Need Rewiring Help

Thanks to fordor41 and Drbrown I was able to remove the headlight switch. I had the gauge panel out and was able to see the top of the headlight switch and the small slot to insert the screwdriver. I don't know if I could have removed it without being able to see the top of the switch. Thanks again

I have almost all of the wire under the dash installed, waiting for new 6 volt light bulbs to come.

I am having a time with the heater wiring. I have the harness that leads to the heater motor from the small control panel to the right of the steering wheel (where the pull knob for the defroster is). I have no wiring diagram or wiring harness that shows how to connect the 2 heater switches that are on the left side of the steering wheel to the small panel on the right side. I have searched the forum for information on this but no results as yet. Anyone familiar with this?
 
I have had the heater switch explained to me and have slept since then. It has provision for reversing the motor for defrost. There was a posting that had a 40 switch which is sort of similar but not the same. Maybe someone will post the correct diagram this time for 46-8.
 
Thanks to fordor41 and Drbrown I was able to remove the headlight switch. I had the gauge panel out and was able to see the top of the headlight switch and the small slot to insert the screwdriver. I don't know if I could have removed it without being able to see the top of the switch. Thanks again

I have almost all of the wire under the dash installed, waiting for new 6 volt light bulbs to come.

I am having a time with the heater wiring. I have the harness that leads to the heater motor from the small control panel to the right of the steering wheel (where the pull knob for the defroster is). I have no wiring diagram or wiring harness that shows how to connect the 2 heater switches that are on the left side of the steering wheel to the small panel on the right side. I have searched the forum for information on this but no results as yet. Anyone familiar with this?

confused; 2 heater switches on the left? never seen that must have been
added on in the past or a under the seat heater?
 
confused; 2 heater switches on the left? never seen that must have been
added on in the past or a under the seat heater?

I am also confused. I wonder if there would be anything about this in service bulletins? Or if someone with a 46-48 has these also?
 
Darrell: I am in the process of installing new wires in all of my 48. My dash is out and I wouldn't attempt to do it otherwise. My ignition switch,original column type, is also out and I am trying to determine which post is power, accessories and ignition. Also how does it come apart so it can be re-installed in the column once the dash is back in? All help would be much appreciated. Regards Frank
 
Darrell: I am in the process of installing new wires in all of my 48. My dash is out and I wouldn't attempt to do it otherwise. My ignition switch,original column type, is also out and I am trying to determine which post is power, accessories and ignition. Also how does it come apart so it can be re-installed in the column once the dash is back in? All help would be much appreciated. Regards Frank

My ignition switch is mounted in the dash and I don't have the column lock. My switch was marked at the base of each post. I would like to know how the little stainless bezel on the ignition switch attaches. It was never on tight since I have owned the car.

I did mine lying on my back. I did remove the gauge panel, ignition switch and light switch though. It is all back together under the dash except for the heater which I had to order some connections for. I am now working on the lights. I had to buy other stuff for the tail and parking lights as they suffered from lots of rust and I didn't want to reuse them. Good luck on your project.
 
I had to stop on the wiring job due to other things that needed my attention. I am back at it again now with mixed results.

The lights work well and the horn never sounded this loud before so I am good with that. However when I turn the ignition switch on there is no movement on battery gauge to indicate any draw at all. The starter engages and the engine turns over but doesn't want to fire. The only gauge that moves is the temp which goes to cold immediately. (gas gauge not connected yet) When the lights are turned on the battery gauge shows no drop either. I have checked and rechecked my wiring diagram and the color coded directions.

Any suggestions on what I am missing?
 
Couple of questions, Is the yellow wire running through the loop on the ammeter and
have you tried running a hot wire directly to the coil just to see if it will fire??


Bob
 
I did check for spark and it was good. It has not run since January so I gave it a shot of starting fluid and off she went, running nicely. The battery gauge is still not working though and the yellow wire is running through the loop. Should I change direction on the yellow wire?

Now off to see if I can hook up the turn signals.
 
The induction meters were good units but they can wear out like anything else. The only other thing I could figure is that there are two big yellow wires that go to the bus board. The one that comes from the battery connection at the starter relay is the one that goes through the loop on the back of the induction meter then on to the bus. The one from the voltage regulator Bat terminal goes direct to the bus board. I don't know if it's even possible to mix them up but I figured I'd mention it anyway. If it no worky then it no good.
 
And to add to rotorwrench, reversing the wire should not make any difference as far as showing that the gauge is working. Reversed polarity would just deflect the needle in the wrong direction.
 
Thanks guys for the gauge info. I did run the wire in the other direction but it made no difference. I am wondering why it worked with the old wiring harness but not this new one.
Does someone offer a 6 volt battery gauge that will work? I'd like to know what the system is doing or not doing.
 
Would this kind work, the back is different?
 

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wow; Watch out for '47-48 changes. Tyee sent me three secmatics and none matched my Nov '47 manufactured '48 Canadian Merc. Totally odd car newc
 
wow; Watch out for '47-48 changes. Tyee sent me three secmatics and none matched my Nov '47 manufactured '48 Canadian Merc. Totally odd car newc

This 48 is Canadian too, I have found some differences. New wiring harnesses did OK though.
 
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