Clutch chatter

H

Huff

Senior Member
I have 52 Ford F1 with clutch chatter.I have new motor mounts and trans mount.The truck is 3 speed on the column. Did not replace clutch or pressure plate the truck was in body shop for 3 years. I though if I drove it a while it would clear up it is some better but not good.Any suggestions???? Any all will be looked at.
 
If you didn't replace those items, and the plate and flywheel didn't get oil on it, they should not be the cause of vibration. However, new motor and ****** mounts need time to "break in". My '47 took a while but fine now. Perhaps give it some time. A few members here live with clutch chatter.
 
My father's F-1 chatters. That 11" clutch is a beast. It needs to be dead nuts adjusted correctly to not chatter.
 
When I installed the T5 in my F1 I replaced the motor mounts, clutch disk, pressure plate and had the flywheel machined. Had clutch chatter. Instead of tearing it down again decided to drive it and see what happened. In less than 500 miles the chatter was gone. If you have oil on the clutch plate there is only one cure. Drive it for a while and see what happens.
 
If it's an old clutch then the pressure plate or disc may have issues. Some of the reproduction stuff for the 10-inch Long type clutch is problematic. The 11-inch clutch was generally for the 4-speed and it's a heavy bugger. Original Borg Warner stuff overhauled by Ft Wayne clutch is good to go. The flywheel may be glazed too. Refacing the flywheel when rebuilding the clutch gets it as good as it will get. Leave anything out of the process and it can be a chatterbox.
 
rotorwrench said:
If it's an old clutch then the pressure plate or disc may have issues. Some of the reproduction stuff for the 10-inch Long type clutch is problematic. The 11-inch clutch was generally for the 4-speed and it's a heavy bugger. Original Borg Warner stuff overhauled by Ft Wayne clutch is good to go. The flywheel may be glazed too. Refacing the flywheel when rebuilding the clutch gets it as good as it will get. Leave anything out of the process and it can be a chatterbox.
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Interesting. I've pulled two 8RT's with 3 speed (floor shifts-could have been heavy duty 3 speeds, not sure), but they both had 11"ers.
 
This is no help to the original poster, but maybe some consolation that he is not alone. When I installed my rebuilt flathead in my '38 I had the flywheel surfaced, installed a Fort Wayne B & B clutch, installed new mounts firmly snugged down, and converted to the '40 pedal assembly. I did everything I knew to ensure a smooth clutch operation. The first few hundred miles it was flawless. Then I began to get chatter at the end of the release. It doesn't chatter at first movement while the engine is loaded, but at the top of the pedal stroke. I can pretty much avoid it with clutch/accelerator coordination but would be much happier if it wasn't there. The diaphragm type clutch on the chevy engine I took out was very smooth.
 
Tim Ayers said:
Interesting. I've pulled two 8RT's with 3 speed (floor shifts-could have been heavy duty 3 speeds, not sure), but they both had 11"ers.
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The 11-inch was available for 1/2-tons as a heavy duty option but I don't think it was standard in the early Bonus Built years. In my opinion, it's overkill for a 1/2 ton. 3/4-ton & larger came with 4-speeds so the 11-inch was standard there.
 
Sitting for three years will mark the fly wheel where the clutch plate is pressing on it and will leave marks and or residue from the clutch plate. JMHO
 
A friend installed his clutch without putting any grease in the splines for the clutch to slid on the in put shaft. A the car sat for about 4 years while doing body work. The clutch and shaft rusted and the car had chatter and slight clutch drag that we couldn't figure out till we tried to pull the motor and it wouldn't come out. When reinstalled he lubed the splines and the engagement was real smooth.
'
 
Back in the 40's after world war II we would buy cars that
sat up on blocks during the war and some had oil on the
clutch. We would push the clutch in and spray carbon tech
from a fire extinguisher in through the inspection cover plate
between the clutch plate and fly wheel and pressure plate.
Then put the front bumper against a tree and slipped the
clutch. This would usually fix it or at least make it drivable.
G.M.
 
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