!931 body on a 1929 frame
- Thread starter 37 Coupe
- Start date
As you know, the radiator will sit too high and the hood will not fit well at the firewall. Raise the body and get a larger gap under the body and above the splash aprons. Then the front of the rear fenders will be a bit short trying to reach down to the running board. Not much but noticeable until you try to align the hood. A bit better if you eliminate the rubber pad where the spring and mounting bolts are at the sides.
37 Coupe
Well-known member
I think my beloved '31 roadster is sitting on a '29 frame. I think that 50-60 years ago someone did this but at least they used a very nice '29 frame and the engine must have been very low miles as it has not been touched.I suspected the misalignment in the hood when I got the car or shortly after but it wasn't too alarming.I thought the front crossmember looked okay like a picture I saw of the difference between the two.What I just discovered upset me as the stoplight switch that a '30 and a '31 use which fits in crossmember no mounting holes for it and current stop light switch is a early one on transmission. I get one good day and a couple bad ones but I gotta get it back together.Probably the most disappointing old car project for me in 54 years,you think I would have learned by now.So many other good roadsters I could have bought for about same money. Suppose after 87 years they all have their skelletens.
Dick Steinkamp
Well-known member
Pluck documents all the frame changes here...
http://www.plucks329s.org/pdf/frame/Evolution_of_the_frame_Assembly2.pdf
http://www.plucks329s.org/pdf/frame/Evolution_of_the_frame_Assembly2.pdf
A straight edge across the frame at the support pads will tell you what you need to know . Radiator needs to be off and fenders are also in the way. There's always the serial # to see if it is 29 or later. Service bulletins show this change clearly. Steve Pluckers site is helpful if not, much more. Bring a lunch if you go.
Last edited:
Bob Wright
Senior Member
Our 1931 Victoria came with a 29 frame. The previous owner had already replaced the front cross member with a correct later unit. I also installed a 31 emergency brake set-up and fabricated the correct #-6 mounting brackets. All in all, I'm very satisfied with the final results.
Bob
Bob
37 Coupe
Well-known member
This is good to know that thiss is something that has shown up on others,thank you. I will have the front end off for awhile waiting for the Berg radiator so mayby I will run across a correct crossmember.A NOS one sold on Ebay 2-3 weeks ago I saw it but did not know at the time I needed it or mayby the daunting task of riveting has me concerned. Wish a local street rodder who owns a beautifully restored '30 roadster would let go of his chassis soon instead of butchering it.
Don't forget to check the pads, someone in the past may have already changed the front cross member. Riveting the cross member can be a daunting task to do correctly. Need to build a big heavy buck for inside the frame. Takes a REAL RIVET GUN and not an air hammer. and is a 2 man job using heat. Often the cross member will cost about the same as a whole frame.
37 Coupe
Well-known member
If anyone could help I would be very appreciated of a picture of the Ford service bulletin of January 1930 page 416.This supposedly shows the stoplight switch holes or attachment of the "new" switch in center crossmember.I am trying to locate to drill the three 17/64" holes for the switch in an earlier frame for my'31.Thanks for any help.
Dick Steinkamp
Well-known member
Unfortunately, the exact location of the holes aren't shown.
Unless you are building a high point car, I'd leave the early switch in place.
37 Coupe
Well-known member
Wow,thank you very much appreciated.I actually have the correct '31 switch and I think the only thing I need to do is drill the three holes.I think the correct rod is in place with the mushroom head that comes close to th crossmember.The location should help me transfer the first hole for the actuator and your picture shows me the mounting holes are vertical.again thank you.
37 Coupe
Well-known member
Unfortunately, the exact location of the holes aren't shown.
Unless you are building a high point car, I'd leave the early switch in place.
Dick, I think now 24 hours later that you are most correct in your suggestion to leave the early switch in place. No point in struggling to place holes in the proper position for a car that is never going to see a car show let alone Model A Club judging. The early switch that is in place works just fine so I guess if it ain't broke,etc. Also too many other issues to correct.