How to Replace Body Pads - 48 Tudor Sedan

ricklove

ricklove

Senior Member
Any "step by step" instructions on how to replace all the body to frame pads and bolts? I have a 2 post lift; on 1 - 10 (hardest); how hard is it to do alone? Thanks!
 
I found it easy to do without a lift with the car wheels on the ground for maximum stability. Do one at a time so the body won't shift. Undo the body to frame bolt. Tap it out. Use a piece of wood as a lever between the body and frame and lift the body up just enough to slide in the new pad. Line up the holes and reinstall the body bolt. I did the A-pillars first, working alternately from side to side. I did the pads under the sheet floor/frame last. Other folks may have a different technique.
https://www.bobdrake.com/FordItem.aspx?Item=21A-5001
 
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19Fordy said:
I found it easy to do without a lift with the car wheels on the ground for maximum stability. Do one at a time so the body won't shift. Undo the body to frame bolt. Tap it out. Use a piece of wood as a lever between the body and frame and lift the body up just enough to slide in the new pad. Line up the holes and reinstall the body bolt. I did the A-pillars first, working alternately from side to side. I did the pads under the sheet floor/frame last. Other folks may have a different technique.
https://www.bobdrake.com/FordItem.aspx?Item=21A-5001
Click to expand...
Ditto basically. I replaced my '41 pads by removing all bolts on one side, jacking that side up with a plank under the rocker box. Note- had to "juggle" rubber pads around to get the right combo of thickness, My kit really didn't match exactly what was on my car.
 
I’m doing body mounts on a 47 coupe now and found I had to remove running boards to get to a couple body mounts. Of course all board bolts snapped off and now it’s a major project. Not to mention accessing the caged nuts.
 
I did mine alone with a two post lift. I removed all the body bolts with the car in position in the lift area. Once all the bolts were out I slowly brought the body up using the lift and then replaced them. You do not have to raise the body that much.
 
I see that C&G has a "body pad kit" and a separate "bolt kit". I'm assuming that I should purchase both and there will an instruction sheet included that identifies and shows location of each pad and bolt (if different sizes). waterboychuck; If I follow your technique, are there ANY connection issues (wiring, hardware, etc) that may break, bind, pull, etc if it's raised the minimum amount to install the new pads? Thanks!!
 
I did not have any issues when doing mine as the car wasn't wired at the time. You only want to get under enough just to take the old pad out and replace it with the new. I've attached a sheet that shows where they go.
 

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Keep close track of each pad for size and quantity of shims that may be there. It's hard to compare a flattened out pad to a new one so it's hard to say if they are the same as they were originally. Check all your body & door fits in case the frame has been tweeked a bit over time. They shimmed the body to get the best fit up of all the sheet metal and you may need to do do some changes give or take a shim. If your lucky, you won't have to do any changes. When Ford dropped a lot of the bodies on the frame, they already had the front clip on the car so that they could work the cowl for the best fit. Folks can have a hell of a time getting alignment after removing the body from the frame on an old well used car so hopefully you won't have to mess with all that.
 
rotorwrench said:
Keep close track of each pad for size and quantity of shims that may be there. It's hard to compare a flattened out pad to a new one so it's hard to say if they are the same as they were originally. Check all your body & door fits in case the frame has been tweeked a bit over time. They shimmed the body to get the best fit up of all the sheet metal and you may need to do do some changes give or take a shim. If your lucky, you won't have to do any changes. When Ford dropped a lot of the bodies on the frame, they already had the front clip on the car so that they could work the cowl for the best fit. Folks can have a hell of a time getting alignment after removing the body from the frame on an old well used car so hopefully you won't have to mess with all that.
Click to expand...
actually I saw a video of '41 fords that showed the front clip mounted to the frame and the body was brought into position from overhead and placed on the frame. Must have had braces underneath to hold front clip up into position until the body was placed.
 
waterboychuck said:
I did not have any issues when doing mine as the car wasn't wired at the time. You only want to get under enough just to take the old pad out and replace it with the new. I've attached a sheet that shows where they go.
Click to expand...


Where do I position the lift arms to raise only the body just enough to remove the pads? Thanks!!
 
Some of the pads (#2 in directions posted above) have a hex headed metal screw holding them to the frame. Need to get high enough to get a small ratchet and socket on the screw.
 
51 Merc has the right idea. I would put a 2x4 to spread the load. I would put them on the front and back of the running boards.
 
Most body mount kits contain pads that are not used. As you replace the pads, keep a close watch on the way the doors fit. It is a good idea to measure the gap before starting the replacement. Any difference from the original will affect the latches and dovetails. Same is true regarding the fit of the rear end of the hood to the cowel.
 
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