Installing new front suspension parts on 1956 Thunderbird

zuburg

zuburg

Senior Member
I have installed all new front suspension parts on my 1956 Thunderbird. I remember reading that you should wait until you install the engine and transmission to have the weight on the suspension before torquing the nuts to prevent wear on the bushings. Are we just talking about the bolts on the upper and lower control arms? Are there any other suspension parts that I should wait before torquing the nuts?
 
They didn't do that at the factory, and you don't have to either. I tightened them all when I put them in while the car was up on stands. Use anti seize, in 20 years, you will thank yourself.
 
I did a Mustang once, tighten every thing hanging, and the car was stuck there. Loosen the lowers once engine was in and it dropped almost 2". I would wait.
 
zuburg said:
I have installed all new front suspension parts on my 1956 Thunderbird. . . .
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zuburg, you're much more ambitious than I am. Congratulations!
I figured I didn't need new suspension parts if the car wouldn't run & drive. Now that it's running I can drive it to our favorite frame, suspension & alignment shop to let them do all the work. ;)
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If you have a spring compressor that is designed to work with the car you are working on than the spring can be removed & installed without jacking & lowering the control arms. If spring compressors don't work well then jacking and lowering the control arm is the only recourse. I had this problem with my 2nd 51 Mercury car that the engine had been removed from prior to rebuilding the front end. I used a dead man weight on the front of the frame to compress the spring for removal. Since then I found a spring compressor that allowed me to re-install the springs with no engine installed. Springs can be deadly if not carefully handled while compressed. Make sure that what ever you use will keep you safe.
 
Yes, I put in all new bushings, ball joints, tie rods front coil springs and 4 new shocks. I decide to wait till I drove it to decide if the rear springs need help. I’m sure you could have done it easily based on everything else I’ve seen you do.
 
If I wait till after the engine is installed are we just talking about the upper and lower control arms?
 
Zuburg, I have a 1955 ford stationwagon and I understand that the 55 and 56 fords and thunderbirds use almost the same parts.I need to replace the upper and lower control arm bushings on this wagon. What was the hardest part to replace? Were you able to replace the arm bushings urself or did you have someone else do it for you? I understand they have to be pressed in to the control arm. How much trouble did the coils give you to remove them? I am tempting to do it myself since I now have time to do it but if its a big job requiring special tools,I must just let the front end guy do it.
Thanks for your response,
Mando
 
I redid the front end on my 54 Ford (same as 55/56 and early birds). I removed the upper and lower arms, got the parts and brought them too a local front end shop and had them remove and replace the bushings as I didn't have any kind of press.
 
My lower control arm bushings are ok,just the upper ones have to be replaced. I talked to a guy that has a front end repair shop here in town and told him about replacing the upper control bushings.He said he can do the whole job or if I wanted to save some money for me to remove the arms and bring them in to him and he would press the new ones in. The only thing that worries me is the coil springs.Do I have to remove them to be able to remove the upper arms or can I take it out without taking the spring out.I've heard horror stories about guys trying to remove the springs and than hurting themselves in the process.If its too dangerous I will just let the guy do the whole thing. I would like to do it myself if possible cause I like to stay busy.
Do any of you have any info on the removal of the upper control arms for this wagon/
I am going to assume that wagons and cars of the same year are the same.
Thanks for all your help.
Mando
 
poolplayer1 said:
My lower control arm bushings are ok,just the upper ones have to be replaced. I talked to a guy that has a front end repair shop here in town and told him about replacing the upper control bushings. He said he can do the whole job or if I wanted to save some money for me to remove the arms and bring them in to him and he would press the new ones in.

The only thing that worries me is the coil springs
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They are something to worry about-

REFERRING URL - https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=243711
 
I have been trying to get this front end repaired for a few years and everytime I get ready to do it, eighter me or my wife gets sick. We are both doing better now so hopefully this time I can get it done.I was hoping to do it myself but I better be safe and have it done.my radiator is still not back.The guy said he ran into some problems with the core. Hoping to get it back soon. After that and if it runs ok without shutting down in the middle of the road,I will than take it in for the front end repairs.
That's about all I need to have it all done.This last time I have been working on it for about 3 years.I've had it for a long time.
Mando
 
poolplayer1 said:
I have been trying to get this front end repaired for a few years and everytime I get ready to do it, eighter me or my wife gets sick. We are both doing better now so hopefully this time I can get it done.I was hoping to do it myself but I better be safe and have it done.my radiator is still not back.The guy said he ran into some problems with the core. Hoping to get it back soon. After that and if it runs ok without shutting down in the middle of the road,I will than take it in for the front end repairs.
That's about all I need to have it all done.This last time I have been working on it for about 3 years.I've had it for a long time.
Mando
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Now available with stock style tanks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1956-...nkw=1956+Thunderbird+radiator&_from=R40&rt=nc
 
poolplayer1 said:
I have been trying to get this front end repaired for a few years and everytime I get ready to do it, eighter me or my wife gets sick. We are both doing better now so hopefully this time I can get it done.I was hoping to do it myself but I better be safe and have it done.
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:(

...i feel bad...

If you do it yourself, it can be very satisfying. It is a learning experience, along with a few new words you may have never used before.

Here is a tutorial video that will give you an idea of how to use a spring compressor (one style). Once you have everything apart and on the shop floor you can decide what needs to be replaced or not. Did you see in your SHOP MANUAL the procedure for checking ball joints? You want to do this before dis-assembly.

Just make sure the tool is quality and not CHINESEIUM.

VIDEO- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrrtazxg2eg
 
If your garage is equipped with a floor jack and stands, you don't need a spring compressor. Just a pickle fork and a BIG hammer. Loosen the upper ball joint nut but do not remove. With the car on stands, jack up the front under the A arm to just lift the car clear of the stand. Loosen the ball joint with the pickle fork, then remove the nut, and slowly lower the car. The suspension will move out, and the spring is captured while it expands, and is not a threat. Not all cars are so easy and safe.
 
Then on to replacing bushings. If you have a big vice mounted on a solid bench, you can press out and install bushings with two short pieces of pipe to hold while pressing. Three hands make this much easier. The sizes of pipe become obvious after you get this far. It has been several years and I just don't remember.
 
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Ah, the OLDE HEAT AND BEAT METHOD.

If you do decide to separate the ball joint in this fashion, be sure to have a new boot on hand.

EDIT- (Fr. For I Forgot)

Removing springs/control arms without engine weight can present additional problems. Consider use of safety chain wrapped around the spring(s).

EDIT #2-

I was just reading though the original thread and came across this post-

I usually do 1 side at a time, leave the car on a floor jack under the lower arm. The upper ball joint has to be disconnected.
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WHAT IF ...

The jack and/or cylinder fails? How quickly can you move across a concrete floor being chased by a flying spring ...
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