Breaking Into An Open 55 Ford

L

L5wolvesf

Member
Hi all, I’m attempting to figure out what my 55 was before the prior owner(s) did what they did to it. So I want to decode the Data Tag – the one on the driver’s door pillar. Problem: the door won’t open, so I go to the other side roll down the driver’s window and give it a tug – no go. I fiddle with the lock button some and give a bit more of a tug – still no go. Since the lock button felt like it was barely doing anything I got the key – the key won’t turn. Prior to being parked where it is now the lock and door functioned properly.

Today I shot a bit of WD40 in the key hole and opened up my Ford Shop Manual. But the FSM really doesn’t have a useful (in this case) diagram of the internals of the door mechanism. Since the front door panels are off, I was hoping to see what I might be able to do from inside the door. I suspect that something may have sagged (for lack of a better term) and is preventing movement.

So, the question seems to be . . . Does anyone know how to break into a 55 Ford – from the inside?

Thank you
 
Need more info. What did "the prior owner(s) did what they did to it." What did they do exactly. IF they attempted to make a convertible out of a sedan by cutting the top off, then yes, it probably caved in the the center.

The converts had a different frame than the sedans. The were reinforce so they didn't bend in the middle, like I suspect yours did...

Might try putting a jack under the middle to try to get the door open.

 
Y-Blockhead said:
Need more info. What did "the prior owner(s) did what they did to it." What did they do exactly. IF they attempted to make a convertible out of a sedan by cutting the top off, then yes, it probably caved in the the center.

The converts had a different frame than the sedans. The were reinforce so they didn't bend in the middle, like I suspect yours did...

Might try putting a jack under the middle to try to get the door open.
Click to expand...

Not as bad as cutting the roof off. But the floors were replaced with old signs and the body work (like filling in the trim holes) is terrible - I may have to replace one front fender. I'm not sure the body bent since the body gaps aren't noticeably different/off. But just in case I'll try the jack under the middle thing.

Thank you
 
May I suggest you get a spray can of PB Blaster (Walmart or most auto parts stores)
Spray the door latch mechanisms, inside the door, with liberal amounts of Blaster.
Keep trying to get the inside door lock to free up and move up and down again.










.
 
When you use the inside handle what does it feel like - since the panel is removed you should see it pulling the mechanism at the latch. Is it doing this?


While not familiar with the 55 door latches, what I have found that there is a rod connector between the lock and the latch. Something may be off (not connected) that is preventing the door from becoming unlocked.
 
If the car is not a sedan or wagon, you might be able to remove the interior upholstery panel from inside by first removing the metal garnish molding, door handle, window-crank and armrest, then remove two screws at the bottom with a phillips screwdriver. Then use a brake adjusting tool to stuff the bent end of the tool in between the door and the upholstery panel and pull the panel clips out of their holes at both front and back sides of the panel. Then you should be able to pull the panel inward enough to clear the door handle & window crank shafts while pulling the panel straight up (which will pull the panel bottom clips out of their keeper pockets. Might be a lot easier to remove the front seat first.
Afterward, first thing I would do is shine a flashlight in thru the big square hole aiming toward the back to see if somebody drove a screw thru the door structure into the rear quarter. If not, you can dismantle the door mechanism from inside to get the door open.
 
L5wolvesf said:
Hi all, I’m attempting to figure out what my 55 was before the prior owner(s) did what they did to it. So I want to decode the Data Tag – the one on the driver’s door pillar. Problem: the door won’t open, so I go to the other side roll down the driver’s window and give it a tug – no go. I fiddle with the lock button some and give a bit more of a tug – still no go. Since the lock button felt like it was barely doing anything I got the key – the key won’t turn. Prior to being parked where it is now the lock and door functioned properly.

Today I shot a bit of WD40 in the key hole and opened up my Ford Shop Manual. But the FSM really doesn’t have a useful (in this case) diagram of the internals of the door mechanism. Since the front door panels are off, I was hoping to see what I might be able to do from inside the door. I suspect that something may have sagged (for lack of a better term) and is preventing movement.

Step 1: Throw that WD-40 into the bushes and get some real penetrant, like PB Blaster or Kroil.
Step 2: Get a flashlight and a mirror on a stick and check the latch for disconnected linkage. Use the other door to see what should be there.
Click to expand...
 
