Gas Blowing Out Exhaust

I agree that the simplest and best solution would be go to a stock Zenith.
If there is a modelA club chapter in your area they might have a carb and manifold they would give you for little or no cost.

John
 
Steve, wish you were close ... I’d be happy to help you. Even an economical tillotson carb would be ok. You need a stock l intake and exhausts manifold. You can use some decent originals if you can find some locally or he repro are decent at about $200 Ish delivered . I just think for the time being you would be much better off keeping it simple. No electric fuel pump, no needle and seat pressure issues with carb, etc.

Drop me pm if you want to chat
All the best !
Larry Shepard
 
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I think your fuel shut off is leaking down the line, just like mine was. I have a downdraft also. After multiple attempts at replacements/rebuilding, etc. I finally installed an in-line ball valve on the fuel line in the engine compartment between the sediment bulb and fuel pump. I left the original leaky valve intact under the tank. The ball valve gives full open flow with a 1/4 turn of the handle with zero leakage down the line.

I am very happy with this improvement and I see this as a permanent fix for my application. :)

As a test, trying running the carb dry, shut off the valve, then come back a day or so later and try to start it up with the valve still shut off. If the engine starts with the valve still closed, you have your answer! :rolleyes:
 
It might just be the photo BUT ...

1. From the looks of the stain on muffler/manifold joint.

2. And the yellow/brown stain on the intake manifold it is possible that you might have OLD "Gooey-Slimy Gobberment Gasoline" in the tank which Sta-Bil does NOT correct.

Possibly the float valve, emulsion tubes and jets are all gummed up.

Steve_KS said:
Hello,

My car has a Stromburg 81 carb, gravity fed, no pump. I've had the car since memorial day and put ~200 miles on it. I'm having trouble starting it the first time each day. I have tried tried many procedures but haven't stumbled on the right one yet.

I've tried pulling the choke out for 1 crank then in while cranking all the way to leaving it out while cranking, but it doesn't start. If I put the throttle half down and crank it wont start. If I pump the pedal a time or two then crank it doesn't start.

What does work is if I crank it over once then push the throttle button to the floor. However liquid gas sprays out of the junction between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe like unscrewing a garden hose that's running. Some gas goes out the tail pipe too.

I think the issue is with the carb because I've tuned it up, new plugs, wires, timed it... I freely admit I don't understand the carb that well. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
 
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If it is old gas put a small amount on concrete and throw a lighted match in the puddle ... I have seen that sometimes it will not light up.
 
mngreen said:
I think your fuel shut off is leaking down the line, just like mine was. I have a downdraft also. After multiple attempts at replacements/rebuilding, etc. I finally installed an in-line ball valve on the fuel line in the engine compartment between the sediment bulb and fuel pump. I left the original leaky valve intact under the tank. The ball valve gives full open flow with a 1/4 turn of the handle with zero leakage down the line.

I am very happy with this improvement and I see this as a permanent fix for my application. :)

As a test, trying running the carb dry, shut off the valve, then come back a day or so later and try to start it up with the valve still shut off. If the engine starts with the valve still closed, you have your answer! :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

i did the same thing on my car. Rust gets into the orignal valve and it will mess it up, and it will leak. i bet that is what is happening to your car. i also have a down draft carb
 
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