1955 ford station wagon with a V8 302 Engine.

Had a 68 Montego with 302 and that engine was very hard to refill cooling system, if air locked take heater hose loose from intake manifold and fill radiator till coolant starts to come out of manifold. Had to do the above on mine and jack the front of the car high. Didn't know about drilling small hole in Tstat then.
 
Thanks Kultulz. The hose is only 2 yrs old.Looks in good shape. Everything was ok til I had the radiator soldered and flushed.Like I mentioned before,I did replace the water pump and the thermostat housing along with the thermostat.Before I installed the new WP,I compared both and they did match ok.I double checked to make sure the thermostat went in the correct way ( Spring facing inside block). I did burp the system to get rid of bubbles/air. Back years ago,we took out the original V8 272 out and replaced it with this 1968 302. The belts are the old style V-belts,no serpentine and the rotation is clockwise. I tried again today and after about 10 minutes,I shut the engine down and than a few min.later,the hose got loose again and water started to leak again.This time,I also noticed that the hose got swelled up,like too much pressure being build up. I wonder if I might have gotten a bad water pump.Thanks to 5851 A for the help too.
Mando
 
After checking all the work that I did (New water pump,thermostat housing,and new thermostat,everything was ok,did not install anything wrong and since the trouble started right after I got my radiator back from the shop,I went ahead and removed the rad.again and too it back to the shop to have it checked to make sure there was nothing wrong with it.I told the guy in a nice way that I did not have any overheating problems before I took it to him other than a small leak at the bottom tank of the rad.He said he was going to take it apart again to make sure there was nothing wrong internally.So,while I am waiting Again for the Rad.to come back,I wanted to see what year this 302 was from.I removed the starter and saw the casting numbers which are the following: EOAE and underneath those numbers are: D5C.They were kind of hard to read but I did spray gunk degreaser to clean the numbers. Now,the E could be an 8 cause it looks like an E or 8. Can anyone here see if you can decode this numbers for me please. I also saw some numbers on the intake and those numbers are C8AE-9425-B but I think those are just for the intake,not the block unless you guys think that might be the block casting numbers.As always,thanks for all your help with this question.
Mando
 
poolplayer1 said:
I wanted to see what year this 302 was from.I removed the starter and saw the casting numbers which are the following: EOAE and underneath those numbers are: D5C.They were kind of hard to read but I did spray gunk degreaser to clean the numbers. Now,the E could be an 8 cause it looks like an E or 8.

Can anyone here see if you can decode this numbers for me please. I also saw some numbers on the intake and those numbers are C8AE-9425-B but I think those are just for the intake,not the block unless you guys think that might be the block casting numbers.As always,thanks for all your help with this question.

Mando
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E0AE on the BLOCK CASTING I.D. equates to 1980. The actual DATE CODE will give you the year of casting.

C8AE on the MANIFOLD CASTING equates to 1968.

So you have a 5.0L block retro-fitted with earlier 302 carburetion.

So you had no cooling problems before the rad leak? It is the OEM 55 rad?

The repair shop should have rodded the core and performed a flow test after the repair. See what it does when it comes back.

DATE CODE INFO- http://automotivemileposts.com/ford/fordpartnumbers.html

Scroll down to DATE CODES on the page.
 
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dmsfrr said:
I have no proof that the phenolic plastic carb spacers work any better than the metal ones but it seems like it should, so I use one.
Click to expand...

They do work.

In the old days ... :rolleyes: ... their purpose was to isolate the carb from engine heat to help keep the fuel cooler and deliver a more dense charge. Now they have a newer purpose.
 
Thanks for your reply and help. The rad.that I have now is not the oem rad.Its from a 1968 ford Galaxie 500. Its wider than the oem cause I can see where new bolt holes were drilled to accomadate the wider radiator.Like I said,I have never had any over heating problem with this wagon until it came back from the Rad.shop. The only reason I replaced the water pump,thermostat housing and the thermostat was because they had been there quite a few years.Since I am now retired,I expect to start driving it more often. I tried going to the link you posted here but says Error,cannot be found. So the block is from the 80's and the intake from 68? When they start calling the 302's 5.0 liter? Or,has it always been 302/5.0?
Hoping to get the Rad.back for the weekend but I am not holding my breath.
I don't want to rush the guy, that way he has plenty of time to make sure it will not over heat.
Mando
 
I know your carb at one tie ran cooler with the '68 Ford radiator, but since it is wider and shorted that the original, a lot of the cooling fins are probably blocked by the radiator support frame and panels.


