Alloy radiators, what's your experience?

dumb person

dumb person

Well-known member
Having read through the previous threads from the last 4 years on those alloy radiators from china i see they often don't fit well, and the filler is in the wrong place.
The car I was intending to fit it to doesn't really warrant a Bergs or brassworks one, and the hose fittings would need to be be changed as the original (metal fatigued and very leaky orig'28 rad') it's fitted with now has them modified for the special cylinder head. Would you want to ruin/modify a new $2,500 bergs rad'?

Probably not.



This one looks like it'd fit
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/aluminum-radiator-alloy-radiator-for-Ford-model-A-1928-1929-New-Improved/32816094643.html


Needs some holes drilled and filler neck may need to be changed? It's twice the price of a similar one with the chevy pattern hoses (which i'd have to change to original-ish spec' if i bought one!) and might need some gussets to beef it up for the usage i'd intend for it.. Would you risk it?

Some of you have similar ones on driver spec' cars. Please tell how they're holding up thus far.
 
Look at it this way, worst thing is you're out $338. Use a thin dusting of black radiator paint on it and it'll look fine. Aluminum is easy enough to work with if you need to weld on tabs/ change position etc. Let us know how it works out.
 
I work on lots of Model A's in the Minnesota area...I have experience in replacing radiators.
I just checked the Snyder's catalog; Their 1928-29 3-row radiator is sold for $530.00.
I usually purchase their heavy duty radiator for $585.00 for customers that report an over-heating problem. The radiators from Snyder's fit quite well.

JMO: I think you may be buying lots of unknown problems with the aluminum one and only saving $200 for the rather large risk.
Good Day!

www.durableperformance.net
 
A friend gave me 5 pull out 28/29 radiators,I want to gain some rebuilding skills..turned out I was able to return 3 of them to service by repeatedly back flushing them with and industrial hot water pressure washer with chemical degreaser..water pump grease is a big reason radiator clog,and are replaced.My point is look for used 'bad' ones if you can get access to ,or pay someone to back flush them..cheaper than those chinese ones..
 
My brain works this way. Every thing we fab in this shop we have the real deal for a
mock up. And yes we bought one for a 30/31 so far off its pathetic. Sits too high
bottom too wide unless the chassis is relieved. To be easy, or wouldn't you think they
would simply measure the real radiator? Oh yeh they can not read inches they do that
stupid metric stuff.............. ugg
 
Here is the thing about aluminum radiators. They carrode. So, you say, do all radiators. I say, aluminum carrodes much faster due to electrolysis. But think about the thickness of the tubes. Those cannot be repaired on an aluminum radiator. I've seen aluminum that is completely eaten through 1/2" thickness in only a few years, from electrolysis. What chance do those thin tubes have if hit wit corrosion?

But there are lots of brass radiators running around that came on original cars. So, do you want a 5-10 year radiator, or do you want a 100 year plus radiator.

All that said, there are cases where they can cool better than a brass one. Several of the GMC motorhome guys use one because they say they cool better than brass, and you see them used in many hot rods without fast failures. And, I have one in one of my Studebakers, that has worked fine for about 8 years now. I just don't think a model A is the best application for one.

If you do run an aluminum radiators, don't use straight water, be sure whatever you put in it has a corrosion inhibitor. Just my opinion, nothing more.
 
big job said:
Oh yeh they can not read inches they do that
stupid metric stuff.............. ugg
Click to expand...

I agree that we are at an age where being taught inches, we are ignorant of the metric measurements, so uncomfortable with that system. However, it's our ignorance of the system that makes it "stupid", it is actually a far superior system. I'm told that if you force yourself to use nothing but metric for a month or two, you will quickly adapt. I'm too lazy I guess, as I'm stuck in never never land on metric vs good old inches. I'll wait until lumber changes, then force myself.
 
Re: Alloy radiators, what's your experience? Distilled water is best.

Whether you decide to use water or anti freeze my experience is that Hard water with minerals in it is BAD news for radiator tubes clogging with calcium deposits.

Personally I insist on Anti freeze. I have seen too many cracked blocks and water jackets worn so thin from being rusted out from the inside. But is another topic.

I knew a guy who had two restored cars with new insert engines with no anti freeze. He died and wife sold cars to guy in Canada. The shipping company was storm delayed 3 or 4 days in a snowstorm in the mountains and both blocks and Snyder heads were cracked. She felt guilty enough to refund the buyer $8000 for two engines and two new "blown out" radiators.

I drove over 600,000 miles for the company with water cooled cars of various makes. Not counting 140,000 with air cooled VWs.

Distilled water (NOT deionized) is best and cheap to mix with anti freezes. No more calcium clogged tubes.

"And that is the rest of the story ..."
 
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Re: Alloy radiators, what's your experience? Hard water is NOT our friend.

Benson said:
Whether you decide to use water or anti freeze my experience is that Hard water with minerals in it is BAD news for radiator tubes clogging with calcium deposits.

Personally I insist on Anti freeze. I have seen too many cracked blocks and water jackets worn so thin from being rusted out from the inside. But is another topic.

I knew a guy who had two restored cars with new insert engines with no anti freeze. He died and wife sold cars to guy in Canada. The shipping company was storm delayed 3 or 4 days and both blocks and Snyder heads were cracked. She felt guilty enough to refund the buyer $8000 for two engines and two new "blown out" radiators.

I drove over 600,000 miles for the company with water cooled cars of various makes. Not counting 140,000 with air cooled VWs.

Distilled water (NOT deionized) is best and cheap to mix with anti freezes. No more calcium clogged tubes.

"And that is the rest of the story ..."
Click to expand...

I run natures antifreeze in my '67 type 1..thats one thing with an early Vw,you never run out of coolant..
 
Good anti freeze would take care of the corrosion problem. Please note the original posters location, it's not like there are good radiators sitting around. Also, shipping comes into play. The replacement radiator in my Dodge with cast iron block was aluminum and it was going strong more then 8 years after I put it in and all I ever used the the regular green anti-freeze 50/50 mix.
 
What alloy of aluminum is the radiator made of? If the radiator needs to be reworked you'll want to know this.
 
I have an alloy radiator in my Model A made in the States by Bryce Thomas Radiators and supposedly correct for a Model A. The thread and size of the filler neck was wrong and luckily I had a decrepit original radiator from which I removed the filler neck and bonded it into the alloy radiator.
The bottom mounting plates were incorrectly located and had to be relocated and the radiator shell mounting brackets were borderline for drilling holes to mount the shell.
So, all in all, not very satisfactory, but being 12,000 miles away makes it uneconomical to return it.
Otherwise, the alloy fins are very flimsy and easily marked or displaced so I have a stone guard over the front which I'd rather not have.
It does it's job efficiently but after the cost of the improvements it may have been cheaper to re-core an original or buy a brass one.
However, it is on a speedster and I was interested in reducing weight wherever possible. I'm running Red Line Water Wetter in the hope of eliminating corrosion (Alloy head too)
 
Radiators made from "original" types of metals, usually work the best. Sorta' like PNEUMATIC Tires & Train Wheels & Tracks. They've been UNCHANGED, forever, but they still work QUITE GOOD!
Bill W.
 
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