side of the road with a 1/2 and 9/16s on a ford, maybe a 5/8s wrench. If you need more, ya might need to get into a shop then too.





.
 
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One thing to keep in mind is stainless will break a lot easier (lower torque) and higher grade standard bolts.
 
What are the thoughts on using a nickel bolt? Some have suggested a bronze bolt in the past but the nickel bolt appears to have more strength (I think ��).

JB
 
torque values are around 20lbs. If you use a wood bolt you are probably in trouble. Stainless on that bolt is not a bad idea, same for some anti-sieze.


But.... 30-80s yrs from now! Who cares :)
 
The 20 ft/lb value is dry torque, lubricated (anti-sieze) would be around 17. Iĺl be the odd man out here, I would not (and do not) use a stainless bolt in the internal water pump location.
 
you are certainly not wrong JS. I just don't think its that dire of a decision. Agreed a regular bolt will be fine for a long time, I also don't think you could definitely say a stainless bolt will be bad 5-80yrs from now. Torquing it to 15-25 probably wont hurt anything either.
 
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Those original bolts have been in there for upwards of 70 years. I have never had one I could not get out.
 
My only really issue is the stainless is not needed and any issues I have ever had with broken bolts have been stainless. So, I tend to stay away from them. If you torque them properly and keep in mind they are stainless, should do fine. My memory is not always that great, so easier to just stick with high grade standard bolts.

¨Those original bolts have been in there for upwards of 70 years. I have never had one I could not get out.¨

Yep, same here.
 
I have pulled apart maybe 20 engines and have never broken a water pump hidden bolt or an exhaust manifold bolt. All of these were from really long sitting trucks. I've never bought a runner. The hidden bolt looks like it would be a huge problem, but in my experience, they just unscrew.
 
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