UnStuck Block/Full Flow

37Flat

37Flat

Senior Member
Finally found the problem. After the ATF and rocking didn't work, I kept taking off parts, try to turn it, take off more parts, etc. Took off the flywheel and and it turned! It had been suggested that too long of flywheel bolts would lock the motor, but they were fine. Then I saw it. The top fitting for the full flow oil filter is out too far and jammed the flywheel. You can see the scrape marks in the pic. At least it's not a stuck valve or ring.

My first reaction is to file it down, but that may not be the best idea. Someone had posted that they had the same system (Red's) and didn't use this line. I don't know one way or the other. Could use some opinions. Thanks
 

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I would see if I could get another turn inward with the 90 degree fitting. If not, tap the 1/8 pipe treads a little deeper so the fitting can go in.

Remove the line and screw a male fitting into 90 degree so it won't collapse when you wrench it.
 
Prime example why you don't want to attempt to force a stuck engine until you know what is going on. JWL has the solution.
 
Thank you both. I'm a little concerned about tapping the hole as I'm not sure where the metal will go - hopefully it won't come to that. I'm just happy that it's a reasonably simple fix.
 
If you put some grease in flutes of the tap and go a very little bit then back out, clean and re-grease and go again you should catch all of the metal the tap cuts. Some might disagree but I've done this a few of times and not had any problems.


Just my $0.02 worth.
 
D. Jones said:
If you put some grease in flutes of the tap and go a very little bit then back out, clean and re-grease and go again you should catch all of the metal the tap cuts. Some might disagree but I've done this a few of times and not had any problems.


Just my $0.02 worth.
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Or cut the threads deeper on the fitting, blast with brake cleaner and air. Install.
 
>>>You can see the scrape marks>>>My first reaction is to file it down>>>

Mine too. Take it out. Make those little scrapes disappear with a file. Put it back. Jack E/NJ
 
Hard to see, but looks like the fitting may have been bent while attempting to turn flywheel.
 
RalphM said:
Hard to see, but looks like the fitting may have been bent while attempting to turn flywheel.
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Just came in from the shop and you're right, it's bent. Now I got to figure out how to get it out without breaking it. Should be interesting.
 
37Flat said:
Just came in from the shop and you're right, it's bent. Now I got to figure out how to get it out without breaking it. Should be interesting.
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I installed a Reds full flow oil filtering system in a 59 series engine I built some years ago. I decided not to use that tubing connection behind the flywheel for fear of having the same problems you are experiencing. Without that rear connection you would still have a 90-95% FF filtering system.
 
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JM 35 Sedan said:
I installed a Reds full flow oil filtering system in a 59 series engine I built some years ago. I decided not to use that tubing connection behind the flywhheel for fear of having the same problems you are experiencing. Without that rear connection you would still have a 90-95% FF filtering system.
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Finally got the bent/broken fitting out. After seeing what is left, I think I'm more comfortable with plugging the holes and settling for 90-95%, also. If I do that, doesn't the plug under the cover have to be removed? It appears to have been installed as part of the FF system.
 

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If you are talking about the cover behind the flywheel for the small cam gear, and the gear that drives the oil pump, that would be the rear oil galley plug that should stay in place. It's not really a part that was added for the FF oil filter system.
 
Be very careful if you leave out the tubing; the drawing for modifying the block shows a .250" plug installed in the port to the rear main. You may not have any oil to the rear main if you remove the tubing and leave in that plug. This kind of problem has been reported before when people have left off the filter on a block that has been modified for the 90% filter system.
 
I'd be a little concerned about that area under the cover looking rusty/dirty. That cavity should be clean and oily.

Mart.
 
BillM said:
Be very careful if you leave out the tubing; the drawing for modifying the block shows a .250" plug installed in the port to the rear main. You may not have any oil to the rear main if you remove the tubing and leave in that plug. This kind of problem has been reported before when people have left off the filter on a block that has been modified for the 90% filter system.
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This post may be one of the posts you are referring to:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38439&highlight=Full+flow+oil+filter

These previous posts refer back to Reds Headers full flow oil filter system with additional tubing added to back of block:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24992&highlight=Reds+full+flow+oil+filter

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38439&highlight=Full+flow+oil+filter
 
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BillM said:
Be very careful if you leave out the tubing; the drawing for modifying the block shows a .250" plug installed in the port to the rear main. You may not have any oil to the rear main if you remove the tubing and leave in that plug. This kind of problem has been reported before when people have left off the filter on a block that has been modified for the 90% filter system.
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Thanks for bringing that up, Bill. Not being the one that installed the system in the first place, I had no idea. I think putting the tubing back is probably my best bet. Just have to make sure the fitting clears the flywheel this time.

Lots to learn. Thanks to everybody for the input.
 
Isn’t the oil pump modified for this type system as well?
I go with keeping it as is too, just use suggestions above to get the tubing tight to block.
After installation, Try painting the backside of your fly wheel with some guide coat, install it then turn the engine over a few times and see if it’s rubbing the fitting.
 
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