34 Ford Need Advice

Charlie, I totally agree on leaving the engine in the car unless there's green money in my hand...It is a lot of work to remove it. Not sure I want to go there.
 
VeryTangled said:
Hi again vickx, You are being very helpful with your information, so good-on-you.

Can I make another suggestion that should help? When you have more questions about getting something working, or where something goes, try to keep the conversation going in this thread vs. starting a new thread. It's okay if this one wanders from the original topic because it will all be right here in one place. I say this should help because it makes it easier for those following the "case" to be helpful. This is only a gentle suggestion.

Now a question/request: Try to get a number on what you think the engine has cost you so far? I don't do much pricing/buying/selling, but even I know that there are many thousands invested, and Mart makes a good point in post #13.

Don't let that slow you down from getting it started. Started and running is always better. (Take lots of videos.)
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Thank you Jeff. I was wondering if I should post new threads for further questions. Of course all here will be about the 34 Ford.

This is an odd one: Motor has 3 twos. I've noticed some flatheads running just two carburetors, with the middle one missing. Is this something to be concerned with? Middle carb putting too much fuel to the motor? When I do start it, could the engine be damaged? Or is this a fuel saver with the middle carb not giving that much more toward performance?

Carbs came with the car, but Vic did rebuild them.

I will try and find the paper work today and get back to you tonight.
 
Here's the current price on a nice looking stock 34 Tudor Sedan.
Use it as a guideline for selling yours. A buyer will definitely want to hear it run,
so you must get it running even if you sell the engine separately. Contact H and H and ask them if they have a customer who wants an engine NOW with no waiting. Perhaps they could sell it for you for a small fee. That way the customer could hear and see it run on an engine stand in the H&H shop and get detailed spec. info. Then, sell the car separately minus the price of the engine.
https://www.hotrodhotline.com/forsale/vehicles/ford/sedan/1934/listing/107022
 
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Hi vicx, no you can't damage the engine by giving it too much fuel/air from the carbs. It could do the opposite, and cause it not to start or run crappy, but damage, no.

I'm not the right guy with experience here, but some (to many) of the three-carb setups people use, don't have all three active.

Adding: reference to post #23, H&H https://www.flatheads-forever.com/ a nationally-recognized shop that does flathead work from a to z.
 
19Fordy said:
Here's the current price on a nice looking stock 34 Tudor Sedan.
Use it as a guideline for selling yours. A buyer will definitely want to hear it run,
so you must get it running even if you sell the engine separately. https://www.hotrodhotline.com/forsale/vehicles/ford/sedan/1934/listing/107022
Click to expand...

Don't think there is much to compare on pricing here, it is an OHV engine, automatic transmission, 9 inch Ford rear axle, ladder bars, A/C, all modern hot rod interior, swinging brake pedal, etc.
 
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Mr. Seery: You are 100% correct. They are not comparable. I stand (or sit) corrected.
I think my idea is still a possibility if the correct price for a 34 can be found.
 
Comparisons are always fun and good to have. A person can subtract for less fancy running gear, etc.

I found all the receipts today but they are in a huge envelope and it will take some time to isolate just the motor. LOL. All together, we have about 28K in the car. Obviously, we are not about to break even. Now to spend more money...

Mufflers: The exhaust pipes will need a tubing bender so it is looking like it has to go to a shop. That means trailering both ways, plus hourly. One guy said today it might take two or three hours, so that's only $300... here's hoping.

Carbs: I think I will order the blocking plate for the middle one just in case. That way, if it doesn't run right, we'll have it on hand. The intake valves are about 1/4" larger than stock and the cam is more radical. I didn't get details but the 3 carbs may work? I guess we'll find out.

Thanks for all the ideas and help.
 
My suggestion would be to take as many photos as possible & post them here & on the Swap site from all/every angle inside & out.
Given the engine builder's reputation, I think you may not have too much trouble selling as is, but have & post as much info as possible.
Also, detail all the remaining work necessary to get this thing road worthy. Everything
JMO
Good luck & hope things turn out well for you both
Best
Jim
 
Thanks Jim,

All the digital photos here: https://34fordtudor.shutterfly.com/pictures

The engine prints have to be scanned and I will include them asap.