Most all of the Fords cars in that era had a similar latch mechanism. It's likely the type with the rotating star wheel that meshes with teeth on the door jam. They have a metal arm that actuates the latch on the inside and a simple lever actuated by the door handle button on the outside. I'd hate to have to destroy a door panel but that would be better than destroying the sheet metal of the door or B pillar. Something is likely broken in the latch mechanism. Now finding out what is another matter. Then how to manipulate it to get it to free the latch is yet another. You will have to have access to the latch somehow. The door will have to be opened up to repair it since some of the screws are in the door jam area. If you take the lock knob off the shaft, you can drizzle penetrant down in the general area of the latch and possibly free something that might be corroded or crammed with debris or the like.

Most body types are obvious on the mid 50s types. They only made one fordor, one convertible, and one wagon. The tudor had three or four different types if I remember correctly. Any other changes were upper or lower trim levels on the different body types like customline, mainline, crestline, etc.

I would have to assume that you want to know the trim level and what type of running gear it had when new.

PS: I forgot the 2dr wagon types so add that in there too.
 
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First, thank you to all who have replied.
Second, I do have PB Blaster which I use when things are rusted. I didn’t think this was a rust issue so I went with WD40. I’ll be using whatever it takes, including elbow grease, to get things moving.


paul2748 said:
When you use the inside handle what does it feel like - since the panel is removed you should see it pulling the mechanism at the latch. Is it doing this?

While not familiar with the 55 door latches, what I have found that there is a rod connector between the lock and the latch. Something may be off (not connected) that is preventing the door from becoming unlocked.
Click to expand...

I’ll have to check out what is moving, and what isn’t, this weekend. As 40 Deluxe suggested, I’m going to study the passenger side door first to get an idea of what is in there and what it does. Thank you


Daves55Sedan said:
If the car is not a sedan or wagon, you might be able to remove the interior upholstery panel from inside by first removing the metal garnish molding, door handle, window-crank and armrest, then remove two screws at the bottom with a phillips screwdriver. Then use a brake adjusting tool to stuff the bent end of the tool in between the door and the upholstery panel and pull the panel clips out of their holes at both front and back sides of the panel. Then you should be able to pull the panel inward enough to clear the door handle & window crank shafts while pulling the panel straight up (which will pull the panel bottom clips out of their keeper pockets. Might be a lot easier to remove the front seat first.
Afterward, first thing I would do is shine a flashlight in thru the big square hole aiming toward the back to see if somebody drove a screw thru the door structure into the rear quarter. If not, you can dismantle the door mechanism from inside to get the door open.
Click to expand...

Mine is a 4 door Customline and the door panels have been off for a while and stored so they don’t get worse than they are. The door had been able to open within the last year or so. Good to know I can dismantle the door mechanism from inside to get the door open. Hopefully I can get it open before having to do that. Thank you


40 Deluxe said:
Step 2: Get a flashlight and a mirror on a stick and check the latch for disconnected linkage. Use the other door to see what should be there.
Click to expand...

Yes, I should have thought of that. Thank you

rotorwrench said:
Most all of the Fords cars in that era had a similar latch mechanism. It's likely the type with the rotating star wheel that meshes with teeth on the door jam. They have a metal arm that actuates the latch on the inside and a simple lever actuated by the door handle button on the outside. I'd hate to have to destroy a door panel but that would be better than destroying the sheet metal of the door or B pillar. Something is likely broken in the latch mechanism. Now finding out what is another matter. Then how to manipulate it to get it to free the latch is yet another. You will have to have access to the latch somehow. The door will have to be opened up to repair it since some of the screws are in the door jam area. If you take the lock knob off the shaft, you can drizzle penetrant down in the general area of the latch and possibly free something that might be corroded or crammed with debris or the like.

Most body types are obvious on the mid 50s types. They only made one fordor, one convertible, and one wagon. The tudor had three or four different types if I remember correctly. Any other changes were upper or lower trim levels on the different body types like customline, mainline, crestline, etc.

I would have to assume that you want to know the trim level and what type of running gear it had when new.

PS: I forgot the 2dr wagon types so add that in there too.
Click to expand...

Yes, mine has the rotating star wheel and teeth on the door jam. The door panels have been off for a while and stored so they don’t get worse than they are. I like the “drizzle penetrant down in the lock rod” idea. Yes, I want to know the trim level etc it came with. Thank you
 
You lost me there. If you already know it is a 4 dr Customline, that IS the trim level, or am I missing something.

The models in order are Fairlane, Customline, and Mainline. The Fairlane Crown Victoria is the only special trim level I know of.

