Turn signals but keeping single element bulb

If you have a single wire coming from the light, just graft that wire so that you now have 2 wires coming from the socket, One would be used as original, the other would have a diode installed to keep the current from the Parking light power from affecting the turn signal pulse.
 
Something you may have considered already. You have to make sure the brake light doesn't wash out the directionals.
 
solidaxle said:
Something you may have considered already. You have to make sure the brake light doesn't wash out the directionals.
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Not sure I understand this, with a two filament taillight, the brake and turn signal use the same filament. When the brakes are applied, it is the brake light filament that is being turned on and off to function as a turn signal. The tail light filament is the dimmer of the two and (if on) remains lit with both brake/turn signal functions.
 
Looks like I'll be doing some wiring this weekend. Yep,I know, some this stuff is made China and other places. It is what it is. I have two different 1157 sockets. One those will be fitted to the running lights up front giving me two element bulbs up front.
I'll try remember to takes pics of how I do things.
 

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edhd58 said:
Looks like I'll be doing some wiring this weekend. Yep,I know, some this stuff is made China and other places. It is what it is. I have two different 1157 sockets. One those will be fitted to the running lights up front giving me two element bulbs up front.
I'll try remember to takes pics of how I do things.
Click to expand...

Have fun. There is great satisfaction doing it yourself.

GB
 
Graeme / New Zealand said:
Have fun. There is great satisfaction doing it yourself.

GB
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Thanks Graeme, yes there is, and sometimes great frustration. But hey that teaches us too.

I will have this installed this weekend I'm sure. It's simple, straightforward wiring. I already have installed a fuse block to take the extra current off the column switch. Its a fused block with 6 fused circuits.
I have my wipers, electric fan, and of all things my voltmeter going through it. I did my voltmeter so it would be battery voltage, the way I had it before was at the voltage regulator where the generator hooked to it. it may have worked just fine, I just didn't like the look of the extra wire on the regulator.
After this weekend the turn signal will be on it as well.
 
If you follow the instructions that come with your switch you can't go wrong. I brought a number of rolls of coloured wire similar to the switch wires and ran them to the various positions through the length of chassis rail on the drivers side and crossing to the other side front and rear and then taped it all into a separate loom which I cable tied to the existing loom. To enter the car I ran it through the handbrake/speedo cable grommet, under the carpet, up behind the kick panel and over the top of the hand brake lever bracket so you can't see it. It was the just a matter of tidying the wires up under the dash and tapping into a hot wire. I used a spare pigtail that was actually in my existing loom, and that is permanently hot so I can use the flare tab for the hazard flashers when the ignition is off. The flasher unit I mounted under the dash by finding a place to screw one of those stainless clips that stretch to hold tube shaped objects. My flasher unit is can shaped. I don't have a radio so I secured it to one of the screws behind the speaker grill that holds the grill to the dash. The flasher being there is very audible when the switch is operated while the car is running.

Double check every connection as you go, it is imperative that you get the right wires running to your switch and to your flasher unit terminals. I fused the hot wire with an inline fuse.

Let us know how it works out.

GB
 
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Okay guys. I now have turn signals using the factory marker housings up front. Attached are pics of the sockets used. The sockets from C&G wouldnt work after I pressed them into place in the old socket housings.
I don't know if it was the sockets or something I did pressing them. Whatever the cause the spring loaded bottom would not come after pushed down.
I used new plastic sockets and attached them to the old housings.
It was a simple straightforward job as long I read and followed the directions with the turn signal switch.
I am however getting to old and fat to keep worming my self under the dash doing wiring.
All wiring went through the firewall with the factory wires. So everything under the hood cleaned pretty nice. I still have some ziptieing to do. But all in all I'm pleased with the outcome.
 

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JSeery said:
Not sure I understand this, with a two filament taillight, the brake and turn signal use the same filament. When the brakes are applied, it is the brake light filament that is being turned on and off to function as a turn signal. The tail light filament is the dimmer of the two and (if on) remains lit with both brake/turn signal functions.
Click to expand...
I went back and read the past posts. He is using the 7 wire turn signal. In that case there is not a problem with the brakes washing out the directional lights.
 
edhd58 said:
Okay guys. I now have turn signals using the factory marker housings up front. Attached are pics of the sockets used. The sockets from C&G wouldnt work after I pressed them into place in the old socket housings.
I don't know if it was the sockets or something I did pressing them. Whatever the cause the spring loaded bottom would not come after pushed down.
I used new plastic sockets and attached them to the old housings.
It was a simple straightforward job as long I read and followed the directions with the turn signal switch.
I am however getting to old and fat to keep worming my self under the dash doing wiring.
All wiring went through the firewall with the factory wires. So everything under the hood cleaned pretty nice. I still have some ziptieing to do. But all in all I'm pleased with the outcome.
Click to expand...

That's unusual that your sockets from C&G wouldn't work. I know that theses sockets are earthed through socket to body contact so surfaces need to be clean. Looking good though....i'm a skinny bugger, but it was still hard "worming" under the dash.

GB
 
Graeme, the C&G socketts worked fine until I pressed them into the old sockets. I have feeling was something I did.
 
update on the signals.
They worked fine for two days then started blinking erratically when turned on. It came with a flasher for all LED lights, I have LED in back but elements up front. I wound up putting in a heavy duty flasher and now they are working fine. I'll let you know if this stops working the way they should.
 
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