Holley 94 rebuild questions

G

grovesmr

Senior Member
Rebuilding two carbs, one for grandpa's 35, the other or my 36 pickup.

The 35 has a 59ab, after pulling from long time storage, replace most of the 39 brakes and ignition. Had an issue with "vapor lock" but I think that may be due to the fact that a gasket didn't exist at the power valve. So on to my question, isthe ball bearing under the pump discharge nozzle correct, or should I replace it with a needle I pulled from a spare core.

Next question, for my 36, I cleaned this up a good while back and finally getting to gaskets ECT... Rear side of bowl section. What is that hole for?
 

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All 94's that I have seen lately have the needle valve in that hole, though there is a memory rattling around in the back of my mind that seems to tell me that the ball bearing may be correct also. I'm sure one of the real gurus will be on here shortly with a definitive answer. The "hole" in the second picture is the vacuum port for a "Load-a-Matic" distributor as used in '49 and later vehicles. It should be plugged for your application, unless you have an 8BA type engine with a stock "Load-a-Matic" distributor in your vehicle.
 
The needle valve, if all metal, should work well. Rubber or fiber tipped needles will not function well with the gasoline we have today.

The hole in the back of the second carb is for the Loadamatic ignition system. Just plug it and you're good to go. One thing, though, you didn't say what engine is in your '36: If it is a 21 stud, it will likely have the original intake manifold, which is wrong for any 94 carb. Easy to spot the right/wrong manifold: For the Stromberg, the manifold will have an exhaust heat riser hole at the top gasket surface, while the correct manifold for a 94 will not have this hole. If running the manifold with the hole, you can install a spacer between manifold and carb, which will not have the hole, and help keep the carb cool.
 
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ford38v8 said:
The needle valve, if all metal, should work well. Rubber or fiber tipped needles will not function well with the gasoline we have today.

The hole in the back of the second carb is for Loadamatic transmission. Just plug it and you're good to go. One thing, though, you didn't say what engine is in your '36: If it is a 21 stud, it will likely have the original intake manifold, which is wrong for any 94 carb. Easy to spot the right/wrong manifold: For the Stromberg, the manifold will have an exhaust heat riser hole at the top gasket surface, while the correct manifold for a 94 will not have this hole. If running the manifold with the hole, you can install a spacer between manifold and carb, which will not have the hole, and help keep the carb cool.
Click to expand...

36 is getting an 8ba. It was missing a few things, but I think you answered my question with it going to the distributor
 
tubman said:
All 94's that I have seen lately have the needle valve in that hole, though there is a memory rattling around in the back of my mind that seems to tell me that the ball bearing may be correct also. I'm sure one of the real gurus will be on here shortly with a definitive answer. The "hole" in the second picture is the vacuum port for a "Load-a-Matic" distributor as used in '49 and later vehicles. It should be plugged for your application, unless you have an 8BA type engine with a stock "Load-a-Matic" distributor in your vehicle.
Click to expand...

:) I don't think I could have made a better definitely vague answer myself (regarding the ball/needle)
 
gov,
The pointed brass 'pin' with 4 flatted sides is the correct item
to go into the well beneath the squirter. Be sure to give it a light tap so
it sort of seats in the well. It must move freely but when all the way down it
must seal.
Charlie ny
 
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"Charlie NY" - I know you are the real expert on these, so I'll take this opportunity to try to get you to clear up a few things for me. First of all, are you saying that there have been instances where a ball bearing is used rather than a needle valve under the "squirters"? Also, I am familiar with the ball bearing in the bottom of the accelerator pump well (which doesn't seem to be what the O/P was asking in his original post). Although it is hard to gauge sizes in photos like this, the one in the guys hand seems to be larger than the one in the well and would seem to fit the hole under the "squirters".
 
tubman said:
"Charlie NY" - I know you are the real expert on these, so I'll take this opportunity to try to get you to clear up a few things for me. First of all, are you saying that there have been instances where a ball bearing is used rather than a needle valve under the "squirters"? Also, I am familiar with the ball bearing in the bottom of the accelerator pump well (which doesn't seem to be what the O/P was asking in his original post). Although it is hard to gauge sizes in photos like this, the one in the guys hand seems to be larger than the one in the well and would seem to fit the hole under the "squirters".
Click to expand...

The one in my hand... While I don't have a BB around to check, and it's been a long time since I've used an air rifle... I think what was there is very similar in size, to the best of my recognition. It was significantly larger than that of the ball under the pump plunger.

My best guess was a shade tree substitution that may have worked sufficiently well enough if a part wasn't available. I mean, I got her running again, and she didn't want to quit once I worked out the ignition. But the hot starts didn't want to happen, possibly the missing power valve gasket, or the bad coil I had. I didn't expect the ball here, didn't know if that was another problem. I closed up the carb with the needle subbed in.
 
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