Update: There are no worthwhile photos of the 34 or motor in the photo prints. There is ONE picture of the block after porting and polishing on an engine stand; that's it.

However, I did find a card from Schneider Cams: Grind 270-F, Rocker ratio 0, Lobe separation 114, degree intake Lobe to 112.

Valve Lash cold: Intake .010, Exhaust .012 Valve lift .395 Duration 270

Camlift Intake/Exhaust .395 Duration at .050* Camlift: Intake/Exhaust 234
 
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Ah, grumble. What are the blocking plates for the S 97 carbs called? I've done Offenhauser, three twos, Ford intake, etc.

Lots of plates but not what I need. I can make one...
 
Hi all, I've been offerd 18 K for the Ford. I consider this low. It's not running as the local muffler people have been very busy.
 
petehoovie said:
$18K is way way too low....
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$18,000 may be low , but if that offer is the only one on the horizon t might be the best offer you will get. Advertise the car as is without spending more money and see where it goes. The market for early cars is not what it was 5 years ago and potential buyers are getting fewer each day. You might pay someone(or find a volunteer) to put the car on e-Bay and see what you get for a high bid. Set your reserve at what you feel is a good price and see what happens. Millions of people look at e-Bay, so you have a wide audience. This will give you a good idea of the value. I hope you would get more than $18,000, but project cars are not easy to sell and the seller never recoups his investment. Keep in contact with the person who made the offer as that person may be the only game in town. If you could bump him to $20,000 I would grab it.
 
Opps! Thanks for opening my eyes. Would it be fair to ask the seller to put himself in the place of the potential buyer and ask how much he would be willing to pay for it if the car was left as is, but he could hear it run?

My brother sold his 33 Ford 4 door 10 years ago for 15K. It was a running and driving car, looked stock, had a rebuilt 59AB and a 9 inch rear, but needed paint.
 
I tend to agree with TJ's take on all this.

In a bit of a quandary because Vic is in the hospital and not in his right mind. Too many pills... If he was OK, then it would be his decision.

The muffler shops have put us off for at least two months; it's unlikely they will get a cancellation. (and some won't work on a classic car)

Thank you all for your input. If the offer is bumped up, I will probably take it. If that doesn't work, advertising is an option. Oh, and lastly, the offer came from a guy who will get the car running and allow Vic to see and drive it. That is worth something.
 
My opinion. The later motor doesn't hurt the value. It is not a show car. Most owners of 36 and older don't put the year engine in the car anyway. Most have 37 and newer engines because they have insert bearings unlike the early engines with poured babbit bearings. Are you handy at all like can change a spark plug? If so you can install your own exhaust system with the exception of front pipe to later engine. The cars have plenty of room under them unlike modern cars to install an exhaust system with ease. The exhausts are clamped together. All the eary v8 vendors sell the exhaust systems for cheap.

If you are handy beyond changing a spark plug or can read a wiring diagram you can get it running yourself. The wiring system is very easy. You would only need to wire from the ignition switch to the coil, battery to ignition switch and from the battery to the starter, 3 wires. Or you could uset the main wiring harness and hook up the minimum wires from that and the battery. It really is easy.

IMHO not running is a cheap but good bid $18k. Running and braking 18k plus the cost of the motor would be a win. Buyers for flatheads are few and far between especially a non running one.

Join the local v8 club. You could probably get a member to come help you get it going for little $$ to none. I'd do it for nothing if I didn't live 2000 miles away. Wouldn't take more than one or two Saturdays.

Quick scan of my C&G catalog is around $300 in parts for complete stock exhaust system that would have to be modified to hook up to a later engine.
 
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Yes, I am very handy and wired/rewired the entire car, plus some other things. I am somewhat limited in the strength department but my hobby is vintage travel trailer rebuilds, so am able to do pretty much anything.

The problem with the mufflers is that we don't have a pipe bender, plus they are the weld together type. I have the header to pipe connectors and two mufflers. If I had known there were complete bolt together systems, I would have suggested that. drat.
 
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