Lower Radiator Hose assembly disassembly

3

30 Closed Cab PU

Well-known member
Have searched the forum and have been unable to find the exact info I am looking for.


1st time I removed the lower hoses/tube I had to cut them off and smooth/repaint the radiator outlet and the block inlet neck. Put things back together, no issues no leaks.


Then started flushing back/flushing. I got lazy and cut the hoses a little shorter and was able to disassemble/reassemble without having to take the block neck off.


When my radiator gets replaced next year it is time to replace the hoses, the current ones are showing some wear and cracking from age and abuse from repeated assembly/disassembly.


Am curious, why did Henry do it this way, requiring removal of the Block inlet? Opinions/facts?


With new proper length hoses is there a method to assemble/disassemble without removing the Block Inlet Neck?


What should I use to lubricate the hoses for assembly, not bond the hose to radiator and block neck, and remain for the life of the hose?


Have seen suggestions - Silicone spray, Vaseline, Indian Head shellac, RTV, others. Am more concerned about ease of taking hoses off 3 years from now, and using something safe on the hoses. Have not had any issues with hose leaks since I have followed other advice on the Barn.
 
Well, it's been a while, but as I recall I installed the lower hose and tightened the clamps, then slid the upper hose far enough onto the metal pipe that it did not interfere with lining in up with the block outlet. Then just slid the hose back into place. I used dish soap as a lubricant. Now to answer your main concern, I have not taken it off since, so I can't assure you that this method would solve that problem!
 
JBill said:
Well, it's been a while, but as I recall I installed the lower hose and tightened the clamps, then slid the upper hose far enough onto the metal pipe that it did not interfere with lining in up with the block outlet. Then just slid the hose back into place. I used dish soap as a lubricant. Now to answer your main concern, I have not taken it off since, so I can't assure you that this method would solve that problem!
Click to expand...



I've tried that, maybe the hoses are longer these days?


I've had the lowest hose seated against the radiator as much as possible, and the higher hose as far as possible close to the engine block, with hose clamps not tightened down. Then tried to inserting the pipe. Insert one end of the pipe into one of the hoses as far as it will go. The other end of the pipe will not clear the other hose so it can be inserted into its end of the hose.


If using dish soap, will it keep the hose from bonding to the tube over an extended period, for instance 2-3 years?
 
OK, hope I have provided you all a good laugh.


I think I made a pretty basic rookie mistake.


Perhaps if I was not so narrowly focused I would have released the error in my thinking.


I need to put the hoses on the pipe, before installing the hoses on the radiator and block, Duh!


Still would like to know the answer to the preceding dish detergent question.
 
I want to resurrect this thread to hear from you guys on how you install the lower hoses and pipe. Exactly which clamps do you start out with tight, which end do you install first, etc.

One thing I noticed is that the new lower hoses sold are 3-1/2" long (Vince's site says that is Model B length) and he says the Model A lower hoses were 2-3/4" long. Do you guys cut the lower hoses down to the 2-3/4" length? Or leave them long?

Someone above asked about using something to slip the hoses on easier. I use a light smear of Hylomar AF. It adds some amount of slip lubrication, it helps seal against weeping, and the hoses come off easier in the future.
 
Bruce of MN said:
I used Ru Glyde, since it is fine for tire beads.
Click to expand...

That's a good point, because I have heard that many petroleum-based products actually soften the rubber with time.

And you know it is going to get all over everything, so you want something that will wipe off and not leave a mess.
 
I put a thin layer of ArmorAll on the inside of the hoses. I don’t tighten any clamps until everything is in place and adjusted.
 
Like JayJay, tighten things once everything is in place but I don't use any lubricant. If I did, I think I'd grab a tube of brake rubber lubricant. It won't affect the hoses.
 
if you paint a pipe that a hose goes onto you better make sure it is absolutely cured before putting the hose on as the hose will glue itself onto the pipe if it is not. tough to get off the next time

same thing as motorcycle grips. paint the end of the bar put the grip on and it will be anchored.
 
JayJay said:
I put a thin layer of ArmorAll on the inside of the hoses. I don’t tighten any clamps until everything is in place and adjusted.
Click to expand...

From my experience, the connection down at the radiator outlet neck is the hardest to get on straight, get a clamp on well, and be leak-free.

I'm thinking that a good starting point would be to attach one of the short hoses down there and clamping it on tight (with no lubricant or anything to let it move around). That would get you that one connection on and sealed well from the start...

Then start adding the pipe to it (with a little lubricant to make sliding easier) with the other short rubber hose already slid on the other end of the pipe, but no clamps tight yet.

Opinions?
 
As for lubricant spit is slick, use to install bike handle grips by spitting in the grips ! For rubber hoses you can use anti-freeze , it’s also slick and won’t harm rubber , and you probably have it in the garage ! As for sealing if you need I have used Permatex #2 non-hardening and is slippery , which you probably have in the garage .
 
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