Rear axle shims- one or two?

hastingsman

hastingsman

Junior Member
The axle shims I ordered have arrived, and I'm ready to install them on the rear axles of my '29 coupe. The You-tube video I watched shows 1 shim per side being installed, but they seem so thin and the car makes a loud noise when turning (according to my rumble seat passengers, I can't hear it from the driver's seat).

So- 1 or 2 shims per side? I bought 8 all together just to have enough for now and in the future.

I don't want to pull this apart again to add a shim if I can help it.

Thanks for your input. This is my first Model A and I'm learning a lot at this forum.
 
I have to ask.

Was your axel torqued down properly? Should be 100. Might not need shims.

If you torque it to 100 and the hub is still moving, I would only add one shim.
 
WHN said:
I have to ask.

Was your axel torqued down properly? Should be 100. Might not need shims.

If you torque it to 100 and the hub is still moving, I would only add one shim.
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I removed the hub for the first time when the noise was discovered, don't know if it was torqued to 100 or not.

I don't understand the "hub is still moving" part. Do you mean a detectable wobble after proper torquing and replacing the wheel? I had a semi-difficult time getting the hub off of the axle, had to loosen the castle nut slightly, drive in circles, and still use a hub puller. The hub seemed tight on the axle, but the noise detected on making turns sounds like the description of an axle needing a shim or two.

Is there any harm in using 2 shims at a time? Would 2 shims be difficult to keep in place while replacing the hub? I'll do it one at a time if need be, but I fear damaging the axle with the hub puller I've got. So far, no damage.
 
I meant a wobble in the hub.

Before I knew better, I had a wobble in a drivers side rear wheel. I added one shim and tightened the wheel, (not knowing it needed to be torqued). Wobble came back in about 500 miles.

Now I took the time to look at the service manual on this. Removed hub and removed damaged shim. Replaced hub and correctly torqued. No wobble since.

I’m not saying you don’t need a shim, but I did have this first hand experience.

I would put it back together without a shim and re-torque it. If you still have a wobble, pull wheel using correct puller. Add a shim and see what that does. You can go up from there. I would not like to see more than a couple of shims being used.

Be careful you don’t want to damage your axel more than it might be. Enjoy.
 
What is the condition of the tapers on the axle and in the hub? I have a hub on one of my cars that the P.O. didn’t keep tight. It is unbelievably galled but I have done about 10,000 miles on it by installing 2 shims and some Loctite #243. That is the grade to take up slack in key ways and splines. It has saved me the work and $ to replace the axle, which is the ultimate repair. I figure 10K miles is evidence enough that my “get out of trouble” repair has been success.
 
Better way, if you need to use two shims make a thicker one. It's is better to use one thick shim rather then 2 or 3 thin ones, less chance of them messing up.
 
Do we ever find a stack of shims in unmolested, from the factory, cars? I think not. The use of shims in not the way it came. Stacking them until the noise stops seems to be a patch job that is not entirely safe or permanent. Many's the time we tear down and old Ford to find a pulverized remnant of a shim pack floating on a loose axle. One's good, Two's better tells all too much about what to expect. There must be more to these stories than the snapshot of circumstances. Whad'up? Fred A
 
Instead of shimming; look for bent backing plates or turn a little off the outer edge of the drum. Better yet, find out why it is rubbing. Worn ill fitting hubs, buggered up axle etc.
 
redmodelt said:
Instead of shimming; look for bent backing plates or turn a little off the outer edge of the drum. Better yet, find out why it is rubbing. Worn ill fitting hubs, buggered up axle etc.
Click to expand...

Can't argue with any of that. In my case, I know the problem is the latter. 2 shims and a slather of 243 Loctite and it's been good for many miles. If it comes loose again, I'll repeat the repair and drive on.
 
hastingsman, jack up your rear axle and support on stands. Back off your brakes and park brake so there is no drag. Transmission in neutral. Grab one of the rear wheels and push it in, then pull out. You should be able to feel some end play. Your rear axles are held out from the spider gears in your differential. The gear on the end of your axle is on a bevel and so are your spider gears. Over time your spider gears wear into the differential carrier and then there is more end play in your axle shaft as a result. I have seen a lot of differential housings worn and cause this problem. Axle shims are only a band aid if you have too much end play in your axle shaft. Yes they will help move the drum and hub away from the shoes and backing plate, but eventually you won't be able to install the cotter pin in the end of the axle shaft.
 
Update- pulled rear hubs, cleaned axles, installed 2 shims per axle. Repacked wheel bearings, installed hubs, torqued castle nuts to 100 ft-lbs each. Wheels on, ready to go. Waiting for a rumble seat passenger with good ears to listen while I take corners, which could take a while.

Hope the issue is solved. Thanks so much for all the input.
 
I would like to make a correction in regards to the end play of your rear axles. The spider gears might hold the axle out but I would think that would not be good and here is why. The back side of the spider gear would be constantly rubbing on the inside of the carrier and wearing a deep groove. The spider gear cross actually holds the axle out and the flat mating surface on the inside of the carrier that is in contact with the backside of the gear on the axle shaft holds it in. That is why the center of the cross has a flat contact are to match the center of the end of the axle. In Les Andrews red book on page 1-15 states the axle end play should be .010-.015"
 

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The only time the spider gear is turning is when you go around a corner, other then that it doesn't turn.
 
I find the best way to install shims is to place the shim/s in the hub and line them up with the slot in the hub. That way the shim can't slid inward on the axle with the possibility of damaging the seal in the axle tube.

Sofield
 
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