40/41 pickup bed build

[40fordpu]

Looking for some advice on the bed build for a 40/41 pickup. Attached are some pictures. Working with a NCT bed kit all new metal.

Picture one. Placement of stake pocket braces. Are they faced the right way? Opening toward inside of bed?. Reason I ask is after installing to bedside, alignment holes were a bear to align and fit 10-24 screws.

Rest of pictures - looking at rear crossmember to stake pocket. See that gap? According to instruction, there will need to be "wiggle room" for squaring be however that seems excessive. I would image curves should align (last picture)??? Want to get this right before setting rivets on side rail to side of bed.

Thanks for your help.

 

[40fordpu]

Instructions after installing the front panel are as follows - further along in process.

It is time to work on the backside of the bed. You will need a large carpenters square and a couple of clamps. Next you need to tap the outer lip of the rear crossmember so that it is flush with the back edge of the bedside and clamp it there so you can tack weld it. Same on the other side. Make sure the inside of the bed is 46 inches.

This is all good. picture 2 showing the cross member to back edge of bedside. Tack it. But what about the curve of the bottom of the two pieces not lining up. Should they? Do they get welded? Anyone got finished pics of a stock bed of this area? Advice/opinion? Thanks

 

[Kube]

Instructions after installing the front panel are as follows - further along in process.

It is time to work on the backside of the bed. You will need a large carpenters square and a couple of clamps. Next you need to tap the outer lip of the rear crossmember so that it is flush with the back edge of the bedside and clamp it there so you can tack weld it. Same on the other side. Make sure the inside of the bed is 46 inches.

This is all good. picture 2 showing the cross member to back edge of bedside. Tack it. But what about the curve of the bottom of the two pieces not lining up. Should they? Do they get welded? Anyone got finished pics of a stock bed of this area? Advice/opinion? Thanks

I'm working on sizing detailed photos for you so that I can post them. I'm not a computer guru at all

The curves should match - yes.

That advice in the instructions about using a large carpenter's square is okay at best. I suggest you measure diagonally.

 

[rotorwrench]

Yes, a square opening is just that, even and same distances on all sides including diagonally. Rectangle is what we are working with but I think you get the drift. A carpenters square will get you close but still measure however many times it takes. I would want all visible fit lines to blend in smoothly. If they don't, I'd find a way to get it done anyway by hook or by crook.

I'm not sure what method you are going to use to tack weld stuff but make them small so they can be cut free again and smoothed over if needed. I use an aircraft OA torch because it's easy to handle and the filler I use is soft (RG45). Baling wire works too but it's dirty compared to clean new weld filler wire. If fits are tight, filler may not be needed at all. Weld through primer isn't a bad idea but you can just clean the spot to be tacked. I use #40 clecos or side jaws to hold overlapping sheets the hole is small and can easily be filled. Magnets and vise grip clamps work well as long as there is access for easy use of them.

I've never put a bed kit together but I can imagine all the things that can be off. NCT & Mack Hils generally have or had good stuff but sh!t happens. Tweek, heat & bend, cut & reweld, and do what ever is necessary to get the fit you want while still staying within the proper dimensions required.

 

[Kube]

I hate to rain on your parade but please don't expect all of these reproduction pieces to fit together nicely without a lot of measuring and subsequent necessary modifications.
My hope is that by telling you this and you realizing the cold reality... you'll be more prepared mentally as to what lies ahead.

Yes, the rear pocket radius should match that rear cross over "valance" very nicely. You are now finding as I did, that a lot of work is (was, in my case) necessary to get these matched nicely. Authentically these were welded and lead filled at the seams. I chose to weld mine completely and grind back. Ultimately, mine matched beautifully.

Don't count on the holes in the bed rail aligning to the bed itself.

A couple of things that may be worth mentioning now vs. later (too late):
* If you installing a rear bumper, the tail lamps were mounted to the rear of the rearmost pocket(s). You'll need to install captured (caged) nuts for this purpose. Trucks w/o a rear bumper utilized a different lamp bracket. They were fastened to the front of the rearmost pocket(s).
* I'd strongly suggest you (only) tack the sub-rail together and tack (only) the bed, sides, pockets, etc. Then, fit all of it to your frame prior to any final welding. I will almost guarantee you'll need to tweak things so they fit properly. You may find you will need to shim the wooden cross braces as well.

I'm proud to say I got my bed and sub-rail assembly to fit as perfectly to my frame as I believe humanly possible. I am at the same time embarrassed to admit to just how many hours I'd spent getting that end result.

Oh, be certain to fit the tail gate before welding too.

Pictures are coming … I promise.

 

[40fordpu]

Part of my assumption about buying the "best" reproduction bed kit at top dollar is that they would preassemble the kit and make sure that when you align the "alignment screws" that the panels would be square - square enough at least. How precise was the ford factory in 1940??? Before inserting rivets would it be best to right side the bed and assemble on the frame???.

I am finding that parts of the bedside and the stake pockets are not of equal measurements. The fact that they aren't identical would require me to drill out each spot weld and reposition. Even the front panel is a 1/4" off from bottom of bedside to bottom of front panel. Picture to follow.

 

[40fordpu]

Looks like my last response came at the same time yours did. Appreciate it.

 

[Kube]

Part of my assumption about buying the "best" reproduction bed kit at top dollar is that they would preassemble the kit and make sure that when you align the "alignment screws" that the panels would be square - square enough at least. How precise was the ford factory in 1940??? Before inserting rivets would it be best to right side the bed and assemble on the frame???.

I am finding that parts of the bedside and the stake pockets are not of equal measurements. The fact that they aren't identical would require me to drill out each spot weld and reposition. Even the front panel is a 1/4" off from bottom of bedside to bottom of front panel. Picture to follow.

You are finding pretty much what I did.
I strongly advise (again) that you fit everything, the complete bed, tail gate and sub-rail assembly to the frame before welding anything permanently.
If I recall correctly, all of the spot welds needed to be repositioned.

Factory precision? Pretty good actually as Ford used jigs and fixtures along the assembly line. No, they were not building high dollar cars but still, they did maintain decent "quality control". You can bet the radii met very well at the rear valance / pockets.

 

[Kube]

I'm still learning how to resize photos. Here's a few that may help.

 

[40fordpu]

Very helpful thank you!!! So the rear crossmember to beside post were welded all the way around underneath correct? Hard to tell by that second picture.

 

[Kube]

Very helpful thank you!!! So the rear crossmember to beside post were welded all the way around underneath correct? Hard to tell by that second picture.

I'm not certain how the factory made this joint (re) welding. They did lead fill the seam, I welded it completely and finished it from that point.
Oh, yes, all the way around...