Also if the lower rad hose tends to slide back and the clamp gets loose, that kind of tells me the lower hose tube on the radiator may have a slight taper to it, where the diameter is slightly less at the end.


Sal
 
Thanks Sal. The guy from the Rad.shop called me a little while ago and told me that the core was ok,nothing plugged up,( He had rodded it out last week) but that the hose tube at the bottom was too short and that he was going to extend it about 2 inches and hopefully the hose will not come out like it has been doing. I don't think that's going to make a difference cause that same rad.had no problems before,even with the same tube that it has now.Also,I really think that there is something wrong with the rad.,building pressure cause since I got it back from the shop,everytime I run the engine for about 10 to 15 minutes idling and than shut the engine off,within a minute or so after shut off,the bottom hose gets swelled up and than gets loose from the tube,leaking all the water.After I get it back this time and if it does the same thing,I think I will start to look for another radiator since this one is not working out anymore.The only problem is that I already paid the guy $150.00 the first time.
One question, What should the temp.gauge read after 15 minutes with the car idling?
I have a good brand under dash gauge and it reads 210 degrees.
Before he worked on the rad. it use to run only up to 180 degrees.
Mando
 
poolplayer1 said:
One question, What should the temp.gauge read after 15 minutes with the car idling?

I have a good brand under dash gauge and it reads 210 degrees. Before he worked on the rad. it use to run only up to 180 degrees.

Mando
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What degree replacement thermostat did you use?

Was the WP a reman or quality new? Is the cap quality and @ what poundage does it release? It should spit before the hose swells.
 
The water pump I put in is a new water pump from master Pro. The new thermostat is 180 degrees.The new radiator cap is a 13 psi cap which it calls for. Still waiting for the Rad.to come back. I found some casting numbers on the old water pump and they are; C8AE-J. I did some research and it looks like this pump was used in the 68 ford model cars that had AC. Would it matter if the new pump is for non-ac motors? Again I matched the old pump to the new one and they both are the same.The only difference is the pulley hub on the old pump is a 2 1/2" and the new hub is 2".
However,the pulley bolt holes match the new hub hole pattern so I don't think that its a problem,unless you think it might make a difference. I tried to find a new water pump from different parts houses by putting in the C8AE-J numbers on the search bar but nobody came up with a cross for it. As usuall,thanks to all for your good advice and suggestions.
Mando
 
poolplayer1 said:
The water pump I put in is a new water pump from master Pro. The new thermostat is 180 degrees.The new radiator cap is a 13 psi cap which it calls for. Still waiting for the Rad.to come back.

I found some casting numbers on the old water pump and they are; C8AE-J. I did some research and it looks like this pump was used in the 68 ford model cars that had AC. Would it matter if the new pump is for non-ac motors? Again I matched the old pump to the new one and they both are the same.The only difference is the pulley hub on the old pump is a 2 1/2" and the new hub is 2".

However,the pulley bolt holes match the new hub hole pattern so I don't think that its a problem,unless you think it might make a difference. I tried to find a new water pump from different parts houses by putting in the C8AE-J numbers on the search bar but nobody came up with a cross for it.

Mando
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The pump used (C8AE) is from a 1968/ 302. It was used to have the correct FEAD (Front Engine Accessory Drive) for the engine swap/install, that being mainly WP shaft length.

It is correct if all the drive/driven pulleys line up.
 

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Thanks for your help Kultulz. Yes,the new water pump did match the old pump and the pulley fitted ok on the pump too.I am going to buy a infra red Temp.gun to use on my wagon when I get my rad.back from the shop.We have a harbor freight here in town and they have a temp. gun for around $31.00.I know they are not the best tools to buy but for the few times that I will be using it,I think it might be ok.What do you guys think about tools from them?
Oh, Can you guys advice me what would be a decent (Price Wise) OBD11 scanner to buy.I don't want a reall cheapy one but a medium price that will do a good job in reading the codes of my other truck.It uses the newer computer and requires the OBD11 scanner.Thanks for your reply.
Mando
 
Also, I believe when Ford switched to serpentine drive on the belt, they reversed the rotation of the water pump. Pretty sure on that. Possible you have the wrong rotation water pump ? Not sure what year they made the switch.


Sal
 
Thanks Sal. The rotation of this pump is clockwise.The belt is a V belt,does not use the serpentine but I am going to do some checking around and see what I can come up with.
Mando
 
1969 and earlier SBF's 289-302 (short pump) would have the lower hose on the passenger side 1970 and later long pumps the lower hose is drivers side.
 
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