old post about devil christine

big job

big job

Well-known member
Although I do not believe in snake oils, so with my hung ex valve I popped the intake ; there is no logic what I see. #1 ex bent over above the lifter??
How in hell can that happen. China Valve ? Logic valve in head lifter pushes
valve up spring pushes valve down.. simply as that. Most get bent at the top
but the bottom laid over?? Think bout it. .014 ex lash so how it got bent
above the lifter >?? Hospital clean as machined yesterday. Now I got ta figure
how to remove this thing (with out a whiz grinder) 59AB with a 8BA valve
train . big pry bar and bend the stem kind of strait i guess. question is how
what why and when..............sam
 
Both keylock halves in place? Jack E/NJ
 

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Just a thought, If there were something in the combustion chamber ( above the valve) holding it closed, then when the cam action tried to move the valve, guess what would happen.
If this is something that indeed did happen, then what about the condition of the camshaft and lifter?

369030
 

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51 merc got it. What caused this and did it do other damage? Possible it got seized in the guide but not where my money is. If it did hit something in the combustion chamber then it probably hit the piston too, unless you needed to clearance the head for the valve but did not check
 
No one will believe this. Again this engine has just about 400 miles on it. Everything
I put in there is (suppose to be) genuine first class parts. What I found: Exhaust valve
is not bent, its the guide can't believe the ID is egged around .300. I mic'd the stem and
that showed perfect, although I'll stick a new valve in with a new genuine Merc guide I had
in stock. So what do we all have to do= check parts with a magnet? More likely this guide
made across the pond made out of lead or pot metal? And then I dread the fact there are 15 more in there likely prone to failure? sam
 
" ID is egged around .300." Is it "egged" the whole length of the hole or just at the end where it may have been damaged when installed using a 'pickle fork' ?
 
51 MERC-CT said:
" ID is egged around .300." Is it "egged" the whole length of the hole or just at the end where it may have been damaged when installed using a 'pickle fork' ?
Click to expand...

Yes its egged all the way through. And for installation with the fork, no damage
there, slid right in as they all did. Thought I seen it all, but this? All I can think
of this guide was made from some soft mystery metal. Clearly as your pics
you posted, all action is a straight line= lifter to valve to lift and spring to close.
That said there is no way something would **** the valve and destroy the
guide, and yes all my lifters have a perfect block fit as well as guide to block
fit. I just thought of doing a file test on this guide and file test on original
one. So thanks 51 Merc. sam


"maybe it was 3D printed and sprayed cast iron from Harbor Freight"
 
big job said:
Yes its egged all the way through. And for installation with the fork, no damage
there, slid right in as they all did. Thought I seen it all, but this? All I can think
of this guide was made from some soft mystery metal. Clearly as your pics
you posted, all action is a straight line= lifter to valve to lift and spring to close.
That said there is no way something would **** the valve and destroy the
guide, and yes all my lifters have a perfect block fit as well as guide to block
fit. I just thought of doing a file test on this guide and file test on original
one. So thanks 51 Merc. sam


"maybe it was 3D printed and sprayed cast iron from Harbor Freight"
Click to expand...
A real anomaly. Wonder if the OD is round.
( hope you can alert others to the source of these guides )
 
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If it was mine, I'd probably replace the whole set of valve guides. Also, you'll surely need to have the seat and valve redone on that cylinder - as the valve has been slapping around all over the place. On the rest, you 'should' be able to just replace the guides - but I'd die-chem the seats/valve-faces and use a really fine lapping compound and lap them all - just to see that the valves/seats are good and correctly aligned.
 
Bored&Stroked said:
If it was mine, I'd probably replace the whole set of valve guides. Also, you'll surely need to have the seat and valve redone on that cylinder - as the valve has been slapping around all over the place. On the rest, you 'should' be able to just replace the guides - but I'd die-chem the seats/valve-faces and use a really fine lapping compound and lap them all - just to see that the valves/seats are good and correctly aligned.
Click to expand...

Thanks I ground all seats and lapped all new valves at rebuild. Now I lapped a
new valve & installed, now I just gotta set the lash which I dread. sam
 
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