Proper Torque Sequence Frame to Body?

[Jwawhite]

56 2 door wagon.
I have the shop manual that portrays location of all the bolts, nuts, cushions and washers. The Torque range number is 15 to 27?, need to review this. But no sequence.
Should I loosen all first?
I'm thinking torque middle of body in x pattern towards high side of Torque value and then the same for each end of frame outwards.
I checked the Torque value at the point just behind the front wheels and found them to be below the low value Torque number.
Opinions anyone?

 

[KULTULZ]

56 2 door wagon.

I have the shop manual that portrays location of all the bolts, nuts, cushions and washers. The Torque range number is 15 to 27?, need to review this. But no sequence.

Should I loosen all first?

I'm thinking torque middle of body in x pattern towards high side of Torque value and then the same for each end of frame outwards.

I checked the Torque value at the point just behind the front wheels and found them to be below the low value Torque number.

Opinions anyone?

Your reasoning sounds correct to me. Loosening all fasteners would enable the body to "relax" on the frame mounts, hopefully eliminating any stress/binding before re-torquing. This would also allow you to check all insulators and hardware. The tightening sequence also sounds correct as you would be spreading the stress equally as in a head gasket tightening sequence.

 

[Ole Don]

The rubber will relax and cause low torque readings. This was a problem in the plant where I worked. We had to check torque ASAP when the fastener was run down. I would start near the cowl, then go back checking the door fit as I went.

 

[miker98038]

When I put the 235/60 15’s on the back of the bird I found the left rear was shaving rubber on a left turn. Careful checking showed the body off center on the frame and rear axle. I loosened all the body bolts, but I had to lift the body at the rear, and use a bottle jack to move it over. It wasn’t quite that simple, there were a lot of braces involved. But I don’t think loosening the bolts will let the body move if it’s been there a while. New mounting, probably. Retorquing after you change the mounts, probably for sure.

 

[Jwawhite]

Thanks guys!

This was a body off restoration, rubber looks new.

The idea of checking body position is intriguing, will look the car over left vs right side and try to determine if body is equidistant on frame.

Should I Torque to high side of range? Cushions are probably seated since the restoration. Or would that just transfer more vibration to compartment? Split the difference?

 

[Ole Don]

Use anti seize on the bolt threads, and one or two drops of oil under the bolt head. Then split the difference. That will be far better than the factory ever did. Tire fit:, most 54 and 55 sedans have trouble R & R the RR tire. I had to use a small bottle jack to jack the axle down to get the tire off. Standard sized tire on an unlowered car should give no trouble.

 

[Jwawhite]

I do know my RR tire is closer to the body for the swivel bar on the fender skirt just touches the tire....can't remember which way it touches, on R or L turns but I hear it. Minor minor scrape on tire wall at a protrusion/design.
But, another issue is the tubes off the differential were cut to fit the new 8" Spicer. I don't know if it was sized to the original differential or not. Perhaps I should leave the body position on frame alone. I don't use the fender skirts that often. I will give it a gander when the time comes.

 

[Jwawhite]

Got a chance to get under car today, I can't find bolt #7 as outlined on page 315, top, of the shop manual. It appears the bolt travels through the frame At the penultimate crossmember. Is it a line up mark?

I don't see any shims...perhaps removing the bolts I may see areas that need shims? The doors are fine except the tops are off the body allowing wind and water in.

Bolts 1-7 hold the cab on while 8-9 are the spare tire compartment and end of frame.

Cowl area 1-3

Is the cowl the most important place to start cross torquing or should I just work off 1-6 in a cross Torque like wheels headgaskets, etc?

 

[KULTULZ]

Is the cowl the most important place to start cross torquing or should I just work off 1-6 in a cross Torque like wheels headgaskets, etc?

Unless there is someone here that worked directly on assembly, the correct sequence(s) most likely will be found in the BODY ASSEMBLY MANUAL.