speedo cable lube

Daves55Sedan

Daves55Sedan

Well-known member
Guys, I need a little direction here.
In the past, I have always pulled my cable core out, smeared axle grease all over it, then shoved the core back into the cable housing so that the core would be completely surrounded with grease. And it does stop the speedo needle from bouncing, until after about two years, the speedo completely quits working. Then I have always had to take the instrument cluster out, disassemble it and clean the grease out of the magnetic weights to free up the mechanism. EVERY two years I have had to do this.
So this time, I have removed the whole speedo cable assembly out and cleaned all the old grease out of the housing and off the cable core. I went and got a 1/2 oz squeeze tube of graphite grease, shook it up real good and squeezed it all out into the cable housing. The graphite grease is very runny, not what I was expecting. Skeptical of the lubricating value, I decided to dunk two fingers into a little dab of fresh new bearing grease and smear it all up and down the cable core. I shoved the core down into the housing, twisting as it went down all the way.
I would prefer not to ever need to take the instrument cluster out again because of too much grease, but I am concerned that this graphite grease may run out through the gear end and increase friction of the core.
Recommendations ???
 
White Lithium Grease - LUBRIPLATE


Axle (chassis) grease is meant for a higher temp usage and may congeal inside the cable housing.
 
I purchased a can of graphite in spray form and was very happy with it’s properties. The speedometer is as quiet as it has ever been since I have owned the car. This is the first time I have used such a product. Time will tell on longevity of course.
 
When using the old grease method, we were told in school to grease the bottom 2/3 of the cable, and if it needs lube higher up, the screw action of the cable will screw it upwards.
 
I drove the car around for a couple of miles with the speedo cable disconnected from the speedometer to see if any of the lube was gonna be forced out of the end of the cable while driving. So far, none has oozed out, so I think I may be safe as far as not pumping grease into the magnet chamber of the speedo. That will be a big help. I just hope there is enough lube in there to protect the core from wearing.
 
Sometimes the grease reacts with the plastic that surrounds the cable entry ferrule and it breaks... oops.... I've always used the graphite and my dad had a tube of it around forever.
 
I agree with bob used it on all my vehicles.up here in the land of igloos we have it in aerosol cans.axle grease is acidic by the way
 
After having lubed the cable core and cleaning out the gummed up speedo mechanism, I test drove the car to see how it would do. This couldn't have turned out better. It probably hasn't worked this well since it was brand new. The needle moves smooth as silk. In addition to that, I had also painted fluorescent orange behind the speedo needle and on the fuel and temp guage needles since the paint had long been burned off by sunlight. I can actually see the needles now, day or night. The fluorescent orange paint I used was a cheap little bottle of Testors model paint. $2.42. The resto parts suppliers gyp you by selling this same stuff (different brand) for about $15.00 for a little bottle. Guess I am too smart for them. Hehe.
 

Attachments

  • Speedo.JPG
    Speedo.JPG
    141.5 KB · Views: 16
If you're not familiar with graphite grease, make sure you cover your interior with a drop cloth and maybe even wear gloves. This stuff is as black as night, gets everywhere and is very difficult to clean out of upholstery / rugs.
 
Daddio said:
If you're not familiar with graphite grease, make sure you cover your interior with a drop cloth and maybe even wear gloves. This stuff is as black as night, gets everywhere and is very difficult to clean out of upholstery / rugs.
Click to expand...


In past years, I had always disconnected the speedo cable from the back of the speedo and pulled the cable core out of the housing while coiling the cable up in my hands. I did always have newspapers covering the driver side floor, but that was more to insure I would not accidentally get any dirt from the floor onto the cable coil. My floorcovering is wall-to-wall rubber mat and my seats are fully vinyl covered, so if I accidentally got any grease on the seat, I could easily clean it off with gasoline.
However, this time I had completely removed the cable to clean out the inside of the housing with solvent, while having the core coiled up inside of a clean empty coffee can.
I had taken an old piece of 1x4 lumber and cut two notches (one near each end of the board. Then I clamped the board into a workbench vice and inserted the ends of the cable housing into the notches in the board. At one point after having done a preliminary cleaning, I left the cable hanging in a loop in the board filled with solvent overnight. The next day, I simply took one end of the housing out of the board and emptied it into an empty can sitting on the floor. I finally blew it out with compressed air prior to re-lubing the cable core and re-inserting it into the cable housing.
But yes, if you have carpeted floor and luxury fabric upholstered seats, by all means, cover everything well when doing this operation under the dash. I have done this so many times in the past that I had gotten pretty good about not getting any grease smeared inside the car at all. Now I am keeping my fingers crossed that I may never need to do this again on this car. BUT alas, the speedo needle in the '55 Courier is bouncing pretty badly, so I will need to do all this over again in the wagon soon. Ughhh.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top