Maybe I am not understanding what you want to know.
 
That tag should indicate type of engine and transmission it had too. It may also have the colors of paint and trim if it's like other year models I'm more familiar with. The door has to be opened anyway just to use the car.


If the latch control arm connected to the door handle assembly is pulling the mechanism and it is still not releasing, the star wheel may be frozen in place due to excessive wear or corrosion. Getting a good penetrant in the latch assembly is a must. If you pull on the handle and apply pressure with a porta-power from the opposite side B-pillar it might move it. Just don't get carried away without good support of the load bearing areas. Jiggling the door in and out may get it to free up. It's going to be a challenge but you should be able to get it open as long as the latch is releasing the star wheel.
 
Grumpy Rick said:
You lost me there. If you already know it is a 4 dr Customline, that IS the trim level, or am I missing something.

The models in order are Fairlane, Customline, and Mainline. The Fairlane Crown Victoria is the only special trim level I know of.

Maybe I am not understanding what you want to know.
Click to expand...

The car needs some work done and, re the tag, I want to know what original paint and interior color(s) were.


rotorwrench said:
That tag should indicate type of engine and transmission it had too. It may also have the colors of paint and trim if it's like other year models I'm more familiar with. The door has to be opened anyway just to use the car.

If the latch control arm connected to the door handle assembly is pulling the mechanism and it is still not releasing, the star wheel may be frozen in place due to excessive wear or corrosion. Getting a good penetrant in the latch assembly is a must. If you pull on the handle and apply pressure with a porta-power from the opposite side B-pillar it might move it. Just don't get carried away without good support of the load bearing areas. Jiggling the door in and out may get it to free up. It's going to be a challenge but you should be able to get it open as long as the latch is releasing the star wheel.
Click to expand...

Between the rains here I was able to go out and look at the doors a bit closer. I had forgotten the rod between the handle and the lock mechanism is between the interior panel and the inner metal skin – so easily visible. It is intact and I gave it a few shots of PB. Today I should be able to give it a bit more time, PB etc. Thank you
 
L5wolvesf said:
The car needs some work done and, re the tag, I want to know what original paint and interior color(s) were.
. . .
Click to expand...
Here's a link to an old data plate decoder document. You probably have this info already, just thought I'd share this one...

Both links go to the same document, I wasn't sure which would work better so I included them both.

https://thecvaonline.com/howtos/DataPlateDecoder.pdf

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...eDecoder.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0lmYa8BdW092ayUQXnYQzY
 
I successfully got the door open Sunday. It took a while because of work, weather and whatever is “going around” dropped by for a visit. Prior to Sunday I was able to spray on some PB Blaster (to go along with the WD40 from earlier), but I can’t say which one ultimately loosened things up enough to free up the mechanism.

For future reference . . . access to spray was mostly easy. The inner door handle to just about the door jamb is only covered by the interior door panel (not within the door skin) – so the handle mechanism and pivots were essentially out in the open. Next I was able to spray the mechanism inside the door jamb by squirting through the rectangular opening above the rear pivot (see pic). And, I was able to spray the outer door handle’s inner workings by squirting through the hole where the lock button pops up. But that is only possible if the inner window frame is off.

With that done I put eyes on my data plate (see pic). I now know what the car was like when it left the Dallas factory on July 15th – less than 3 months before I left “the factory”(a.k.a. womb). The exterior color was “Buckskin Brown” – the light color below the data plate looks like Buckskin Brown. The interior was white vinyl and “Dark Copper bodycloth”.

Being curious I googled “1955 Ford Buckskin Brown” to see what whole car might have looked like and I lucked out and found some pics and a model on eBay of the same car and color (see pic). While the data plate doesn’t mention it I wonder if the white top was the way it came. I like the white top look on these older cars.

Thanks for the input guys.
 

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L5wolvesf said:
. . .
Being curious I googled “1955 Ford Buckskin Brown” to see what whole car might have looked like and I lucked out and found some pics and a model on eBay of the same car and color (see pic). While the data plate doesn’t mention it I wonder if the white top was the way it came. I like the white top look on these older cars.

Thanks for the input guys.
Click to expand...
If it was originally two-tone it would be shown on the data plate.
Scroll down to the lower half of page 5 at this link (same one I posted above) the color code letters for a Buckskin Brown body with a white top would be KE.
But it doesn't stop you from painting the top any way you like.

https://thecvaonline.com/howtos/DataPlateDecoder.pdf

.
 
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